Choose the railway over the runway with Cox & Kings

When it comes to immersing yourself in the beauty of your surroundings, there really is no better way to travel than by rail. From the magnificent rolling hills of Andalucía to the jaw-dropping landscape of Mexico’s Copper Canyon, Cox & Kings are experts in train travel. They even offer ‘no-fly’ routes from the UK across Europe to choose from. These sought-after journeys are just the start…

Explore India on the Maharajas’ Express

Credit: Maharajas Express

Fancy a luxury tour of Northern India, taking in the Golden Triangle and beyond? Then this is the rail journey for you. After boarding the Maharajas’ Express, your first stop will be Agra, where you can soak up the splendour of the Taj Mahal. Journey onto Ranthambore and enjoy an open-top safari drive around the world-famous national park – home to tigers, sambar deer, and leopards. After wildlife spotting, your next stop is Jaipur, and the rugged red sandstone of the magnificent Amber Fort. Enjoy a sumptuous dinner at the 19th-century Rambagh Palace Hotel, before journeying onto the golden dunes of Bikaner. Drink in the desert landscape from your seat, then explore the 16th-century royal fortress of Junagarh Fort. Sip a sundowner overlooking the undulating desert, before the train continues to the ‘Blue City’ of Jodhpur, home to the hilltop fortress of Mehrangarh. Board the train once more for Udaipur and discover the gleaming City Palace. What better place to finish your adventure than the bustling city of Mumbai? Here, you can raise a toast to a truly unforgettable rail journey.

Hop aboard South America’s luxury sleeper train

Credit: Cox & Kings

Discover the wonders of Peru in ultimate style aboard South America’s only luxury sleeper train. Beginning with a tour of Lima’s colonial centre, continue to the Sacred Valley, and visit the breathtaking Inca fortress of Ollantaytambo. Hop aboard the Vistadome train to Machu Picchu and marvel at the Andes mountains from the comfort of your seat, before exploring the spectacular ruins. From here, you will board the Belmond Andean Explorer train, an iconic rail journey traversing the Andes from Cusco. Enjoy lunch as you pass high Andean peaks, mountain streams and cultivated terraces. Wake up to spectacular sunrise scenes over sparkling Lake Titicaca, before taking in the floating Uros reed islands and Taquile. Your journey continues onto Lake Lagunillas, where you can soak up the spellbinding landscape, before arriving at your final stop, the ‘white city’ of Arequipa. Framed by three volcanoes, it is bursting with baroque buildings made of white volcanic stone – the perfect spot to stop and reflect on your South American adventure.

See Andalucía from the rails

Credit: Shutterstock

Always dreamed of experiencing Andalucía’s rolling mountains, Moorish architecture, and ancient cities by rail? This spectacular journey takes in all three major cities of this sought-after Spanish region, using Spain’s efficient AVI rail service. Your journey begins in Cordoba, where you will explore ancient monuments including the spectacular UNESCO-listed Mezquita mosque, before continuing onto sun-soaked Seville. Take a stroll along the orange-tree lined streets, which are bursting with opulent 16th-century buildings and narrow medieval avenues. Stop off at one of the many tapas bars and feast on garlic prawns and fried squid while enjoying a flamenco show, before hopping aboard the train once more for Granada. Situated in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, this city is home to the exquisite Alhambra Palace complex. Discover the spectacular Granada Cathedral or spend the day soaking up the sunshine at one of the city’s many beaches. Drink in the last of those jaw-dropping views on the journey to Malaga, the final stop of your Spanish adventure.

Chug through Mexico’s Copper Canyon

Credit: Shutterstock

Ready for the rail journey of a lifetime, journeying through some of the most dramatic scenery the world has to offer? Look no further than Mexico’s Copper Canyon route, which combines coastal scenes with the Baja Peninsula’s spectacular desert. Located in the middle of the Sierra Madre mountains, the canyon system is one of Mexico’s historic wonders. Breathe in the scent as you explore the pine forests surrounding Lake Arareco, before visiting the world-famous Tarahumara caves. From here, hop aboard the world-famous Chihuahua Pacific Express train and descend directly through the Sierra Madre mountains. Take in iconic views of towering canyons and lush forests as you wind your way through this spectacular landscape to El Fuerte, where you will travel onto your next destination, La Paz. Enjoy a boat ride to Espiritu Santo Island, where you can spot sea lions and snorkel in crystal-clear waters. Your journey ends in style along the coastal shores of the Baja peninsula. Here, you can take your pick from countless pristine beaches and turquoise waters.

