10 ways to experience the Dordogne Valley this autumn

With its hilltop villages, storybook châteaux and serene countryside, the Dordogne Valley in south-western France (around a two-hour drive from Bordeaux or Toulouse) delivers all the necessary ingredients for the perfect holiday. Covering Corrèze, Lot and Dordogne, this corner of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine and Occitanie region is popular in summer but it’s during autumn that the region truly shines. The forested banks of the Dordogne River turn a medley of golden colours, local markets burst with shiny fresh produce and lively festivals take place. And with several weekly flights from various UK airports to Brive-La-Gaillarde airport and Bergerac airport, plus easy train connections from London, it’s never been easier to access.

The Dordogne Valley has long been home to talented artisans creating beautiful works of art, from traditional pottery and basketry to soap making, wood turning and hand-blown glass. Artisanal boutiques showcasing finely crafted local products line the streets in many of the region’s pretty villages but one of the best places to see artists at work is the annual NAMMA Arts and Crafts Fair. Held in October in the charming village of Terrasson, the free three-day event invites 60 of the best regional artists to display their work.

The labyrinthine cobbled lanes of medieval Sarlat-la-Canéda have remained unchanged for centuries. The capital of the Périgord Noir region is a glorious, tangled network of gold-stoned streets and ginnels, charming squares and honey-hued buildings punctuated by grand monuments and the Sarlat Cathedral. Learn the stories behind this “Town of Art and History” with a local guide who can pinpoint some of the city’s most famous sights including the central Sainte-Marie Church and the Marché aux Oies (Goose Market Square), home to a life-size statue of three bronze geese.

The golden-stone village of Aubazine sits in the south-west of the Corrèze department surrounded by dense forests and rocky outcrops. It’s best known for its extraordinarily well-preserved Cistercian Abbey founded by the hermit and priest Saint Etienne in the 12th century. Equally famous is the ingenious irrigation system, the Canal des Moines, devised by the monks to supply the abbey with water. Less well-known are the village’s links to fashion: the designer Coco Chanel spent seven years growing up in the abbey-turned-orphanage and it’s here that she learned to sew.

Slow down and savour the Dordogne Valley from two different vantage points. Lift off with Got2Fly and watch as the region’s rural idyll is revealed beneath you, a serene mirage of rolling hills and oak forests, sun-baked bastides and corduroy-striped vineyards. Then, join veteran river guide Patrick Lakatos for a trip along the winding Dordogne River. As you paddle past green riverbanks and fairytale châteaux, Patrick will reveal the secrets of this mighty waterway including the ancient caves and fossils that make this corner of France so unique.

There are few more enjoyable ways of seeing the Dordogne Valley than on two feet. The region delivers more than 600km of hiking paths, winding trails of varying degrees of difficulty that showcase the beauty of rural France. The challenging 945km-long GR46 passes through the Dordogne Valley following the gentle curves of the Vézère River from Lacelle in the north to Turenne, one of the “plus beaux villages de France”. Experienced hikers may attempt the entire 150km or simply pick and choose sections of the pretty trail to enjoy.

‘La Vallée de l’Homme’ (Valley of Man) in the Vézère Valley is world-renowned for its collections of prehistoric sites, among them the ancient cave paintings of Lascaux that have been called the “Sistine chapel of prehistory”. Now a UNESCO Grand Site of France, the region is best discovered by bicycle with two routes to choose from. The gentle 23km-long Greenway follows the curves of the Vézère River from Les Eyzies to Saint-Chamassy while the more challenging 37km-long Cycle Route from Les Eyzies to Coly will appeal to more experienced cyclists.

Walnuts have been growing in the Dordogne Valley for thousands of years, the thick-trunked trees thriving in the region’s sunny climate and producing nuts with a deep, rich, creamy flavour. So tasty are La Noix du Périgord that they have their own protected (AOP) status. Discover some of the ways walnuts are used with an immersive visit to Domaine Bocerno who produce organic walnut oil. In Corrèze, the family-run Denoix Distillery has been creating liqueurs since 1839, aging crushed walnuts in oak barrels for up to five years.

The Dordogne Valley produces some of the country’s richest foods, notably truffles and foie gras. Other specialities include cep mushrooms, walnuts and raspberries. Get a taste of these and more at the Saturday morning market in Brive where rows of stalls sit underneath colourful awnings, piled high with local produce, including everything from Cabécou cheese to Monalisa potatoes grown in Saint-Bonnet-la-Rivière. The nearby permanent Halle Gaillarde is another top shopping spot for speciality patisserie, home-made charcuterie and freshly pressed apple juice, as well as a tasty lunch stop.

Transport yourself back to the Middle Ages during the ‘Fête des Bastides et du Vin’, a colourful three-day festival held at the end of October to celebrate the historical fortified towns and wines of the region. Taking place in villages and castles across the Dordogne Valley, the lively celebration involves a medley of themed events from wine tasting and tours in local vineyards to themed banquets, craft markets and concerts in one of the many medieval towns. Best of all are the festivals held within castle walls.

Rocamadour PDO Goat Cheese is not only one of the oldest cheeses in the Dordogne Valley but also one of the tastiest with subtle flavours of cream, butter and hazelnut. The history of this delicate cheese dates to the 15th century when it was so highly prized that it was used to pay taxes. Discover what makes it so good with a visit to the award-winning Ferme de Mordesson. Located in Rignac, the farm welcomes visitors for tours of the grounds that include the twice-daily milking of goats and cheese tasting.