21 great Himalaya adventures

The Indian Himalaya conjures images of ancient pilgrimages and sacred sites – but it’s far more than that. The western ranges, from Kashmir to Nanda Devi, boast an incredible variety of viewpoints and communities. In the east, paradise-like Sikkim has giant butterflies and orchid forests while Arunachal Pradesh is the last of the Himalayan wild frontiers.

Sikkim is a land of dramatic scenery, delightful monasteries and hundreds of butterflies, birds and rare plants. Start in Gangtok, the state capital, an easy drive from Darjeeling and the place to learn about Lepcha culture at the Institute of Tibetology. Nearby is the lavishly decorated Rumtek Gompa monastery, home to the head of the Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

Next, go to Martam, a small Lepcha village with great views of Kanchenjunga’s south face, and Pemayangtse (‘Perfect Sublime Lotus’) Monastery, nestled on a hilltop. From here, Darjeeling is only a day away.

How long? Eight days.
How tough? Easy, in any vehicle.
When to go? Mid-October-May, for views (although winter gets cold); Chaam, Pemayangtse’s lama-dancing festival, is held Feb/Mar.
Get started: A 15-day travel permit (extendable to 45 days in Gangtok) can be issued with your India visa. Arrange tours through agents in Gangtok or Darjeeling.

From Guwahati, in Assam, it’s 350km of winding through valleys to reach Tawang, one of the most remote towns in the Himalaya. The Dalai Lama took this route out of Tibet in 1959, believing it was the least likely place anyone would look for him.

A sprawling Buddhist monastery dominates Tawang, and snowy peaks mark the border with Tibet. At nearby Thembang, there’s a homestay programme that’s an ideal base for exploring the surrounding Monpa communities. From Tawang it takes a few days to reach the idyllic plateau of Ziro, home to the animist Apatani tribe, famed for their facial tattoos and wooden nose-plugs. The Apatani are one of the dozen-or-so tribal groups here, some only a generation away from being head-hunters.

How long? 14 days.
How tough? Easy, in a 4WD.
When to go? April-May and October-November. Dree, the major Apatani festival, is in July.
Get started: Inner Line Permits are only available through authorised agents in Delhi and Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh’s capital. Thembang homestay can be booked through WWF-India ([email protected]).

For 130 years the Himalayan Railway – or Toy Train – has delivered respite-seeking passengers from the heat of the plains to the hilltop bazaars of Darjeeling, 86km away. The railway was Unesco-listed in 1999, and travellers taking the 2,200m ascent up into the hills today will soon discover its old world charms.

But beyond Darjeeling’s magnificently manicured tea estates, a trek through the forests of pine, conifer and rhododendron lead to a ridge that forms a natural border with Nepal and into Singalila National Park. Home to red panda, black bear and two sorts of leopard, the park is best seen when wildflowers are blooming. Circular routes visit the high point of Phalut (3,600m) for an outstanding panorama of Kanchenjunga and, to the north-west, Lhotse and Everest.

How long? Ten days (treks four to six days, plus days for train and Darjeeling).
How tough? Easy, though slippery during the monsoon.
When to go? Wildflowers are best March-May and October; the best views are November-January.
Get started: Trekking tours can be organised in Darjeeling. New Jalpaiguri station, for the Toy Train, is on the main Kolkata-Delhi line; see www.dhrs.org.