7 ways to discover Angola, Africa’s best-kept secret

Angola is no longer defined by its civil war, which ended a generation ago. This is a country of extraordinary depth, with a vast cultural heritage and incredible wildlife, and it feels like it is finally ready to step into the limelight. Despite 50 years of independence, Angola’s cities and national parks are still untouched by mass tourism. What you’ll find instead are authentic interactions in southern Africa’s most diverse nation, as well as seven of the continent’s nine biomes. Travellers can experience everything from dazzling carnivals and sensuous kizomba beats to crowd-free safaris. So, get ready to explore Africa’s rising star.

At two-thirds the size of South Africa’s Kruger National Park, and just a couple of hours’ drive from capital Luanda’s new international airport, Quiçama (or Kissama) National Park is Angola’s most accessible safari spot. The park’s animals were decimated during the war, but populations have rebounded since – even if the secret has yet to get out. Elephant and eland herds numbering in the hundreds, plus zebra, wildebeest and buffalo, can be seen without any other vehicles in sight, ensuring an intimate game drive. In the desert further south, camera lenses focus on Angolan giraffes in Iona National Park, where the non-profit African Parks is busy planning the reintroduction of lions and rhinos.

It says a lot about where Angola is at that there is still only one major road connecting the capital to Kalandula Falls, one of Africa’s largest cascades, as high (105m) as Victoria Falls and almost 400m wide. The sight of 550 cubic metres of water a second crashing into the gorge below is a spectacular addition to any itinerary. A trip there is easily combined with the ‘Black Rocks’ of Pungo Andongo, whose dark and imposing forms offer an eye-catching contrast to the surrounding lush savannah. Elsewhere, Tundavala Gap is a vertigo-inducing, 1,000m-deep gorge cut out of the Chela Escarpment and patrolled by booted eagles. Both are unmissable.

With more than 1,600km of largely pristine Atlantic coastline, the beach is never far from anyone’s thoughts. Luanda’s residents is search of R&R head to the bar-heavy Ilha do Cabo peninsula, pointing finger-like into the Atlantic for 8km. On escaping the capital, residents often hit the beaches of tranquil Mussulo Island or Cabo Ledo. The latter is making a name for itself as a global surf hub, thanks to the presence of one of the world’s longest point breaks – a wave that can run for over half a kilometre. For something a little different, organise a tour of the abandoned town on remote Ilha dos Tigres, an old fishing settlement cut off after a storm destroyed the isthmus connecting it to the mainland. Its ghostly church, surrounded by shifting sands, is a haunting sight.

As the rainforests and baobabs of Angola’s north give way to the dunes of the south, the land takes on a different character. From the gateway town of Namibe (Moçamedes), desert-adapted Welwitschia mirabilis plants – growing a millimetre a year – line the road to the Vale dos Espíritos (Valley of the Spirits). Also known as colinas (hills) and reminiscent of the USA’s Arches National Park, wind-shaped red rock formations dot the narrow valley. It makes for a phenomenal location to camp overnight, gazing into pollution- free skies in search of constellations such as the Southern Cross.

Treks following routes plied for centuries are an alternative way of experiencing Iona National Park. Local guides bring sound, scent and touch to the fore amid the banks of the ever-important River Cunene, as you visit dune seas and traditional villages of vernacular architecture inhabited by Mucabal and Himba peoples. Elsewhere, the otherworldly succession of spikey rock formations at Miradouro da Lua, better known as a scenic viewpoint on the road between Quiçama National Park and Luanda, hits peak ‘wow’ in the golden glow of sunrise and sunset. It also offers up some excellent short hikes through the surreal moonscape.

Music runs deep in the Angolan psyche, and has been described as an integral part of the local identity. Rarely will a traveller have to wait more than a few minutes to witness spontaneous song or dance, whether on the road, on the street or in a local market. Although home-grown rap dominates the airwaves as far as Angola’s youth is concerned, similarly fast-paced semba (the origins of Brazilian samba) and the smooth sound of kizomba, a fusion of Angolan semba with Caribbean zouk, is easy enough to encounter. Live performances, together with kizomba’s sensual accompanying dance, are common in Luanda’s nightspots, and hit a climax before Carnival.

Cities including Luanda, Benguela and Lubango are where contemporary Angolan culture is at its most creative. Alongside the vibrant nightlife – look no further than the capital’s Ilha do Cabo on the weekend – independent art galleries have consistently cropped up across the city, promoting a new generation of Angolan artists. When it comes to food, head to the marketplaces, tucked between elegant colonial-era churches and shining tower blocks, to see the building blocks of Angolan cuisine. Try tapas-style beef strips of pica pau or gindungo chilli peppers, ground into a spicy paste and served as a condiment to modern takes on traditional dishes such as kissuto rombo (roasted goat) and cacusso (grilled tilapia). Your taste buds will thank you.