Here’s why you should visit Armenia in the autumn
From a hot air balloon festival to hot springs, discover why Armenia is especially exciting in the autumn
Words by Tom Allen
Armenia, a mountainous and welcoming nation at the crossroads of Eurasia, embodies the saying “good things come in small packages”. While it’s still an emerging destination for Western visitors, exploring this South Caucasus republic has never been more accessible. From the strollable streets of downtown Yerevan to the temperate forests and alpine meadows of its highlands, Armenia offers a surprising range of experiences stretching long into autumn. These are lands steeped in history, boasting a burgeoning food and wine scene, renowned for one of the warmest welcomes you’ll find anywhere in the world.
Celebrate at unique local festivals
Autumn in Armenia brings with it a gentle warmth and crisp air. There are fewer crowds at historical sites and beauty spots. Autumn also brings more comfortable road travel, easier access, and quieter, better-value accommodation. Yerevan shines at this time of year, with clearer skies and a shallow sun offering spectacular views of Ararat, the iconic biblical mountain overlooking Armenia’s capital. If the panorama from the top of the Yerevan Cascade’s 572 steps isn’t enough, you can take to the skies as part of the International Balloon Festival held each October, an unforgettable way to see the city and Armenia’s beautiful landscapes. On a good day, you may even see the iconic Garni Temple.
Back on the ground, as Armenian traditional life remains steadfastly seasonal, an autumn road trip is likely to lead you to regional festivals such as the Areni Wine Festival, held a couple of hours from the capital in the central Vayots Dzor province. Areni is home to the world’s oldest known winery over 6,100 years old, which was discovered in Areni-1 Cave Complex.
You can read about all the exciting festivals taking place in Armenia on the Armenia Travel website.
Hike and cycle along golden trails
Outdoor lovers poring over maps of rugged Armenia will be pleased to hear of a boom in trail construction. Hundreds of kilometres of waymarked and signposted footpaths now criss-cross many of the most spectacular natural landscapes, with a rapidly growing bike route network close behind. While autumn in the mountains may bring cooler temperatures, it’s actually one of the best times to hit the trails. It’s an ideal time to be alone on the trails, there are fewer biting insects, and – if you time it right, with mid-October being the sweet spot – you’ll witness a jaw-dropping display of autumn colours as the broadleaf forests transform from solid green to a shimmering array of yellows, browns, and reds.
Highlights include the beech and oak forests of Dilijan National Park, which stun local and international visitors alike with a blaze of gold before the winds sweep in. Similar scenes can be found in Khosrov Forest State Reserve, the Lori province’s Debed Canyon and its side valleys, Syunik province’s misty Vorotan Canyon with its cliff-hugging Tatev Monastery, and on the slopes of Mount Khustup. For long-distance trekking enthusiasts who love camping, the 819km Armenia section of the new Transcaucasian Trail is ideal for long-distance enthusiasts, and offers an unforgettable journey through Armenia’s landscapes.
Wind down and prioritise wellness
Travellers who are conscious of health and wellness should know that Armenia has a centuries-long reputation as a place for retreat and recuperation. Perhaps the best-known spot is the small mountain town of Jermuk, whose name translates to “warm spring.” There are many wellness centres, spas and hotels as well as the open-air natural hot springs that are hard to beat on a cool autumn afternoon, nestled in a forested valley a short hike or 4×4 ride from the town. Back in Jermuk, a public mineral water “gallery” provides naturally carbonated drinking water of various temperatures and minerals that are said to have healing properties. Remember to dress warmly: at over 2,000m elevation, the climate is markedly chillier than in the capital.
Jermuk isn’t the only source of mineral water or wellness opportunities. Lake Sevan provides a bracing dip at any time of year, and the Hrazdan gorge is home to several hot springs at Arzakan, Hankavan, and Bjni, among others. Tsaghkadzor, best known as a winter resort, features plenty of luxury hotels with on-site spa facilities at off-season prices during autumn.
