弟子屈町
A travel guide to
Teshikaga
“The entire Teshikaga region seems like something from a dream.”
A biting wind freezes the exposed skin on my face as I walk along the dark and deserted snow-encrusted street. The muted glow of the odd street light or shop window display guides me back to my hotel, where a blast of warmth greets me at the door, and a hot spring bath promises to warm and soothe my tired limbs. I am staying in Kawayu Onsen, a sleepy hot spring town which sits close to the foot of Mt. Io, a steam-belching volcano. Nearby are two of Japan’s most beautiful bodies of water; the enormous Lake Kussharo, which is almost completely frozen over except for a few geothermally-heated spots around its edges where whooper swans gather and brace against the cold; and Lake Mashu, an incredible crater lake with such a perfectly formed steep-sided rim that it looks otherworldly. But then the entire Teshikaga region seems like something from a dream.
Words by Tom Fay, photography by Pete Leong
Canoe the Kushiro River
An early morning wind whips up across Lake Kussharo, forming waves on the water’s surface and making it look more like an angry and tempestuous sea. But a short distance away, all is serene along the Kushiro River, which has its source at the lake and runs for some 150 kilometres as it gently meanders its way through Japan’s largest wetland. Guided canoe tours follow a course down the river, and provide a peaceful way to see the various sights and riverside-life from a unique vantage point, making the tours a popular choice for photographers and nature lovers.
Snowshoe the Mashu Kussharo Trail
The Mashu-Kussharo Trail (MKT) in the northeast part of Akan-Mashu National Park passes crater lakes, traditional Ainu sites and natural hot springs. The final 11km of the trail is expected to open in autumn which will bring the total length to 62km. In the winter months, it is possible to hike short sections, and a guided snowshoe tour will fully immerse you in the surroundings. Join a local guide from Mashu Kussharo Adventure (which offers tours in English) to traipse through winter wonderland forests and learn about the area’s fascinating natural history.
Don’t forget to pop into the Kawayu Visitor Centre to see their interesting and in-depth displays, and where the staff are happy to advise about the latest trail conditions.
Experience the power of nature at Mt. Io
Even from afar, the tell-tale signals of steamy plumes bellowing out of the side of the mountain and the unmistakable egg-like waft of volcanic gasses in the air indicate that Mt. Io is far from your typical peak. Known as ‘Iozan’ in Japanese, which translates as ‘sulphur mountain’, this visibly active volcano was mined for its sulphur by the early Japanese colonisers in Hokkaido. Today, it attracts visitors who come to see its charred slopes and steaming fumaroles. A short hiking trail from the visitor centre leads you up close to where the best of the action is.
“The sense of being close to nature is something unique to this region, as the entire landscape was formed by volcanic activity, including the rich fertile soils which mean the food and farm produce is some of Japan’s best. The local people will welcome visitors with open arms.”
– Yukiko Kobayashi, Hokkaido outdoor guide
Teshikaga travel essentials
The majority of visitors to Teshikaga stay a little north of town in the small hot spring resort of Kawayu Onsen. This quaint village in the shadow of Mt. Io has a range of hotels to suit every budget. Those looking for somewhere with good food and traditional vibes should consider Suikazura, an old-style luxury hotel with excellent hot spring baths. Teshikaga itself is a larger town with a few accommodation and restaurant options too.
Teshikaga’s Mashu Station can be reached by train on the JR Senmo Line which runs between Kushiro (1 hour 15 minutes) and Abashiri (1 hour 50 minutes). Or catch a bus from JR Kawayu Onsen Station into town; buses link various tourist spots, but some routes are only seasonal.
Feeling inspired?
For more information and inspiration about Teshikaga, head over to the official website.
