33 hours of downtime on the ferry to Spain
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“It’s definitely not the wine,” a fellow passenger told me as they boing-boinged their way along a corridor. We both laughed. This, I came to realise, is the standard ‘ferry walk’ when the sea is, let’s say, at its most playful. You quickly understand why there are handrails everywhere on ferries. It was my first time travelling to Europe on Brittany Ferries’ overnighter from Portsmouth to Santander: two nights on the way out, one night on the return journey.
Check-in, customs and immigration was a breeze, relatively speaking, at Portsmouth Ferry Terminal – certainly less of an ordeal than the standard airport experience. And it was a Friday night, so the onboard bar was already buzzing. Indeed, the spirit of camaraderie on a ferry definitely beats the jostle for overhead cabin space on your average flight.
First things first, I checked out my new home: the Santoña ferry. For the outbound journey, I was in a club cabin complete with window. I’m not sure if there’s anything more pleasing than the sound of the sea as you drift off to sleep, or the sight of waves crashing outside while you’re cosy inside. The cabin and en suite was neat, clean and compact – everything you need and nothing you don’t. There was also video-on-demand and wifi (limited free time, then chargeable).
I headed straight up to the top deck to catch the views and breathe in the night air. It was dark and the skyline was all a-twinkle as we sailed out of Portsmouth harbour and into the English Channel. Back in the Plaza Mayor bar, I sussed out the entertainment programme: there was a morning stretch, trivia quiz, evening cabaret, board games, kids’ craft activities. It was like being at camp – or on a cruise without the commitment, knowing you’ll get off in a couple of days.
Dinner was in the Commodore C-Club Lounge, a perk of the club cabin booking, where food and drink is included. With a limited number of passes for non-club-cabin guests, it’s wise to book early. On entering, I was greeted by a life-size ‘Menina’ sculpture, created by Spanish pop artist Felipao. Inspired by the Baroque painter Diego Velázquez’s masterpiece ‘Las Meninas’ (which resides in Madrid’s Prado Museum and depicts a royal court scene during the reign of King Philip IV), the sculpture is one of several homages to local culture onboard. There’s also a virtual interactive exhibition called the House of Las Meninas to devour.
I helped myself to fresh salad, pasta and wine before returning for coffee and cake. As well as the lounge, there’s also the Azul fine-dining restaurant for three-course meals; Taberna de Tapas for, well, tapas, but also sandwiches, salads, soups, pasta, paella and more; and the Plaza Mayor bar. While the food is reasonably priced, eating onboard can add up, and I soon spotted several passengers cunningly armed with cool bags containing snacks and food that could last a day or so.
As bedtime beckoned, I headed to my cabin with a full belly, navigating the corridors and stairs with my newfound ‘ferry walk’. Wine or waves, who knows? What happens on the Santoña stays on the Santoña. It’s exciting to think that the ferry can arrive directly at the beautiful cities of either Bilbao or Santander. Bilbao is set to a backdrop of green mountains and is home to the iconic Guggenheim Museum. Santander is home to the grand Magdalena Palace, once Spain’s royal summer residence, and the pleasant Paseo Pereda promenade, which runs alongside the refreshing Pereda Gardens.
In the morning, after nodding off lulled by the rocking of the ship and the sound of the sea, I took a walk around the deck. Surrounded by nothing but the big blue ocean, I realised how frenetic life at home was, and couldn’t remember the last occasion when I felt time move this slowly. Unlike on a flight, you’re aware of every single mile you’re travelling when you’re on a ship; the next moment, you’re downloading an app, tracking your journey and ship-spotting. Later that day, back on the deck, nature treated us to a deep orange sunset, its fiery hues slowly spreading across the sky.
I was travelling at the start of spring, but during the warmer months there’s a good chance of seeing whales. Brittany Ferries is a partner with ORCA, an organisation that protects whales, dolphins and porpoises around the world, and the ferry even includes a dedicated education room.
In-season, there are experts onboard to help you make wildlife sightings, especially in the Bay of Biscay, which is one of the best spots for catching a glimpse of a playful cetacean. In fact, on the return leg, we were treated to a pod of playful dolphins ducking and diving in the waters around the ship. Wildlife aside, the top deck also has an outdoor gym, if you’re inclined to move a little faster. Other facilities on the ship include indoor and outdoor children’s play areas, a Duty Free shop and a new cinema (payable).
It’s tricky to calculate the carbon footprint of a ferry voyage, as it depends on the ferry, its age and the combination of people, cars and cargo. However, the Santoña (which I sailed on) and Salamanca are brand-new ships and the first ferries from the UK to use Liquefied Natural Gas (LNG) instead of diesel. This is considered one of the cleaner fuels in the shipping industry; plus, there are also efforts being made onboard to reduce water wastage and single-use plastic.
On overnight ferries, passengers must book a cabin or a lounge seat (which reclines) to travel – there is strictly no sleeping on chairs or loungers, airport-style. Cabins include standard, deluxe and even pet versions, which have an animal bed and are located close to an exercise area (these feature on six ferries, including those on the UK-Spain route). The journey takes anything between 20 and 36 hours, depending on the route taken and the departure time. Ferries usually sail twice a week to both Bilbao and Santander from Portsmouth; two times a week from Plymouth to Santander; and twice a week from Rosslare (Ireland) to Bilbao.
Brittany Ferries, Santoña (Photo by Andrew Williamson)
After a second night’s sleep, I awoke to the sounds of ‘Dihun – Le Réveil’ by Carlos Núñez, a track from his Celtic Sea album. This is the ship’s wake-up call on the day of arrival. We were finally in Santander after a day and a half of, relatively speaking, smooth sailing. The city slowly came into view and there was a palpable sense of having ‘travelled’ to get here – even if that ‘travel’ mostly involved eating, drinking and sleeping.
At the end of the day, 33 hours on a ferry might not be everyone’s copa de vino (even if that wine is on tap) – after all, why travel for 33 hours when you could do it in two? But, as a self-confessed productivity fiend who is constantly trying to maximise time, slowing right down before my escape began in earnest turned out to be a great way to get into the holiday mood. The return journey was just as rewarding, offering a chance to process the trip and quieten the mind before being spat back out into everyday life. There’s a lot to be said for this super-slow-mo way of travel.
Need to know
Brittany Ferries offers two sailings a week (one or two nights on board) on the following routes: Portsmouth–Bilbao, Portsmouth–Santander, Plymouth–Santander (the shortest crossing; one night each way) and Rosslare (Ireland)–Bilbao.
More information
Sample fares from Portsmouth to Santander start from £360 one-way for a car plus two people in an en-suite cabin; foot passengers from £189 one-way with a reclining seat. Club lounge entry is from £35 per person (included with Club cabins). You can book up to ten months in advance via brittany-ferries.co.uk or on the phone (0330 159 7000).
If you want to access specific facilities (such as a pet-friendly or Club cabin), it’s worth booking ahead. Early Bird fares apply 60 days or more before sailings, but you can find good deals if you keep an eye on any offers.
Glossary
Sustainability
The quality of being able to continue over a period of time, or the avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological balance (Camrbdige Dictionary).
