A slow-travel guide to Menorca

Dial down the pace to explore this Balearic island’s rugged landscapes and long, rich history

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Words by Donna Richardson

Photo by Ricardo Frantz

Seemingly the calmest of all the Balearic Islands, Menorca is the ideal slow-travel destination, where visitors quickly sync to the relaxed pace of life. But don’t mistake the chilled-out atmosphere for indolence: the island has been a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 1993, testament to the efforts made by locals to conserve their cultural heritage and the biodiversity of land and sea.

 

That commitment to sustainability is reflected in the restoration of the Camí de Cavalls – the ancient ‘horse path’ that runs right around the island. But though you should certainly take time to explore the beautiful coastline, with its rust-red and white beaches, golden coves and sapphire waters, don’t neglect the interior.

 

Here you can roam rolling hills and forests, quaint hilltop villages and fascinating historic sites. Without the large-scale package tourism embraced by parts of neighbouring islands, in Menorca travellers can absorb the rich local culture and scenic splendour in peace.

Photo by Héctor J. Rivas

Take the plunge into the clean sea

The clear waters surrounding Menorca are a scuba-diver’s dream, with an abundance of corals, arches, caves and crevices to explore. But these seas need protecting – and during dive excursions with the nonprofit movement 0 Plastic Menorca, volunteers remove discarded plastic from around the coastline, cleaning the environment for marine life. Previous outings collected 50,000 microplastic fragments and over two tonnes of plastic.

Efforts continue on land, encouraging changes in behaviour – reducing the use of plastics, especially single-use, or refusing them altogether – organising beach cleans involving young people, and promoting conscious and responsible tourism. The annual plastic collecting dive excursions depart from Port Mahón, visiting Illa de l’Aire and Cala Rafalet to the south. The movement is a member of the Plastic Free Menorca Alliance, which aims for the island to be plastic-free by 2030.

Small harbour surrounded by houses with small boats docked

Hike the restored Camí de Cavalls

The origins of this ancient path can be traced back to the Middle Ages, when the knights of Menorca were ordered to patrol the coast. That practice was continued by French and British soldiers during occupations across the following centuries. Over the years, parts of the trail then became privatised, inaccessible and, in parts, began to disappear. Fortunately, following government-backed restoration, the full 185km route reopened, allowing hikers, cyclists and horseriders to circumnavigate the entire island.

 

Divided into 20 shorter sections, the trail has boosted the economy of local communities by dispersing tourism across many remote areas. The shortest stretch runs along the north coast from Cala Morell to Algaiarens, a spectacular 5.4km walk beginning at Cala Morell’s prehistoric necropolis and ending at the twin golden-sand beaches of Platja des Tancat and Platja des Bot at Algaiarens.

 

En route, you’ll pass several alluring bays including Codolar de Biniatram and Cala Fontanelles. The longest section winds some 13.5km from Favàritx, its rocky promontory sporting a namesake lighthouse, via pastures and fields to finish at the glorious beach of Arenal d’en Castel.

Women hiking along the dirt roads on mountains by the sea

Photo by Pelayo Arbués

Photo by Juliana Chyzhova

Absorb scenery from the saddle

As well as the Camí de Cavalls, a thrilling ride for mountain-bikers, Menorca has a tantalising range of cycling routes tracing the coast and venturing into woodlands, farmlands and coves. One challenging 40km route loops from the central towns of Ferreries and Es Mercadal to the island’s northernmost tip and its oldest lighthouse, Far de Cavalleria.

 

Pedalling the island’s south-east, you’ll find pristine coves, prehistoric monuments and intriguing settlements such as E Castell and Sant Lluís, linked by an easy 6km ride. Founded by the British in 1771, Es Castell – which guards access to Mahón harbour – was originally called Georgetown after King George III. Sant Lluís, meanwhile, is a picture-perfect traditional Menorcan town with quaint shops and whitewashed houses.

 

Another route rich in history loops south from Trepucó, on Mahón’s southern outskirts, to Mirador de Punta Prima on the island’s southernmost tip. Start from Poblado Talayótico de Trepucó, a Bronze Age settlement home to two conical megalithic talayots (watchtowers) and a tall, T-shaped altar known as a taula. Menorca’s Talayotic culture has now been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Admire the view from horseback

No visit to Menorca would be complete without mounting a horse – specifically the indigenous Cavali Menorquí breed, perfectly suited to exploring the various trails and beaches. There are plenty of options, many offered by specialist tour company Menorca a Cavall. For beginners, the scenic ride along Cala Mitjana is a great introduction – a 90-minute outing visiting one of the world’s finest beaches. A longer route visits Cala Fustam.

 

Experienced riders can enjoy a full day heading to Cala Binigaus, a long, unspoilt beach on the southern coast, saddling up at the company’s farm base, close to the Barranc de Trebalúger, then taking wooded trails that lead to the coast and onto beautiful beaches at Trebalúger, Escorxada, Binigaus, Sant Tomàs and San Adeodato

Explore the island's long history

Mahón, with its blend of Spanish and British influences, is a vibrant city on one of the world’s largest natural harbours. To start your journey back in time, head for Fortaleza Isabel II, the castle also known as La Mola, built between 1850 and 1875 during the reign of that namesake Spanish queen on the site of an earlier British fortress. From here, delve into the labyrinth streets, admiring their Georgian architecture and traditional houses. Here you’ll fine stylish boutiques selling avarcas, simple leather sandals typical of Menorca.