Enjoy a panoramic rail journey with Rovos Rail

Credit: Rovos Rail Tours

Ever wondered what it’s like to go to bed with views of the largest wildlife park in Zimbabwe outside your window, and wake up to the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls? This panoramic rail journey takes in a magnificent four countries, so you can marvel at the ever-changing landscape as you journey through South Africa, Mozambique, Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) and Zimbabwe aboard Rovos Rail. Depart Pretoria and explore the historic and scenic delights of the Panorama Route. Enjoy some of the most memorable wildlife experiences on the planet at Kruger National Park and spot the ‘Big Five’ on a wildlife drive. Wake up in Mozambique and tour the colourful capital city of Maputo, before hopping aboard the train for afternoon tea. Chug into Eswatini for an insight into Swazi artisan traditions, then back into South Africa for wildlife watching in the Kapama Game Reserve. Journey on to Zimbabwe to visit the Great Zimbabwe Monument and spend three days exploring the scenic and wildlife-rich national parks. Continue onto the magnificent Victoria Falls and swap rail for river, as you set sail on a sunset cruise along the Zambezi and toast the rail adventure of a lifetime.

Roll through the Balkans by train

Credit: Unsplash

Experience the beauty of the Balkans onboard this tailor-made journey. Your adventure begins in Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia-Herzegovina. Nestled among dramatic peaks, this vibrant city is home to Bascarsija Square, where historic buildings frame a wooden Ottoman-era fountain. Explore the ancient wonders, including Vijećnica, the impressive city hall, before travelling in style to Mostar. Discover one of Europe’s most scenic rail journeys as you take in mountains and valleys, as well as the sparkling turquoise waters of the Neretva River. Explore the UNESCO-listed old town of Mostar and its iconic Old Bridge, before sampling some of the region’s finest wines on a tour of Herzegovina’s sun-kissed southern vineyards. Board the train once more and continue to the Dalmatian city of Split in Croatia. Stroll through the enchanting Roman old town, discover the magnificent Diocletian’s Palace, and enjoy a coffee on the sun-soaked promenade. Spend the final day of your adventure on Bacvice beach, where you can swim in the warm shallow waters and enjoy a chilled cocktail at one of the beachfront cafés.

Why travel with Cox & Kings?

A journey by rail is an unforgettable way to travel, offering experiences that no other mode of transport can compete with. Cox & Kings promises a variety of rail holidays across the globe, and you can currently save up to £600 on group tours and £250 on tailor-made travel. What’s more, we have been experts since 1758, and we specialise in tailor-making unique itineraries. So, what are you waiting for? Start your rail adventure today.

Europe’s most exciting new rail journeys for 2023

Travel in Europe is being transformed by a new wave of sleeper trains, high-speed connections and rail-themed tours. What better time to hit the tracks?

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Europe’s most exciting new rail journeys

Travel in Europe is being transformed by a new wave of sleeper trains, high-speed connections and rail-themed tours. What better time to hit the tracks?

Switzerland’s GoldenPass Express (David Bochud)

Switzerland’s GoldenPass Express (David Bochud)

There hasn’t been this much excitement about locomotion in Europe since George Stephenson’s Rocket was breaking records in the late 1920s. It’s a perfect storm. The climate crisis has combined with a host of other factors to make train travel more popular than ever, and many railways are now recording higher passenger numbers than before the pandemic.

There are many reasons for this: the value placed on slow travel, environmental awareness, flight shame, airport queues and new rail services are just a few. Added to these is a new wave of ticket offers. Anxiety over climate change has led many progressive governments to offer lower prices on public transport, and some of these are available to visitors. In Germany, the £43 D-Ticket confers free use of local public transport for a month; in Spain, short- and medium-distance RENFE trains are free in 2023. For the latter, a small deposit (£9-17) is required, which is then refundable after 16 trips; and while a tourist is unlikely to use the pass enough to earn the refund, the saving made on two journeys can be enough to justify the outlay.

Proof positive that travellers like the idea of exploring by train is the selling out in 2023 of the six-day itinerary of the new Le Grand Tour luxury train in France, despite its eye-watering cost. Developed by the Puy du Fou theme-park team, this Belle Époque-style train travels 4,000km and takes in some of the country’s most famous sights.
A rival at the top end of the market will be the Orient Express La Dolce Vita in Italy, for which a start date has yet to be announced. Created by Accor Hotels, the train’s interiors are inspired by Italian decor from the 1960s and ’70s. Eight one- and two-night itineraries are planned.

For mere mortals, Italian Railways (FS) aims to launch a high-speed route between Paris and Barcelona by the end of 2024, putting them in competition with French Railways’ TGV service. Meanwhile, Zürich to Barcelona is among Nightjet’s new routes tipped for 2024, a year when Midnight Trains also plans to launch the first ‘hotel rail service’ from its Paris hub. Its map shows destinations as far afield as Porto, Copenhagen and Edinburgh.

With all eyes on Europe’s railways this year, here are just a selection of the most significant new train services and rail-based tours that are chugging your way.

