阿寒湖
A travel guide to
Akan
“This is a place where the indigenous Ainu culture is not just celebrated, but is at the very heart of life.”
Nestling on the shore of Lake Akan, Akan is a small town quite unlike almost any other in Japan. This is a place where the indigenous Ainu culture is not just celebrated, but is at the very heart of life. Wandering up the snow-piled main street of the Ainu Kotan, an enormous carved owl – the protector of the village in Ainu beliefs – looms overhead, and each rustic shop front is packed with hand-carved wooden sculptures, knick-knacks and embroidery works with Ainu pattern. Back down on the lake front, the water is frozen solid and the lake is a hive of activity as snowmobiles rove back and forth, and people sit cooped up in tents over ice holes fishing for smelt. In the warmer months the lake is famous for marimo – large and spherical balls of green algae – an exceedingly rare phenomena. In every aspect, Akan is a unique place.
Words by Tom Fay, photography by Pete Leong
Ainu culture and tradition
The Akanko Ainu Kotan is the only Ainu settlement in Hokkaido where you can truly feel and see the native Ainu spirit and culture; the main street is lined with Ainu-owned shops and restaurants, and at the theatre at the top of the Kotan slope there is a chance to watch a traditional dance performance. You may even bump into Debo Akibe, a distinctive and bearded Ainu local business owner, woodcarver and movie star who is an ambassador for Ainu traditions. For something a little more hands on, Anytime, Ainutime! is run by Akan Ainu Industrial Arts Association and offers fun Ainu woodcarving experiences and Ainu-guided forest walks for private groups.
“This Ainu village grew as a collaboration between various Ainu groups, who came together to create a place where Ainu culture could be protected, showcased and thrive. I hope that visitors can feel the special connection which the Ainu share with nature amongst these beautiful surroundings.”
– Debo Akibe, Ainu woodcarver and business owner, actor
Soak up sunrise views of Lake Akan and Mount Oakan
What better way to start the day than a guided walk along the edge of Lake Akan, just in time to catch the sun rise above the shapely peak of nearby Mount Oakan? Let the morning birdsong fill your ears and step onto the frozen lake, as early rising ice fishermen set up their gear for the day. After soaking in the tranquil views, warm yourself up with a hot tea or coffee on the lake and then be back at your hotel in time for breakfast.
Head out for a hike in Akan Mashu National Park
To truly appreciate Akan’s remarkable winter environment, you need to do some walking, and snowshoe tours with local guides such as Tsuruga Adventure Base SIRI will take you to places few visitors see. They also offer tours in English. Breathe in the crisp winter air and snowshoe over fluffy powder snow deep into the heart of the woods, where deer and other creatures can be spotted among the trees. After a quick refreshment break, emerge onto the vast white expanse of Lake Akan. Take in the contrast of the wide and flat lake with the majesty of the surrounding mountains, as you forge a path over the frozen ice back towards the town.
Akan travel essentials
Akan has a good choice of accommodation options, but the lakeside Akan Yuku-no-Sato Tsuruga is hard to beat. Situated right on the shore of Lake Akan, the spacious rooms look out over the lake towards Mount Oakan, and guests have a choice of extensive indoor and outdoor hot spring baths.
Akanoko Onsen (also known as Akanko or Akankohan) is the main town in the region and is serviced by buses from the cities of Kushiro (2 hours) and Kitami (90 minutes). The small town itself is very walkable, but if you want to explore the wider region then a rental car or private taxi is preferable.
Feeling inspired?
For more information and inspiration about Akan, head over to the official website.
