NATURE & OUTDOORS
A first timer's guide to driving in Saudi
Driving in Saudi is a thrilling mix of city driving and scenic routes through deserts and mountains, all made accessible by a good road network.
Words by Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey
Hiring a car in Saudi is just as straightforward as in most other countries. The main airports have a slew of rental companies vying for business and as long as you have the same credit card you used to reserve your car online, and a valid driving license or an international driving license, then you are good to go. As for the validity of your personal driving license, that depends on the country it was issued in, so, UK and EU are valid, but if you cannot verify this beforehand, bring your international driving license just in case.
Whether you intend to drive in the cities or long-distance, I would personally always opt for the largest car you can afford, preferably a 4×4, because it is safer, more reliable, and may well get you out of a sticky situation, such as a camel or sand on the road. Bear in mind that if you are not returning the car to the same place as you picked it up there may be additional charges. Excess miles can also incur additional charges, so check the details when you collect the car.
Within the large cities, it may well look like complete chaos at first, but there is a method to the madness, and most main roads are dual carriage ways, and most signs are in both Arabic and English. Many drivers think that indicators are optional extras, so be aware and anticipate people cutting across you at times.
Outside of the cities, all main regional towns are linked by big highways, often three-lane dual carriage ways but can also unexpectedly change to single lanes in a blink, so be prepared. Again, signs tend to be bilingual, although once you get off the main drags, you may well encounter only Arabic signs. Have a printout of your destination in Arabic on you, because outside of the cities you will find few people who speak English, or at least to an extent of giving good directions. If you intend to have a few more regional adventures, make sure you get either a local SIM or at least roaming on your phone in case you get lost. Having internet so you can use apps like Google Maps and Google Translate is a sensible thing to have and proves very useful.
Distances can be quite long, the weather hot, and in summer, seriously humid, so comfort is key. Loose fitting clothing that covers your shoulders and goes below the knees even for men is only polite once you leave the cities. As a woman, I tend to have an abaya, a long, loose robe, in the car, which is easily thrown on and covers everything nicely. You do not have to cover your hair, but a sunhat – and sunscreen – are advisable even in winter as the sun can be fierce. Comfortable shoes to save your feet from burning sand whenever you stop are useful, as are the odd wet wipes to get the dust off your face.
Always bring as much water as you can carry, and then some. Yes, there are plenty of service stops, but it’s good to be prepared. Fuel stations along the way are manned by staff, so you don’t have to fill up your own tank.
There are plenty of exciting road trips to be enjoyed across Saudi, but one of the best, is driving between the Red Sea port of Jeddah, with its old town and magnificent coastline, north to AlUla, with its oasis setting and ancient archaeological wonders. Driving the length of the Red Sea coast is spectacular and allows side trips into the desert, rock formations and exciting cities and new developments along the way. The journey from Jeddah to AlUla generally takes one of two routes, one via Madinah (which covers the wide dual and triple carriageways until Madinah and then often single from there onwards). The other goes up the coast road until Yanbu and then inland from there. The distances are huge and sometimes there are big gaps between fuel stops, so it’s good to top up fuel regularly and not let the tank get too low.
The Eastern Province, with its Arabian Gulf coastline is also exiting, especially the region in and around the world’s largest oasis, Al Ahsa Oasis, which you can also link with AlUla, via Riyadh, Buraydah and Hail. It is certainly worth crossing from the Arabian Gulf side to the Red Sea coast at least once, simply to appreciate the vastness of the desert, the variety of landscapes, and the diversity of the country.
If you know what you are doing, have the right car, and friends in another car with you, then by all means, go for it, it is great fun. If you have never driven in soft sand, are unused to 4-wheel gears, and the way of steering, don’t know which air-pressure you will need to let the tyres down to depending on the terrain, then, chances are, you’ll get stuck pretty much immediately. And depending on where you are, it may be a while before someone comes past to get you out. Also, if yours is a hire car, it is likely that you will not be allowed to go off the main roads because you won’t be insured for desert or mountain driving.
However, if you have an experienced driver with you to explain the ins and outs, and to get you out of a potentially sticky situation, enjoy. Saudi has some fun deserts to go dune-bashing and really get your adrenaline pumping. Just remember never to go into the desert on your own. If you do, be prepared with extra supplies like plenty of water, fuel and food. Check the spare tyre and tools needed to change it before you go on any journey.
Outside of the cities, look out for camels on the road, especially in the twilight, when they blend in perfectly with their surroundings. They don’t seem to fear cars and often meander into the roads and stay there. It is not only dangerous but also costly to hit one so always slow down when there are camels in the road.
Inside the cities, don’t let yourself be bullied by large, flash cars. Like everywhere in the world, local drivers can get annoyed with people not knowing where they are going. Ignore the flashlights, the honking, and the tailgating, take your time, and please refrain from all hand gestures. Get into the right lane for turning soon enough; don’t leave it until last minute.
Try not to get stuck in sand, which can cover even the busy highways in places, especially after a windy day. Sometimes the entire road surface disappears under the sand but try and either follow the car in front of you, or go around rather than through, if at all possible.
Avoid driving in heavy rain, especially low underpasses and wadis. It can very quickly become very dangerous, so find somewhere to stop safely like a café to let it pass.
Stay within the rules of the road, obey speed limits and don’t jump red lights. The monitoring systems in KSA are sophisticated and you will be fined if you ignore them.
Practical information
Visas
It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).
Getting there & around
You can’t currently fly to the Red Sea directly from the UK, although it’s hoped this will change in the near future. In the meantime, you can fly to the Red Sea from Jeddah (less than an hour) or Riyadh (an hour and a half). With plenty of direct flight links from the UK to Saudi, it’s really easy to get to the country. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.
Local customs
To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.
Weather
You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September.
Is English spoken in Saudi?
Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.
What is the currency of Saudi?
The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.
What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?
We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.
What’s the time difference in Saudi?
Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.