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(Dalibor Brlek / Alamy Stock Photo)

Black train passing by green fields with orange and blue sunset

(Goldenpass Express)

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(Alamy Stock Photo)

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(Sergey Dzyuba / Alamy Stock Photo)

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(imageBROKER / Alamy Stock Photo)

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(Sean Pavone / Alamy Stock Photo)

(Henk Meijer / Alamy Stock Photo)

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(Dalibor Brlek / Alamy Stock Photo)

Black train passing by green fields with orange and blue sunset

(Goldenpass Express)

(Alamy Stock Photo)

(Alamy Stock Photo)

(Alamy Stock Photo)

(Sergey Dzyuba / Alamy Stock Photo)

(Shutterstock)

(imageBROKER / Alamy Stock Photo)

(Shutterstock)

(Sean Pavone / Alamy Stock Photo)

(Henk Meijer / Alamy Stock Photo)

Brussels–Berlin

The new Brussels–Berlin overnight train by European Sleeper (launched in May) connects with the London–Brussels Eurostar and promises a seamless link between the UK and the German capital. It calls at Antwerp, Roosendaal, Rotterdam, Den Haag, Amsterdam, Amersfoort, Deventer, Bad Bentheim and Hannover, and has one-, two- and three-berth compartments. There are couchettes and seats for those on a budget.

More information: One-way seats from £43; couchettes from £70; sleepers from £96. europeansleeper.eu

Hamburg–Stockholm

SJ EuroNight, part of Swedish State Railways, launched this overnight service last September. It has en-suite showers and WCs for passengers in first class; those in second-class sleepers will have a washbasin in their compartment and a toilet in the carriage; there are also second-class couchettes. As well as the regular route between Stockholm and Hamburg, the train continues on to Berlin between April and September.

More information: One-way seats from £37; couchettes from £66; sleepers from £145. sj.se

Mount Pilatus

Queen Victoria made it to the summit of Mount Pilatus riding a pony brought from England and accompanied by Highland attendants. But since 1889, the world’s steepest rack railway has allowed millions to enjoy the panorama from its 2,132m summit. Last October, faster, more energy-efficient trains replaced their 60-year-old predecessors, and their larger windows offer even better views of the sheer rock walls as they ascend the final section.

More information: Returns from Alpnachstad from £69. pilatus.ch

Goldenpass Express

Last December, a world-first train was launched in order to obviate the need to change services when travelling through the Swiss countryside between Montreux and Interlaken. The GoldenPass Express can not only change the track gauge as it moves through an apparatus at Zweisimmen, but the height of the coach body is adjusted to the different platform heights of the two gauges. The train has generous windows, swivelling leather seats in Prestige class and on-board food and drink from the local area – except the Champagne. The climb out of Montreux astonishes first-timers as the train negotiates a series of hairpin curves to gain height over Lake Geneva before diving into a long tunnel. Classic Alpine valleys and farmsteads are then followed by skirting the waterside of Lake Thun before arriving in Interlaken, a springboard for trains to the Jungfrau and Eiger.

More information: Montreux–Interlaken from £47 one-way; reservation is recommended, with booking fees starting from £18pp. goldenpass.ch

Paris–Barcelona

SNCF Voyageurs launched its TGV service between the French and Catalan capitals last December with a journey time of just over 6.5 hours. Leaving from Gare de Lyon, the train dashes across undulating countryside towards Lyon before entering the more appealing Rhône Valley and the first stop at Nîmes, which is well worth visiting for the Maison Carrée, a remarkably well preserved Roman temple, and the city’s 24,000-capacity ancient amphitheatre. After the stop at Montpellier, the sight of marshes and coast begins to fill the window until you reach Perpignan station, a building once dubbed ‘the centre of the universe’ by Salvador Dalí. Flamingos and Dali’s former home are among the curious sights to be seen as the train crosses the Pyrénées for stops at Figueres and Girona before its arrival at Barcelona Sants station.

More information: From £34 one-way; InterRail and Eurail passes are accepted. sncf.com/en/sncf-voyageurs

The Beautiful Basque Country Tour

Eurostar and TGV trains carry you from London to Hendaye to begin this new eight-day tour of the Basque country. While based in the coastal walled town of Hondarribia, excursions include visits to the gastronomic centre of San Sebastián, beautifully sited around a crescent bay. When wandering the narrow streets of the Old Town, it’s worth calling at the San Telmo, the oldest museum in the Basque country, which has been converted from a 16th-century Dominican convent and offers insights into local culture. During your day in Bilbao, don’t miss Europe’s largest covered market: bustling fishmongers occupy its ground floor, while fruit, veg and meat lies upstairs. Though Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum is the architectural icon of the city, Norman Foster designed the metro stations with entrances as distinctive as the Paris Metro. Quieter moments can be found in the fishing village of Saint-Jean-de-Luz, whereas the topography is better understood by a journey on the rack railway up La Rhune for views over the Atlantic and the western tip of the Pyrénées.

More information: From £1,199pp; Rail Discoveries. Call 01904 734939, or visit raildiscoveries.com.

Hidden Treasures of Tuscany Tour

Turin is reached by Eurostar and high-speed train from London for the first evening of this new ten-day escorted tour. There is a morning to explore the architectural delights of modern Italy’s first capital before taking the train through Milan, Bologna and Florence to Poggibonsi for a coach transfer to the tiny fortified town of Monteriggioni, which is walled with 14 stone towers. Among the places visited are Pienza, Assisi and Perugia, before taking the Treno Natura steam train that runs from Siena to Asciano for a village festival celebrating seasonal food or wine – the particular village is chosen according to the time of year. A final day in Florence precedes the train journey home via a night in Ventimiglia on the Cote d’Azur.