 

Head west right across the island to explore Ciutadella, the second city and Menorca’s capital until the arrival of the British. It’s nicknamed Vella i Bella – the ‘old and beautiful’ – and no wonder, with its honey-hued sandstone homes. The port is lined with traditional shops, bars and restaurants, while the main square, Plaça des Born, is surrounded by historic buildings dating back to the 17th century, such as Palacio Salort and Casa Olivar.

 

Nearby stands the squat, imposing cathedral, with its impressive Baroque façade, and the cool cloisters of Museum Convent de Sant Agustí. For a glimpse of old Menorca, visit the former fishing village of Fornells in the north, now a popular stop-off for sailors.

Buildings up a hill, mostly white with a few colourful ones

Photo by JR Harris

Taste local produce

Mediterranean flavours dominate Menorcan cuisine, but the island’s diverse legacy is reflected in Moorish, French and British flavours, too. The signature dish is caldera de llagosta, a rich soup made with red lobster. Venture inland to traditional villages and you might be offered warming meals of rice, marinated chunks of lamb and slow-cooked aubergine stuffed with meat.

 

Another delicacy is snails with spider crabs – a dish with clear French influences. Menorca is blessed with an abundance of figs. Cheese production on here dates from at least the fifth century; the medium-hard white Mahón variety is buttery, slightly salty and a little nutty. Another treat to look out for is coco bamba, a spiral brioche-like cake dusted with sugar.

 

In Mahón, foodies should head to the Art Deco fish market, try roadside tapas and sample the menus of the various seafood restaurants overlooking the harbour. Menorca is also reputedly the birthplace of mayonnaise – or Mahonesa – the egg-based sauce carried back to Europe in the 18th century by French settlers. Toast your gastronomic tour with Mahón Gin, made in the Xoriguer distillery.

Gate sign

Photo by María Is

Drink in the island's wild natural beauty

Menorca’s landscape is in turns rugged and untamed, bucolic and serene. Away from the cherished coastal paths, hikers venture inland to roam the island’s verdant forests and trails. In the north-east, nature-lovers watch for fish eagles and coots on the lagoon at the Parc Natural S’Albufera des Grau, where you might even spot a tortoise. In the heart of the island’s largest gorge, Barranc d’Algendar, stroll between moss-clad rocks, sheer stone walls and wild olive trees along the Pas d’en Revull near Ferreries.

 

The highest point on the island is El Toro (‘The Bull’), soaring to 358m and topped by a statue of Christ at La Virgen del Toro, from where dramatic views stretch across to neighbouring Mallorca. Far below, an intricate network of caves runs beneath the island and into the sea. The largest is the Cova des Coloms, a subterranean ‘cathedral’ accessed via a 2km walk from Es Migjorn Gran in the central south.

 

Further south-east, around Calescoves, prehistoric tombs are set into rocky ravines, one dating back some three and a half millennia; follow signs painted on the rocks to reach this ancient necropolis. Finally, early risers head to La Mola, the most easterly point in Menorca – indeed, in the Balearic Islands – to witness the first sunrise in Spain.

Photo by Joe Branco

Need to know

When to go

Average summer temperatures are around 25°C, often nudging 30°C in the hottest part of the day. Even in January, temperatures stay around 11°C, so Menorca is a pleasant destination for winter sun.

Getting there & around

Between April and October, several airlines offer direct flights from various UK airports, taking around 2.5–3 hours. Regular ferries sail to both Mahón and Ciutadella from Barcelona; Ciutadella also receives ferries from Alcudia on neighbouring Mallorca. Buses link towns across the island.

Events

A packed calendar of festivals includes the International Jazz Festival (spring), International Film Festival of Menorca, Pedra Viva Performing Arts Festival (June–September), and the Premi Born Theatre Awards (autumn).

 

Various towns host fiestas during the summer, and Easter is celebrated with gusto; festivities begin on Palm Sunday, and processions follow during Semana Santa (Holy Week).

Languages

Menorquin, a dialect of Catalan, is spoken, along with Spanish.

Glossary

The quality of being able to continue over a period of time, or the avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological balance (Camrbdige Dictionary).

This refers to ‘the variability of living organisms, between and within species, and the changeability of the ecosystems to which they belong’ (The Convention on Biological Diversity).
According to the Responsible Tourism Partnership, ‘Responsible Tourism requires that operators, hoteliers, governments, local people and tourists take responsibility, and take action to make tourism more sustainable. Behaviour can be more or less responsible, and what is responsible in a particular place depends on environment and culture’. The concept was defined in Cape Town in 2002 alongside the World Summit on Sustainable Development.
The process of protecting an environment and returning it to its natural state; for example, bringing back wild animals that used to live there (Cambridge Dictionary).
A movement reducing the distance between producers and sales and consumer establishments to a radius of under 100 kilometres, with the aim of minimising the effects that large-scale industry have on the planet, including soil erosion, water pollution, and habitat loss for wild species.
Being ‘green’ is used to describe actions or initiatives that are conducted in a sustainable way, in an attempt to reduce impact on planetary resource limits. However, the word can be used to describe actions or initiatives that do not actively do this, but rather convey an ethos of being planet-friendly; eg being outside, walking or riding a bike. This can be considered ‘greenwashing’ (when an individual or company paints an action as credibly sustainable when, in fact, it is an action that beenfits them, or that should be considered the bare minimum).