The history of Souq Waqif

A fire engulfed what was left of the original Souq Waqif in 2003. The original sprawl of trade and transit had fallen by the wayside as Qatar grew in population and prosperity and the commercial district had been partially abandoned since the late 20^th century. It was after the fire, when Qatar had committed to conserving their cultural heritage, that the market was rebuilt in earnest. The modern iteration you’ll find today was constructed with that heritage in mind – it’s visible in the thick mason walls, the mangrove roofs, the natural stone. Thin alleyways cut between the sand-washed storefronts, reminiscent of the narrow laneways that weave labyrinthine through the souqs, kasbahs, and bazaars that have stood across the Arab world for centuries.

When it was first founded, the souq was made to facilitate trade between the nomadic tribes that pitch their homes across the Arabian desert. It was only a hub of activity on the weekends, when the Bedouin would make their way to Msheirib to sell their wares and peruse the offerings of the fishermen that populated the Qatari coast. It’s still possible to see the vestiges of those early tradesmen in the modern market, in the woven sadu rugs splayed on the souq floor or in the pearls on gleaming display.

The highlights of Souq Waqif

Falcon Souq
Some 10,000 years ago, humans broke away from their most primitive model of hunter-gatherer survival. Wrangling falcons, teaching them to pounce on fast-moving targets in tandem with their tamer, humans evolved as masters of their environment. The knowledge of falconry was disseminated across cultures, becoming integral to survival in protein-poor landscapes from the Mongol Steppe to the southern Sahara. In the modern peninsula, falconry is no longer a life-or-death matter. It’s a high-class sport, the “sport of Kings”. Tradesmen in Souq Waqif’s Falcon Souq operate specialist shops, selling top-of-the-range birds, falconry equipment and hosting falcon tours.

Wander its ancient alleyways
Despite its modern construction, Souq Waqif was built as an ode to Qatari heritage. It was designed to transport traders to the medieval muqarna-crowned bazaar of Tabriz or the tight, wares-laden laneways of Jerusalem’s ancient markets. Colourful, chaotic markets have filled every caravanserai from North Africa to the Indian subcontinent for centuries, and Souq Waqif pays homage to Qatar’s place in that ancient chain. Explore the narrow alleys that lace through the souq, pausing to admire the spindling lanterns with delicate stained-glass designs and inhale over burlap sacks stuffed full of spices.

Explore the Souq Waqif Art Centre
Within the bounds of Souq Waqif, the eponymous Art Centre is adorned with contemporary and traditional Qatari works. Its exhibitions walk visitors through millennia of artistic inspiration, stepping through different eras of stylistic influence and technical prowess from across the peninsula. Since opening in 2013, the centre has spotlighted Qatari art through regular exhibitions, workshops, courses, and presentations. Roam the hall to peruse elaborate Arabic calligraphy painted in the traditional tones of white and blue, or to examine handicrafts meticulously constructed using ancient Arabian techniques. Alternatively, attend a workshop or a symposium if you have an adept hand and want to gain an up-close perspective on Qatari artistic techniques.

Etiquette tips

In the hub of Qatari heritage, Qatari traditions and Qatari etiquette must also be abided by. As in the case in any destination in the country, visitors should be conscious to emulate the locals in their dress choices. While it isn’t strictly legally enforced, modesty is crucial to the culture, and both men and women should be mindful to cover down to their elbows and knees. There are also customs to consider when bargaining in the market. Haggling is a part of the experience, it’s expected. There is always a takfid on the table once an initial price is quoted, but remember to respect the time and wares of the artisan in question.

Where to eat in Souq Waqif

Within the bounds of Souq Waqif, virtually every Middle Eastern cuisine is on offer. Start with local street food favourites in the central courtyard, where vendors stuff vine leaves and pour over steaming pots of spiced meat stews. Delve into Yemeni delicacies while sitting cross-legged on the carpeted floor of Bandar Aden, including dishes slow-stewed under the Arabian sands. Gorge on saffron-basted grilled meats and indulgent Iranian stews in ornate Parsia, replete with a central fountain plucked straight from a Persian paradise garden. Work your way through myriad Moroccan mezze at Argan Restaurant and dunk fresh breads into flavourful Syrian dips at Damasca One. Like Souq Waqif itself, the food scene inside pays homage to the heritage of the entire region, not solely to Qatar.

Cap off your Middle Eastern dinner of choice with something sweet to pair with an Arabic coffee, ubiquitous across the region. Visit Al Aker Sweets and select a treat sweetened with pistachio or honey, rose water or almond. They serve up traditional options like knafeh and baklava, plated as coffee pours from decorative dallah pots. Finish off the night on a cozy sadu cushion in one of the souq’s popular shisha lounges, which stay busy late into the night.