More information: From £2,395pp; Great Rail Journeys. Call 01904 521936, or visit greatrail.com

Lindau & Lake Constance Tour

Travelling out by rail via Cologne and the Rhine Valley and back via Bonn, this new escorted nine-day tour is based in the waterside German town of Lindau but uses boats and trains to explore all three countries around the shores of Lake Constance, including Switzerland and Austria. The spectacular Arlberg Pass route is taken for a day in Innsbruck, while the Swiss Appenzell region is explored via the delightful narrow-gauge network that threads the valleys. The ski resort of Oberstdorf, the southernmost town in Germany, is reached by riding a local train up the beautiful Iller Valley, whereupon you can take one of three cable cars to grab the perfect mountain panorama shot.

More information: From £1,725pp; Ffestiniog Travel. Call 01766 512400, or visit ffestiniogtravel.com.

From the French to the Italian Riviera Tour

This new six-night tour encompasses France’s Côte d’Azur and Italy’s Genoa and Cinque Terre region, beginning in Menton – which can be reached from Paris by TGV (not included). As you travel around, the Ligurian Sea is seldom out of view as the train curves around the coast for a full day in Genoa and the chance to explore one of Europe’s largest medieval quarters. The coastal train journey then continues on to Monterosso; this village lies close to Levanto, which offers a thrilling bike ride along a former railway line to Framura that threads the old rail tunnels. Alternatively, the villages of the Cinque Terre can be explored by local train or by boat.

More information: From £1,155pp (based on two sharing); Inntravel. Call 01653 617001, or visit inntravel.co.uk)

Grenoble–Gap–Briançon

It is unusual for an important railway to be closed for two years for rebuilding, but that is exactly what happened to this line. It only reopened last December but remains one of the great unsung railway journeys of Europe. Between Grenoble and Veynes-Dévoluy there are 26 tunnels and numerous bridges and viaducts, mostly on curves, giving passengers a clear view of the line ahead and the chasms below. Leaving Grenoble, an arc of peaks resembling malformed teeth soon fills the horizon as the train climbs to the summit of Col de la Croix Haute at 1,179m. After Lus-la-Croix-Haute a curious fin of rock – like the spine of a stegosaurus – descends to the valley floor; pines and conifers flank the line as it drops parallel with a cluster of peaks before reaching the junction of Gap. From there, take the line on to the border citadel of Briançon, where, out of season, you half expect to turn a corner and meet cowled monks or a troop of breast-plated soldiers with halberds.

More information: From £34.50 one-way. raileurope.com

Zurich–Prague

Its easy to forget just what an eye-catching city Prague can be. The Czech capital is every bit the equal of Europe’s other big hitters, with its iconic castle, centuries-old bridges, pervading Gothic menace and mazy labyrinth of quaint back lanes that hum with microbreweries. It also has a rail history dating back to 1845. Today, Prague is the main base for a number of sleeping-car trains operated by Czech Railways (CD), whose services radiate out from the city and across Europe. Its Zurich–Prague train, which runs via Innsbruck, Salzburg, Linz and Ceske Budejovice, was even supplemented last December by another service operating between the cities, except that this version travels via Basel, Frankfurt, Leipzig and Dresden and is named ‘Canopus’. Both have sleeping cars and deliver passengers to Prague Hlavni station, which is an easy 15-minute walk from the old town. It’s the perfect way to arrive refreshed and ready to explore.

More information: One-way seats from £58 without reservation; sleepers from £79. cd.cz

Explore Spain with Iryo

With Trenitalia as its largest shareholder, Iryo is the new rail operator in competition with Spanish state railway RENFE. Its first service, linking Madrid, Zaragoza and Barcelona, began last November, followed by Madrid–València a month later and trains to Córdoba, Seville and Málaga in March. A service to Alicante is expected to start in June. There are four classes of comfort, though all seats on its 360km/h Frecciarossa trains come with USB and standard sockets. But it’s the destinations that really shine.

The attractions of Barcelona and Seville are well known, yet Córdoba is a revelation to many. Its narrow cobbled streets are a joy to wander, with glimpses into arcaded courtyards accompanied by the sound of water from a gentle fountain. However, it is the city’s palimpsest of a cathedral that is most spellbinding: what was an 8th-century mosque, possibly built over a Visigothic church, was converted into a cathedral from 1236. Just walking through it conjures a sense of wandering among a forest of stone. Take time to also appreciate the Moors’ genius for engineering from remnants of their sluices and locks beside the River Guadalquivir, spanned by a traffic-free Roman bridge that is a popular haunt of buskers.

Elsewhere, Cuenca’s hanging houses, above the gorge of the River Huécar, are its most striking feature, but there are plenty of other delights to be found in a city that dates back to the 8th century. Equally well explored on foot is València, where extensive restoration of the old city and the towers of its defensive walls has greatly enhanced visits. As the birthplace of architect Santiago Calatrava, check out his bridge and the many spectacular buildings of the City of Arts and Sciences that were designed by him.