Marvel at storied monasteries and ancient castles
Armenia’s heritage sites are so numerous, it can be hard to choose where to start. A handful in particular deserve special attention, and if visited on an autumn weekday will be even more peaceful than usual. Lori province offers a menu of sights within close proximity, from the well-known UNESCO World Heritage Haghpat and Sanahin monasteries to the lesser-known Kobayr and Hnevank.
Beyond the established trail networks, a day trip to Dashtadem Fortress in the southern outskirts of Dashtadem village in the Aragatsotn Province offers vast panoramas on a clear day. Smbataberd Fortress nestles in the valleys of Vayots Dzor where warmer weather clings on, with a mesmerising gorge walk to nearby Shativank. If you’re overnighting in Vayots Dzor, prioritise an early-morning visit to Noravank to take in the famous monastery and its red-rock surroundings amidst an atmospheric autumnal dawn.
Savour the fresh, farm-to-table autumnal flavours
Far from Yerevan’s active restaurant scene and cosmopolitan cafés, it’s in provincial homestays, gastroyards and guesthouses that you’ll really immerse yourself in Armenian cuisine. The table will be laden with home-grown produce and seasonal specialities, with dining culture centred around generously served sharing platters.
Dairy will feature prominently, including matsoon (similar to yoghurt), sour cream, and matured cheeses and herbs wrapped in UNESCO-recognised lavash bread, stockpiled in mountain smallholdings and brought home at the end of summer. Meat is often combined with fresh or dried fruit and aromatic herbs in hearty stews, accompanied by side dishes of ancient grains such as bulgur and emmer wheat. Autumn specialities include ghapama (baked pumpkins stuffed with honeyed rice, nuts and dried fruits) and tolma, vine or cabbage leaves wrapped around savoury meat or vegan fillings. Wild vegetables foraged earlier in the year and pickled will be brought out alongside jars of preserved soft fruit in syrup.
Autumn sees the last wave of fresh fruit, including several Indigenous grape varieties as well as quinces, apples, and both domesticated and wild pears. Late season sees rich red pomegranates and sweet persimmons sent up from the lowland orchards in picturesque regions like Syunik. Armenia’s culinary strengths lie in simplicity of preparation, respect for quality ingredients, and enjoying meals with merriment.
Discover Armenia’s wine heritage
A trip to Armenia’s wine country would not be complete without visiting the world’s oldest known winery. Named Areni-1 by archaeologists, this remarkable cave system is now open to the public. First explored by an Armenian-Irish team in 2007-2010, the discovery of large-scale winemaking speaks to a longer history of viticulture than is often imagined, with the oldest discoveries carbon-dated to 6,100 years ago.
Both the cave and the nearby village take their name from the Indigenous Sev Areni grape, Armenia’s signature variety and one of the world’s oldest. The post-Soviet resurgence in Armenian winemaking has had Areni at its centre, with vineyards originally producing brandy grapes now supplying a new wave of modern wineries. Many of these can be visited, with guided tours of vineyards and winemaking facilities of various scales, as well as expert-led wine tasting sessions.
Finally, if you’re passing through during the grape harvest, don’t miss the opportunity to try matcharr’, a type of semi-fermented young wine.
Learn from local artisans and inherited traditions
Many beloved Armenian recipes can be learned through the masterclasses on offer throughout the country. Tolma-making is an excellent social activity, as is the rolling and cutting of sweet gata pastries prior to baking. Perhaps better spectated than attempted is lavash bakery, a mesmerising process in which the ubiquitous flatbread is expertly stretched, flash-baked in a scorching Tonir, a traditional Armenian oven, and then stacked.
Armenian arts and crafts workshops provide yet more opportunities to engage with local traditions, from the carpet-weaving workshops to ceramics workshops in Gyumri (as well as khachkar making, which is traditional cross stone) and Sisian and woodworking in Dilijan’s historic quarter. Visitors more drawn to music and dance won’t be disappointed either: traditional Armenian circle dancing is a staple of any celebration, learning it a rite of passage for young Armenians, and classes for visitors easily found. Also, on almost every last Friday of the month everyone comes together at the Cascade Complex, or an indoor location in the colder months, to dance together for the evening; this merriment is open for everyone to join in.
