Exploring Uruguay’s UNESCO-listed Colonia del Sacramento

When thinking about the 19th-century British invasions of the Río de la Plata (River Plate; 1806–07), Argentines often wonder what it would have been like to have been part of the British Empire. But they rarely consider the more likely counterfactual: that Brazil might have extended its power southward and absorbed its large neighbour into its already considerable vastness.

Uruguay’s Colonia del Sacramento, on the left (north-east) bank of the Río de la Plata, across from Argentina, is an evocative reminder of a time when the latter was very possible indeed. Portuguese Brazil, vying for territorial and maritime dominion with the Spanish, founded the original town here, Nova Colônia do Sacramento, in 1660 as a military outpost. It was a strategic site, allowing control of the river mouth within sight of Buenos Aires as well as offering additional protection for Brazil’s southern frontier. The colony was hot property and changed hands several times until 1828, when Uruguay gained its independence.

Colonia’s 19th-century lighthouse (Shutterstock)

Today, the historic quarter of Colonia – as it’s known locally – is listed by UNESCO for its well-preserved “fusion of Portuguese, Spanish and post-colonial” architectural styles. Lots of weekenders from Uruguay and Argentina, and significant numbers from Brazil, come to stroll the narrow cobbled streets of the quaint, tree-lined old centre, which is laid out irregularly (unlike the grids of most Spanish colonial settlements) on a small peninsula that sticks out into the river. Colonia also packs in a surprising number of museums for such a little town.

Get your bearings at the Museo Municipal, off the Plaza Mayor, where there’s a scale model of the settlement as it looked in 1762, as well as a re-creation of a colonial drawing room. On either side of the museum are the Casa Nacarello and Casa del Virrey, the former a colonial-era house with period furniture, the latter the foundations of one. A short walk away is the Espacio Portugués, another old property, housing displays of Portuguese porcelain, furniture and weapons.

The Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento rises over the old town (Shutterstock)

Restaurants serve chivito (steak) sandwich, arguably Uruguay’s “national dish” (Shutterstock)

On the south-west corner of the plaza are vestiges of the 17th-century Convento de San Francisco, within which stands the 19th-century Faro (lighthouse) – probably Colonia’s best known landmark. It’s worth ascending to the top to take in the view; you’ll see how extraordinarily wide the River Plate is and, haze permitting, Buenos Aires on the far shore.

On the other main square, the Plaza de Armas, is the Basilica del Santísimo Sacramento, said to be Uruguay’s oldest church. Founded in 1680, it was rebuilt twice under Spanish rule.

For a great photo, the reconstructed city gate offers a dramatic setting. From this spot, a fortified wall runs south along the pedestrian-friendly Paseo de San Miguel and down to the river. The Centro Cultural Bastión del Carmen is built around a section of the fortifications. As well as a theatre and gallery spaces, it has riverside lawns around the back, enlivened by outdoor sculptures and an industrial chimney dating from the 1880s. Uruguayans kick back to enjoy eternal rounds of mate here.

The old city gates of Colonia (Shutterstock)

If you’re a museum buff, you’ll want to see the Museo del Azulejo on the corner of Misiones de los Tapes and Paseo de San Gabriel, a tiny 17th-century stone house with a collection of French and Catalan tiles. There’s also the Museo Indígena, which showcases a collection of stone tools that belonged to the Charrúa, said to be the first indigenous peoples the Europeans met when exploring the river in the early 16th century, as well as the Museo Paleontológico, which exhibits glyptodon shells and other locally excavated finds from a private collection.

Colonia lives up to its name; it still looks and feels like another era. In a part of South America where pre-19th century architecture is rare, that makes it a very special place.

Old black automobile on the streets of Colonia (Shutterstock)

Bougainvillea tree growing by the house in historic quarter (Shutterstock)

Location: South-western Uruguay, 180km west of capital Montevideo, 50km from Buenos Aires (Argentina).

Getting there: There are no direct flights from the UK to Uruguay. Iberia flies direct to Montevideo from Madrid. British Airways has connecting flights from London Heathrow to Ezeiza International, near Buenos Aires, from around £608 return. From Buenos Aires most people take the fast ferry to Colonia del Sacramento, which takes 75 minutes; from £47.

Getting around: The city is small and walkable, though cobblestones make it bumpy going. To explore the region, there are good bus services along the coast. While a tour is useful, Uruguay is one of the easier South American countries to explore independently. A hire car is handy if you want to visit the Pampas or northern beach towns.

When to go: Year round, but summer (December–March) can be very hot.

Accommodation: Charco is a boutique-style hotel in a colonial building perched on the River Plate and within easy walking distance of the centre. The restaurant is excellent.

Further information: Uruguay (Bradt Travel Guides; 2017) by Tim Burford