More information: One-way tickets: Madrid–Barcelona from £27.50; Madrid–València from £10; Madrid–Seville from £14; Madrid–Málaga from £16. iryo.eu

Paris–Vienna & Vienna–Genoa–La Spezia

Ten years ago, optimism about sleeping-car trains was hard to find, yet Austrian Railways (ÖBB) saw an opportunity and set up Nightjet in 2016. Its growth has arguably been aided by the spread of the flygskam (flight shame) movement, which started in Sweden in 2017; consequently, we are now starting to see more sleeper services across Europe and better facilities. As well as the recent addition of Nightjet’s Paris–Vienna service, its Brussels–Vienna sleeper route will become daily in late 2023.

If you want to continue your adventure, another new Nightjet service for this year now links Vienna with Italy’s Cinque Terre region, terminating at La Spezia, just south of the famous five villages that cling to the Italian Riviera coast. This port city is worth a stay in its own right: it has a fine Naval Museum and is the starting point for boat trips to islands such as Palmaria or Portovenere. Those exploring the region’s coastal villages, such as Manarola, can buy a one-, two- or three-day Cinque Terre Train Card, which gives free access to local hiking trails (for which there is normally a fee) and unlimited train travel between Levanto and La Spezia.

More information: Paris–Vienna one-way: couchettes from £44; sleepers from £80; Vienna–La Spezia one-way: couchettes from £93; sleepers from £119. nightjet.com

Last chance to ride the rails

Not all train services last forever – even the iconic ones. Grab a final trip on these old favourites…

London–Paris on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

Few trains had as much romance as the Pullman Golden Arrow service between London Victoria and Paris Gare du Nord. Until 1936, passengers had to board a dedicated Channel steamer on foot as part of the journey; thereafter, train-ferries able to carry sleeping cars were introduced. Belmond’s Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (VSOE), which features restored coaches from the 1920s, ’30s and ’50s, recreates the pre-1936 experience perfectly, but with one exception: the Channel crossing is made not by ship but by luxury coach through the Channel Tunnel. Sadly, VSOE has decided to discontinue the UK leg of the journey at the end of the 2023 season, so it will only operate between Paris Gare de l’Est and Venice from 2024. It’s your last chance to experience it.

More information: London–Venice from £3,530. belmond.com

Over the Rampa de Pajares

You have only to look at a map to realise that the railway beneath the Pajares Pass of the Cantabrian Mountains between Asturias and León is something special. The route almost resembles a child’s doodling in its incessant loops and curves. The views westward on both climbs to the summit tunnel are breathtaking, but the sad truth is that the train service that provides them may not survive beyond the end of 2023. A deviation with a 25km base tunnel is expected to open sometime this year, and no plans for the old route have been proposed. Contrast this with Switzerland, where the old Gotthard Pass line (also bypassed by a base tunnel) is being promoted for tourism. Consequently, this may be the last year you can take the train between Oviedo and León and enjoy one of Europe’s great railway journeys at the same time.

More information: Oviedo–León from £8. renfe.com

Please note: Like airlines, nearly all train operators have booking systems and prices determined by yield management algorithms, so prices can fluctuate by the day. Almost invariably, the further ahead you book, the cheaper the price. For train journeys, there is no better online source of information than seat61.com

How to go on an Arctic rail adventure

Adventure

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An Arctic rail

Adventure

How to ride the real Polar Express

Take a ride on the real Polar Express with a new tour that uses the Nordic rail network to cross the Arctic Circle and enter a frozen world of huskies, ice hotels and dazzling night skies…

All around me the snow lay smooth as Christmas cake icing. The surface was cracked only by the metallic shimmer of a frigid river. I stared at my phone, transfixed, as a blinking circle traversed the dotted line stitched across the map. I had crossed the Arctic Circle – the invisible halo of latitude that crowns the northern fringes of Russia, Canada, USA, Greenland, Iceland, Finland, Norway and Sweden, as if a school compass had been swizzled around the top of the Earth.

I looked around me, waiting for the fanfare. The spotless carriage of the Nordland train, bound for Bodø, was empty save for a lone man whose head was burrowed inside a book. The words, ‘We are soon crossing the Arctic Circle,’ still blinked silently across the train’s digital message board.

The author stares out of the window of a train on the century-old Dovre Railway, which runs between Oslo and Trondheim

The author stares out of the window of a train on the century-old Dovre Railway, which runs between Oslo and Trondheim

The soothing warmth of the carriage cocooned us as the monochrome scenery spooled past the window like an old film, but part of me itched for the occasion to be marked by the breathless, frostbitten striving of the Arctic expeditions of old. The siren song of the North is strong. It whispers in your ear with an icy breath that sets the spine a-tingle with the promise of adventure and a clawed handshake with Nature. Polar explorer Roald Amundsen heard it; so too did Fridtjof Nansen, who made the first crossing of Greenland’s interior. I’d heeded the call and joined Discover the World’s new ‘21-night Arctic Rail Odyssey’ tour that departs from London St Pancras and snakes ever northward through Germany, Denmark, Norway and Sweden.

