7 ways to savour the flavour of Gothenburg and West Sweden
There are many good reasons to visit fun-loving Gothenburg and West Sweden, but its food scene, synonymous with freshly caught seafare enjoyed in the ruggedly beautiful archipelago, is the only excuse you need. Read on for all the most unmissable culinary hotspots in this Scandi summer paradise…
1: Feast on fresh seafood
Seafood from West Sweden is world class. The northern climate and chilly waters off the west coast produce the tastiest prawns, langoustine, lobster, mussels, oysters – and fantastic fish, of course. But these aren’t the only delicacies sourced from the sea – there’s also edible seaweed, packed with vitamins and minerals. Grown wild and hand harvested, the salty greens can be enjoyed fresh or dried. Intrigued? Head out on a seaweed safari to sample it for yourself. Prefer molluscs and crustaceans? A shellfish day trip in the archipelago is a chance to assist a local fisherman in preparing the langoustine and lobster pots or harvesting oysters and mussels.
2: Experience the fika culture
In Sweden, a coffee break, known as ‘fika’, is a sacred daily ritual – in fact, two per day is standard. Gothenburg has a bustling café scene, with more Instagrammable coffee houses than you could possibly tick off in one trip. Don’t miss the oversized cinnamon buns at Café Husaren in the charming neighbourhood Haga, or Brogyllen, one of the fanciest cafés in the city, decked out with crystal chandeliers and serving all the classic pastries, cookies and baked goods. Prefer a small-town vibe? Just 40 minutes by train from Gothenburg is Alingsås, “the capital of fika”. Cobbled streets, cosy courtyards, and cafés such as Ekstedts make it well worth a day trip.
3: Stroll Gothenburg’s iconic fish market
Few landmarks are as iconic in Gothenburg as its fish market, Feskekörka (“Fish Church”) dating back to 1874 and named after its neo-Gothic architecture reminiscent of ancient Nordic stave churches. After a few years’ closure, the building has been repurposed to include several restaurants. Among the fish counters you’ll now also find traditional Swedish dishes as well as contemporary Nordic cuisine and street food at eateries such as Haldis Kök (try the prawn sandwich) and Ekmans bar, where you should order the herring and oysters. The west coast delicacies pair perfectly with the selection of wines, craft beers and cocktails.
4: Sample pints in Sweden’s beer capital
Speaking of beer, Gothenburg is also a pint lover’s paradise, as it’s home to numerous independent craft breweries and myriad pubs and bars serving every kind of ale, lager and specialty hop juice you could wish for. Locals recommend 3 Små Rum, a stone’s throw from the main boulevard Avenyn, Brewers Beer Bar (in two central locations) and O/O Bar in the Majorna area. Switching things up a gear, on Fridays and Saturdays you can dine and taste new beers at Vega Taproom in Ringön, a trendy new neighbourhood with a shipyard past. Better still, why not time your visit to coincide with Gothenburg Brewers Guild Beer Festival or A Beer & Whisky Fair?
5: Treat yourself at a Michelin-starred restaurant
Currently, five Gothenburg restaurants have been awarded a star in the prestigious Michelin Guide, and the accolades have put the city on the international food map. To sample the award-winning West Swedish gastronomy for yourself, make a booking at SK Mat och Människor, Project, or Koka, which serves largely meat-free and sustainably focused cuisine in central Gothenburg. A short walk away you’ll also find Restaurang 28+, the Swedish restaurant that has maintained its star status in the guide for the longest time, since 1991. The newest addition in West Sweden is Signum in Mölnlycke, which made it into the guide in 2023 thanks to its tasting menu inspired by the four elements.
6: Dine by the sea in Bohuslän county
What could be more romantic than al fresco dining by the sea? Salt & Sill restaurant on Klädesholmen island has one of the best locations on the west coast. Enjoy the signature herring platter and other delicacies, inches from the water’s edge. And if it’s mussels you crave, make a beeline for Musselbaren in Smögen, an old fishing village an hour and a half’s drive north of Gothenburg. Its 600-metre-long boardwalk is lined with open-fronted fishmongers’ shops, cafés and restaurants. The truly adventurous, however, will want to head the furthest out you can get in the archipelago. On a windswept skerry stands Pater Noster lighthouse, dating back to 1868 and redeveloped into a design hotel with sauna and hot tubs outside. An overnight package includes champagne on arrival, a guided island tour, lunch, and a four-course dinner made with fresh ingredients from the sea and the island’s kitchen gardens.
7: Embark on a foodie road trip in West Sweden
Nothing beats the thrill of a road trip, and in West Sweden foodies should explore the Läckö-Kinnekulle area where the pretty little town of Lidköping by Lake Vänern is the perfect starting point. Enjoy a leisurely lunch at Mellbygatans restaurant, known for its beef tartare, before travelling on to Kållandsö island for a spot of history at Läckö Castle. Stay the night at the nature centre in its lush grounds and continue on to nearby Spiken fishing village to sample some freshly smoked fish and bleak roe in the picturesque harbour, or dine in a converted boat hut at Restaurang Sjöboden. Lastly, don’t miss the “flowering mountain”, Kinnekulle, and Forshems Gästgivaregård, Sweden’s oldest inn dating back to 1564, where everything on the menu – from the venison to the veg – is locally sourced.
