Paid Promotion

CULINARY

A guide to Saudi coffee culture

Coffee has always been a huge part of Saudi culture, serving as a symbol of hospitality, friendship, celebration, honour and respect, but what does that really mean in modern terms? Join us on a journey to find out...

Words by Sheila Russell

Wherever you go in Saudi, you can’t get away from coffee in some form or another.

They serve a wide variety from traditional Saudi coffee to espresso, cappuccino and the newer very sweet Spanish coffee. But it is not just something you drink; it is much more than that and forms part of a welcome at any time of day. Traditionally visitors are offered a small cup of Saudi Coffee or Qahwa poured from a long spouted Arabic coffee pot called a Dallah. In a theatrical lift of the arm, the golden liquid falls 30cm in a well-rehearsed swish until it lands in the small ‘finjan’ cup. Always taken in the right hand, it is sipped and enjoyed with dates. A core element of Saudi hospitality, Saudi coffee is served in little doses as a sign of the host wanting the guest to stay longer and feel entirely at home.

The history of coffee in Saudi

It is believed that coffee beans were originally exported from Ethiopia to Yemen. Later, Yemeni traders brought coffee plants back to their homeland and began to grow them there. By the middle of the 15th century, drinking coffee in liquid form was common in the region as they believed it helped them on long pilgrimages to Mecca and worshipping late into the night. Coffee quickly spread across the Middle East and became a staple in the majlis of Bedouin tribes.

How is Saudi coffee prepared?

Saudi coffee is prepared by finely grinding Arabica beans that have only been gently roasted (hence the pale colour) and boiling with water for a couple of minutes. In the early days, and still today when out in the desert where there is no electricity the beans are ground up in a pestle and mortar. Metal sets are often used and a tune is made by the tapping of the pestle on the side of the mortar. At dawn this tapping is a welcome wake up call. The quicker modern way is with a electric coffee grinder. The sound is not a mesmerising but is effective.

Finely ground cardamon is then added to the mix and sometimes other spices such as cloves, saffron, cinnamon or ginger. It is then sieved before pouring into the dallah for serving to guests. Every region and family has their own special mix, so it is always worth trying again and again in different areas.

It is often followed by sweet black tea. Large ornate thermos flasks, one with Saudi coffee and one tea, freshly prepared in advance, means the host can serve immediately and not leave the room. Families also take them on picnics or any other gathering away from the home such as visiting the desert. Whilst it is always best to prepare it from scratch, there are now also several instant sachets available, found in supermarkets across the Kingdom.

What’s the cultural significance of coffee in Saudi?

Saudi coffee is deeply intwined with celebrations and special occasions, playing a pivotal role at weddings, Eid, or other festivals. During these occasions it is customary for guests to be greeted with a small cup to mark the joyous occasion. If you have had enough, cover the top of the cup with the palm of your hand and rock gently from side to side. The host will know you do not want any more. At Ramadan it is often drunk first to break the fast at Iftar, along with Laban (fermented milk, liquid yogurt). Interestingly it is also one to the first things to be offered on board the National Saudi airline carrier, Saudia.

Coffee beans are grown in several mountainous areas of the kingdom such as Jazan, AlBaha and Abha, but not enough quantity yet to satisfy the huge demand. Several varieties are grown, but the main one is Khawlani. Flowering usually takes place in March and the cherries then take around six months to mature, when they are bright glossy red and soft to the touch. They are harvested by hand and then laid out to dry. The coffee bean is actually the seed found inside the coffee cherry and there are two in each fruit.

How can I enjoy coffee in Saudi?

In 2022, UNESCO registered Saudi Khawlani coffee and the skills and knowledge associated with its cultivation to the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Since 2013 the Jazan Coffee Festival has been held in the Ad-Dayer governate, Jazan, showcasing all aspects of coffee in the area. Needless to say, there’s lots of coffee from local farms, but also traditional handmade crafts and clothing on display, along with performances of local dances. This is the area of the famous ‘Flowermen’ and many are adorned with flowers on their heads in colourful crowns. The festival is a delight for all the senses, taking place for a week in February, bringing together the entire community for a celebration of all things coffee.

Other coffee festivals are popping up too, like the one held in Riyadh by the Saudi Culinary Arts Commission in September. Saudi designated 2022 as the Year of Saudi Coffee and since this the growth of all things coffee has been swift. A huge project to grow over 500,000 coffee bushes and set up a state-of-the-art factory in the Al Baha region will mean even more homegrown coffee to satisfy the huge demand. Plans are also in place for a Coffee Academy to train even more people in the homegrown coffee industry.

Coffee in Saudi isn’t just about traditional Saudi Coffee (or Arabic coffee as it used to be known). Modern international styles of coffee can be found everywhere too. Cafes serving the highest quality coffee are popping up constantly. These really are ‘the place to be’, the hottest destination. I have seen red carpets, bright spotlights and even security guards ushering crowds for the opening of a new cafe (Overdose Specialty Coffee). Many roast their own beans too so the smell as you enter these highly designed coffee houses is sublime. Coffee is served with style and is delicious. Even if you don’t drink coffee, a visit to one of the trendy cafes is a must.

Practical information

Visas

It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

Getting there & around

With plenty of direct flight links from the UK to Saudi, it’s really easy to get to the country. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.

Local customs

To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

Weather

You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September.

FAQ

Is English spoken in Saudi?

Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

What is the currency of Saudi?

The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?

We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

What’s the time difference in Saudi?

Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.