Life aboard the Cologne–Copenhagen train

Life aboard the Cologne–Copenhagen train

A half-metre-long bratwurst and a stein of beer served at Cologne’s Haxenhaus zum Rheingarten beer house

A half-metre-long bratwurst and a stein of beer served at Cologne’s Haxenhaus zum Rheingarten beer house

Nyhavn, Copenhagen’s 17th-century canal

Nyhavn, Copenhagen’s 17th-century canal

A group of skaters stroll the streets of Copenhagen’s Freetown Christiania (Alamy)

A group of skaters stroll the streets of Copenhagen’s Freetown Christiania (Alamy)

So far, we had clacked through the farms, fields and gunmetal-grey skies of Belgium towards the church spires of Cologne in Germany, where we’d knocked back Kolsh beers and bratwurst, then pushed on to Copenhagen, where the blossoms of magnolia and cherry trees had shrunk back to bare branches, as if the seasons were rewinding.

Each inch northwards seemed to bring fewer rules. Here the strictness of Germany had subsided: masks were done away with and, as we made our way to Christiania, an independent community in the heart of Copenhagen established by hippies in the 1970s, the rulebook seemed to have been ripped up completely. This ‘free town’ has its own flag and its own laws. According to the graffitied wall next to the entrance gate, its only goals were: ‘Clean air, Rent free, Clean water.’

Like early frontiersmen, inhabitants can largely do as they like, such as build their own homes and – most famously – sell cannabis. Technically, it is illegal and the police do raid Pusher Street, the main drag (pardon the pun), to discourage it, but stalls pop up again like daisies.

As I strolled, I saw artists flogging their work on trestle tables and gardens littered with sculptures made from scrap. The scent of marijuana hazed the air as I walked towards Café Nemoland. It was midday and quiet. Behind the bar, the bald, goateed manager, Ralf, was drying glasses with a cloth that had seen cleaner days. I sipped the bitter coffee he pushed across to me while we spoke.

“I’ve been coming here since I was 15. I moved in full time for a while in the nineties,” he reminisced. “The vibe has changed a lot. The community spirit brought by the old hippy guys is disappearing. Now it’s 80% tourists and there’s a lot of focus on making money on Pusher Street. There’s few values left,” he finished, shaking his head. “We’re all ‘comfortably numb’ now, eh?” he grinned, referencing the music of Pink Floyd, and returned to his glasses. This place didn’t have the sense of freedom I was searching for and the rails were calling me further north.

In the footsteps of heroes

At Halden we crossed the border into Norway. The bars of reception on my phone shrank, buildings were swapped for patches of spruce and silver birch, and the ground glinted with frost. The train whooshed on, sending a raft of ducks scattering across a lake. Here the towns were built for snow, with flat roads, wide paths and unfenced homesteads that hid tractors beneath lean-tos. Then, suddenly, all that white melted away as we entered the Norwegian capital.

The legendary Fram is a three-masted schooner that was sailed by Fridtjof

The legendary Fram is a three-masted schooner that was sailed by Fridtjof

On Oslo’s museum-studded Bygdøy peninsula, beneath a shelter as pointed as a mountain peak, I first saw the Fram, a red-white-and-black-striped schooner that, prior to the Titanic, was the most famous ship in the world. Explorers Amundsen and Nansen had both chosen her for their Arctic expeditions between 1893 and 1912.

On her deck, stormy seas were projected onto the museum walls; below deck, it was like walking into a time capsule. Pipes lay unsmoked on a saloon table spread with games of Whist and Boston, and the dining room was set for a Christmas dinner of pork chops, marrow pudding and chocolate. I moved away from the other visitors craning their heads into the cramped cabins and slipped into the quiet bow, which was crammed with furs and pretend legs of ham. I placed a hand on her original wooden beams, studded with rivets as wide as a thumb, and her soul sparked to life. There, in the still bowels of the boat, I swear I could hear ice grinding like teeth against the wood.

The Fram Museum is just one of many cultural institutions to be found scattered across Oslo’s leafy Bygdøy peninsula

The Fram Museum is just one of many cultural institutions to be found scattered across Oslo’s leafy Bygdøy peninsula

Bussing back to the city centre, I joined a pair of local girls jumping into the freezing water of the wharf and then scurrying into the hot breath of a sauna. It was built across from the dramatic opera house that floats on the banks of the Bunne Fjord like a great white iceberg. As the pine-scented steam wrapped itself around our pinkening skin, my mind returned to a hazy picture mounted in the Fram Museum. On Amundsen’s expedition, a walk-in steam bath had been rigged up by the ship’s deep-voiced dog driver, Sverre Hassel, so that the crew could wash once a week. These parallels with the Fram and her crew would ghost me throughout the trip. Another example came the next day when, back on the train, I was dealing cards for a game of poker and scenes of the ship’s saloon table spread with card suits flashed before me.

