Discover the thriving arts scene in Hakone, Japan  

In 16th-century Japan, traders and travellers journeying along the old Tokaido route would often stop in Hakone for a little respite before moving on to Tokyo (then called Edo). Natural hot springs feeding traditional onsens made this area a popular place for restorative retreats and the beguiling landscapes have inspired artists and poets for centuries. Mount Fuji rises above Hakone – its distinctive flat, white top is the subject of many paintings, etchings and sketches throughout Japan’s artistic history. In spring, the scenery is swept up in blizzards of billowing cherry blossom as the ancient torii gates of Hakone Shrine appear to float on the surface of Lake Ashinoko. The scene is so picture-perfect it’s no wonder so many artists have chosen Hakone to showcase their work. This thriving arts sanctuary, beginning in nearby Odawara, is approximately 30 minutes away from Tokyo by bullet train. Here’s how to immerse yourself in Hakone’s art scene. 

Over the past 50 years, artist Hiroshi Sugimoto has created some of the most celebrated and recognisable images in contemporary art. A photographer, sculptor and architect, Sugimoto’s passions all culminate in the creation of the Enoura Observatory in Odawara. The extraordinary piece of land art is set in former mikan citrus groves. “As if guided by an unseen hand, I was drawn to this place of memories,” Sugimoto has said, recalling boyhood journeys along the old Tokaido Line, gazing out at the Pacific Ocean from Odawara.  

The vast artwork comprises several components, each designed to capture light in special ways during the winter and summer solstices. An optical glass stage is the centre of a Roman-style amphitheatre, which appears to float on the serene Sagami Bay. One hundred metres above sea level, a 100m-long gallery doubles as a viewing platform, showing off beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean. There’s also a light worship tunnel – an homage to ancient cultures for whom winter solstice was a key date. On the shortest day of the year, light passes through the 70m tunnel, illuminating a stone at one end. Finally, a traditional tea house with a serene wooden interior offers views of a stone torii gate. Guided tours of the observatory offer unique insight into Sugimoto’s process and thinking. 

This contemporary art gallery is dedicated to the nihonga style of painting. Simply meaning “Japanese-style painting”, nihonga uses shimmering gold and colourful pigments, black ink and silk or paper to create dramatic and beautiful scenes. Japanese painting is characterised by the use of unique Japanese painting materials such as sumi ink and iwa-enogu, a mineral pigment as well as paint made from natural materials such as shells, corals and sometimes even silver and gold. Narukawa Art Museum features a permanent exhibition on the hidden treasures of China, but myriad additional exhibitions change with the seasons, every four months. Get to know a fragment of the 4,000 artworks held within Narukawa’s collection on a private tour of the gallery. The tour is led by the general manager, Kanagawa-san, who offers in-depth analysis and history of each breathtaking piece. 

Apart from captivating collections, the museum’s cafe has floor-to-ceiling glass windows, flooding the space with light and highlighting a natural panorama of Lake Ashinoko flanked by forested mountains. On a clear day, the cafe has one of the best views of Mount Fuji and the torii gate of Hakone Shrine which appears to float on the lake’s surface. 

The artisan craft of Odawara lacquering dates back to the middle of the Muromachi period (1336-1573). It was something of a local secret until it gained widespread recognition during the Edo period (1603-1868) when it was a popular souvenir from Odawara for those traversing the Tokaido route between Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo). Plates, bowls and dishes are made using honey-brown zelkova wood and this ancient lacquering technique lets the natural beauty of the wood grain shine through.  

Zelkova wood is shaved and shaped, then left to dry in a smoke dryer for a few days before being coated with glue to prevent cracking. It is then left to dry naturally for 2-6 months. The dried base is shaped by the potter’s wheel and the wooden surface is smoothed, wet and polished before the lacquer is painted on with a brush. The smoothing, drying and lacquering process is repeated many times in a traditional process requiring patience and finesse. The end result is a beautiful yet durable product harking back to ancient Japan. At Mr Hajime Okawa’s workshop in Odawara, visitors have the opportunity to try lacquer shaving first-hand, where layers of black and red lacquer are meticulously applied and polished to unveil a unique pattern under the expert guidance of a third-generation craftsman. A tour of the workshop shows how Mr Hajime Okawa is keeping this ancient Japanese tradition alive in the 21st century. 

The Kowakudani area of Hakone is known for its rushing waterfalls and natural hot springs feeding a plethora of traditional onsens. This is where you’ll find Okada Museum of Art. The striking, glass-fronted building houses a collection of East Asian ceramics, sculptures and paintings on display in a stripped-back interior, allowing the artworks to take centre stage. A calming Japanese water garden surrounds the gallery, but perhaps the most intriguing feature is the cafe with a hot spring foot bath – a nod to the area’s onsen tradition. It’s the perfect way to end a visit to the gallery, after exploring five storeys of light-filled rooms, admiring ancient Chinese bronzes, Tang and Ming porcelain and early Japanese pottery.  

On a private tour of the gallery, you can enjoy a relaxing foot bath in the cafe at the start of your visit before listening to an introductory lecture providing an insightful overview of the private collection. Cake is served in the peaceful garden and a tour of the display rooms after hours comes with in-depth background to each fascinating work of art. 

The Hakone Arts experiences featured can be included as part of a wider Japan itinerary by Red Savannah