A few days later, we stopped in Trondheim, a city that only knows four months of the year without snow and where you can catch 20-kilo salmon in the city centre River Nidelva. I marvelled at its long legacy of men called Olav, from the city’s founding Viking to Norway’s patron saint, whose remains still lie in a shrine in the imposing Nidaros Cathedral. The latter was once Christianity’s northernmost pilgrimage site and has a weathervane with the face of Bob Dylan carved into it thanks to a rogue sculptor.

The imposing Nidaros Cathedral (Shutterstock)

The imposing Nidaros Cathedral (Shutterstock)

“We’re stubborn, but we don’t take ourselves too seriously – we have an underdog spirit,” said my local guide, Siri Forsnes. It’s reflected in the old medieval alleys that contrast with ‘Bella’ and ‘Ola’, two university-designed robots who serve food to customers in the covered Olavshallen.

We knocked back drams of windpipe-warming aquavit and then boarded the century-old Nordland Line. For ten hours and 729km, Norway’s longest railway tracks in a single line along the spine of the country, crossing the Arctic Circle and finishing in the town of Bodø. The first section opened in 1882, and the line was continued by the Germans during their Second World War occupation before eventually being completed in 1962.

(Shutterstock)

(Shutterstock)

“The Sami traditionally believe the northern lights to be the souls of the dead: a sight to be feared and never spoken of”

The best scenery starts after the town of Steinkjer. We passed villages clustered around rocky bays with frost-bitten piers and glassy water, and whizzed through pine forests that protruded from blankets of snow that were as smooth as satin. Beyond the Arctic Circle, we traversed Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park, home to neither powerlines nor footprints – just moose, lynx, wolverine and crests of snow that arced up like great ocean waves.

At Bodø the track runs out. You can’t travel any further north by rail. This fishing community has been largely overlooked for the epically scenic Lofoten islands that sit just across the water, but that is set to change. Bodø is revving up to be a Capital of Culture in 2024 and is transforming from ragged to ritzy at a rate of knots, with an open-air festival set to take place against the backdrop of the fjord and the addition of its own champagne-breakfast café.

Life here still revolves around the Arctic cod – known to Norwegians as skrei

Life here still revolves around the Arctic cod – known to Norwegians as skrei

The lure of the Lofotens couldn’t be ignored, so we hopped on a boat chugging toward the untamed archipelago – name-dropped in Jules Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea – that broods 150km north of the Arctic Circle. Its small fishing towns are framed by vast wooden racks strung with stiffening cod, their skies a whirl of seagulls and the horizon a toothsome string of serrated peaks that beckon hikers. But almost everyone comes to see the Aurora Borealis. Few other phenomena spark equal measures fear and wonder in men’s souls. The Vikings believed them to be light glancing off the armour of Valkyries, the horse-riding female cavalry who led Odin’s chosen warriors across the Bifrost Bridge to their final resting place in Valhalla. The indigenous Sami traditionally believe them to be the souls of the dead: a sight to be feared and never spoken of. For Geir Notisnes, a photographer who leads tours to see the lights, it’s a similar tale.

“When I was young, I was scared of them,” he told me. “We believed that if you looked at the lights, they would pick you up. We would run away from them!”

Nonetheless, Geir has spent two decades pursuing the aurora. “I still haven’t taken my best picture, so I keep chasing,” he sighed like a man in love.

We’d joined him for the last tour of the season, so our chances of seeing the aurora in the lighter spring skies were slim. We waited until the embering sun slowly melted below the horizon and night cast the snowy arc of the Milky Way and the slim crust of a new moon above us. Slowly, spectral wisps of cloud started to streak across the sky.

“Here they come,” whispered Geir, reverently, as if Odin’s warriors themselves were racing towards us.

“They seem pale,” I said.

A dazzling northern lights display in Lofoten (Shutterstock)

A dazzling northern lights display in Lofoten (Shutterstock)

“Hold your camera up to them,” instructed Geir, so I snapped at the sky. On the screen appeared a dazzling ribbon of emerald silk. “The Sami say you can hear the northern lights sing,” he added. So we stood in silence, listening.

The next day, we were picked up by Odd Helge, who offers private island tours in his state-of-the-art electric car. We cruised along ribbon-thin roads woven around mountains that knifed into the mirror-calm fjords. We passed fishing huts perched on promontories, and occasionally spied a chapel with a red turret that blinked like a siren against the whole snowy scene. Eventually, we stopped in the hamlet of Henningsvær to visit the Caviar Factory, a former processing plant for ‘black gold’ that has been turned into a trend-setting modern art gallery. Odd entered with us to have a peek around, but only afterwards, back in the car, did he say: “Sometimes tourism can really make you look at your home in a new light.”

(Shutterstock)

(Shutterstock)

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

The Icehotel’s central atrium, like the rest of the structure, is recreated from scratch every year

The Icehotel’s central atrium, like the rest of the structure, is recreated from scratch every year

Cocktails at the Icehotel come served in their very own frozen ice glass

Cocktails at the Icehotel come served in their very own frozen ice glass

Mushing a team of huskies through the Arctic tundra around Kiruna

Mushing a team of huskies through the Arctic tundra around Kiruna

Beautiful icicles found dangling from an Arctic cabin

Beautiful icicles found dangling from an Arctic cabin

Gone to the dogs

At Narvik, we caught our last train – bound for Kiruna in Sweden. Instead of a ticket machine, the conductor carried a ledger. Teenagers bundled onboard clutching their skis, boots hanging off their backpacks, and on we rolled, deeper and deeper into the clutches of the Arctic.
By the time we alighted, winter was in full fury.

Passengers dragged their suitcases through the ever-thickening quilt of snow on the platform and dove into waiting taxis that were fast becoming entombed. Up here, just 27,000 people share an area half the size of Belgium, where ploughs outnumber cars because for ten months of the year the land is chalked white.

The blizzard swallowed the road entirely as we gingerly drove towards the village of Jukkasjärvi and its iconic Icehotel, which is built anew each year from ‘snez’ (man-made snow) and car-size chunks of ice sliced from the local Torne River. The concept of sleeping on a block of ice strewn with reindeer skins proved so popular they built a second, the Icehotel 365, which – as the name implies – is frozen all year round. Most guests splash out on one of the 18 themed art rooms with elaborate ice sculptures hand-carved by an ever-changing array of international artists. Tours to try snowmobiling, ice fishing and to see the northern lights are on offer, but best of all is the chance to learn how to mush a team of Alaskan huskies.

The next day, the sun hung hazy in the sky as if hidden behind frosted glass. We arrived at the dog yard to a hullabaloo of howls and, after a quick demonstration, I was handed the reins of a team of four: piebald brothers Bags and Bunny and, up front, Kip and his buddy Katz, a pure white husky with iceberg-blue eyes.

I stood astride my wooden sled and off we pattered, out of the yard and into the wilderness, racing between pine trees with boughs brought low by snow. Capable of running four hours without stopping, these hounds are fur-cloaked superheroes. If they needed to urinate, they lifted a leg mid-run and left the snow highlighted with a streak of yellow; and if they got thirsty, they just snagged tonguefuls of snow from the side of the trail. The silence and serenity was broken only by the soft pant of breath and the occasional whiff of a dog fart. And as the dogs raced across the tundra, my mind went back once again to Oslo’s fascinating Fram Museum and the blurry black-and-white photos of Amundsen and Nansen stood beside their own team of sled dogs that would haul them towards the North Pole.

We weren’t going quite that far. Just a simple log cabin hidden in the woods. Snow had drifted almost up to the window ledges; icicles, long and sharp as sabre swords, guarded the entrance. Anchoring the dogs and sleds, we stomped snow off our boots and entered a room furnished with an old stove and a simple table and bench. Our guide, Jan, fried up some slices of elk and tipped them into a big pot of soup, which we slurped as the sky started to cloud with snow.

In his diary, Nansen had noted: ‘I laugh at the cold, it is nothing, but of the winds I do not laugh, they are everything,’ and as we exited the cabin, the dogs began to whimper and bark at the fast-changing weather. They yanked on their harnesses, eager to leave and retrace our tracks. The snowflakes flurried at first, dissolving on my outstretched tongue, but then the snow fell harder and the wind began to lash our hands and cheeks, forcing me to pull up my hood until just my scrunched eyes peeked out. Here was a taster of the breathless, cold, freedom I’d longed for as we’d crossed the Arctic Circle. But, then again, the call of the rails was whispering in my ear again…

5 Arctic Rail highlights

1. The Dovre Railway Line

Stretching 548km from Oslo to Trondheim, this century-old train line passes Mjosa, the largest lake in Norway, as well as the scenic Gudbrandsdal valley and the Dovrefjell mountain plateau, home to 300 wild musk ox.

2. Trondheim

Not only is Trondheim becoming a serious foodie hotspot (it’s hosting the Bocuse d’Or world chef championship in 2024), it’s also home to the Nidaros Cathedral – the end point of the epic Pilgrim’s Way (643km) that starts in Oslo.

3. Lofoten Islands

This archipelago offers mountain scenery on steroids thanks to the sight of jagged peaks spearing into nature-rich seas. There’s superb hiking, traditional fishing communities and some of the clearest night skies around. It’s a don’t miss.

4. Northern Lights

The Sami believe the aurora to be the souls of the dead; other Norwegians believe they form the Bifrost Bridge that leads fallen warriors to their final resting place in Valhalla. Either way, the Arctic region offers a high chance of being able to see this wonder.

5. Copenhagen’s Nyhavn

Be whisked back to the 17th century, when this harbour – home to the author Hans Christian Anderson for 18 years – brimmed with beer halls and sailors. Even today, it’s still filled with old-fashioned boats and accordion players.

About the trip

The author travelled on Discover the World, which offers an independent 21-night ‘Arctic Rail Odyssey’ that runs from March to October and includes all rail travel, transfers and accommodation.

How well do you know the world’s greatest rail journeys?

How well do you know the world’s greatest rail journeys?

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