The Scottish shire leading the way in sustainable tourism 

It’s well documented that the Scottish Highlands and the western isles attract visitors with a penchant for nature. Edinburgh and Glasgow, meanwhile, have long been doing the heavy lifting when it comes to satisfying those seeking community and culture. Yet, there is much more to Scotland than the tried and tested routes – and, now, travellers are realising the laid-back northeast, where a strong sense of community is underpinning a growing tourism industry.

Located on the east coast, Aberdeen is an industrial city which has historically thrived on agriculture, forestry and fishing. More recently, oil and gas have taken over the region’s economy, with multiple generations of residents working within the industry. However, as plans for the UK to become a Net Zero nation by 2050 develop, and renewable energy infrastructure grows, an increasing number of people are future-proofing themselves by turning to other sectors, including tourism.

In the surrounding county of Aberdeenshire, locally-owned businesses lead the revolution of sustainable travel experiences. From brunch spots to rural accommodation, wildlife watching to cultural immersion – what makes Aberdeenshire stand out is that these experiences are owned and run by local people. This is a county claiming tourism income for its own, and it’s doing so successfully.

A return to nature

In the small community of Torry, marine expert Dr Fiona McIntyre is aligning residents with the often unseen nature that surrounds the old WWII fort at Torry Point Battery. It was with this goal that she opened Greyhope Bay – an old sea container-turned-look out-turned-café – that gives people a place to see bottlenose dolphins in the wild, in particular a resident pod that congregates along the coast, south of the city centre.

“This is a unique place, and dolphins are particularly charismatic mammals,” explains Fiona. My idea for this lookout was driven by the fact that there have always been resident dolphins in these waters and I wanted to build engagement with the environment and heritage of this site. Many people pay a lot of money to travel around the world to spot dolphins in the wild. Greyhope Bay is about valuing what we have here, in our own environment.”

Until the lookout café opened, few Aberdeenshire residents were aware that dolphins roamed these waters. “I wanted to create a facility or destination, somewhere to go, to have this experience,” Fiona continues. “Here, you can sit and wait for dolphins. People can come and see them from the land, it’s nice to be sheltered because of the weather, and they don’t need binoculars. Why wouldn’t we celebrate that? It’s amazing to be able to show residents that our own coastline supports this kind of ecosystem.”

Fiona’s project is quite extraordinary. By introducing Aberdeen’s residents to the nature of their doorstep, she is slowly turning a low-income neighbourhood, that has long suffered from under-funding, into a community that finds joy in its own nature. It’s a bonus that Greyhope Bay also draws in visitors from afar, who are eager to spot the marine life for themselves, and bring an important source of income to Torry. In addition, Fiona and her team host researchers, school groups and community members wanting to learn more about the marine ecosystem.

It’s even more impressive that the lookout café operates entirely off-grid. She says: “We use solar power and battery systems to generate power, and we collect rainwater and treat it on site – and that’s how we make the coffee. We try to lead by example. We are all about education, engagement and awareness.”

Deep into Aberdeenshire county, the Caledonian pine forests sprawl across the Cairngorms mountains, enveloping up to nearly 300km² of land. Among these hills, family-run farms and tiny villages speckle the landscape. Nearby, the hills of Balmoral and its royal castle – which served as a beloved home-away-from-home to the late Queen Elizabeth and continues to be a secure retreat for the Royal Family – sprawl for miles.

Just next door to Balmoral is Glen Tanar, an estate dedicated to land regeneration. Here, among the Scots pines, flowing rivers and grasslands, you will find red deer, pine martins, mountain hares and badgers, as well as a huge number of bird species from waders and lapwings to osprey and golden eagles. Occasionally, wild cats have even been seen roaming the grounds.

With such an abundance of wildlife, and with some of the oldest tree growth dating back over 400 years, a part of the estate is a designated nature reserve. Owned and run by fourth generation residents, Michael and Claire Bruce – it is considered an influential regeneration area.

“It’s a bonnie place,” says Wildlife Manager, Adam Smith, who has been working on the estate for over two and a half years. “We manage the forestry and deer; we go in search of Golden eagles and grouse muir, and there is salmon and sea trout fishing available on the river.”

While anyone can explore the Glen Tanar landscape on foot, bike or even horseback (thanks to Scotland’s Land Reform Act) nature-lovers can expand their experience by staying onsite at one of the estate’s seven luxury open-plan cottages, or by booking a photography or nature tour with the expert guides. For those eager to see wildlife, the Glen Tanar wildlife lookout – open to guests from Monday to Friday from 8-10pm – is a great spot to catch pine martins and badgers feeding.

Community at heart

Hand-in-hand with nature regeneration comes a need for sustainably sourced food – and the Aberdeenshire community are experts in the field. In fact, the abundance of locally owned and run businesses means any trip to the region is of huge benefit to those who live here.

On the outskirts of Aberdeen, in picturesque Inverurie, family-run Barra Berries Farm Shop & Kitchen serves a seasonal breakfast and lunch menu, with much of the produce coming directly from the family farm. Nearby Forest Farm – The Organic Dairy, in Kinellar, is locally cherished for its organic ice cream, made from non-homogenised milk. You can even watch the cows being milked through the farm window from 3:30pm.

Among the Scots pine forest, the wholesome Cambus O’May Cheese café serves delicious sandwiches and toasties oozing with unpasteurised homemade cheeses made in their creamery – including the traditional cambus o’may, ardmore, auld reekie and lochnagar – as well as other locally-produced ingredients such as haggis, chilli chutney and venison salami. In tiny Ballater, a small village in the Cairngorms, Artfarm’s Fish Shop menu is packed with ingredients from local farms and hand or reel-caught seafood sourced within the Scottish and British Isles. Even the smoked haddock rarebit is made with zero-emission charcoal, and much of the furniture in the restaurant is made from recycled or sustainably-sourced materials.

Experiences with locals

Then, there are the community uplifters such as River Dee Damsels, a female-owned and run fishing experience for women. Founder Tara Spiers, who launched the company in 2018, operates the friendly drop-in club around the town of Deeside. She explains: “There are so many opportunities to fish on the River Dee with an abundance of guides, ghillies and fly fishing schools…. What makes the River Dee Damsels extra special is that it provides an instant network for women who want to learn to fish with fun and camaraderie.”

According to Tara, learning to fish in this relaxed way, also helps more people to understand and appreciate the nature and vital freshwater ecosystem that services the region. “Women are bringing a totally different perspective to the river,” she adds. “As they become passionate about the river and learn more about its importance, they are adding a new dimension.”

While everyone is welcome to join a River Dee Damsels excursion – you’re likely to find them at the bank, usually with waders, rods and a few bottles of Prosecco in tow – help is at hand for those who wish to learn more about the art of fly fishing. Nicol Paton, owner of the Scottish Fly Fishing Company, provides a beginner’s guide (and the right waterproof gear) for wading in this flourishing river system –while in the Cairngorms, Laithers, owned by father-and-daughter team Sarah and Stephen Cruickshank, offers salmon and trout fishing experiences to those who already know how to cast a rod, but are in search of the tranquillity on the River Devron.

Sustainable stays

Hidden away among the Scots pines and birches, in the depths of the Cairngorm mountains, Cairngorm Bothies invites travellers to stay off-grid in cosy, self-catered huts. Designed and built by owner, Dr. Gordon Drummond, the pentagon-shaped properties are lifted up off the forest floor on galvanised screws, so as not to disturb tree roots. Each one is well insulated and comes with a king bedroom, bathroom with shower and kitchen area.

“We have two banks of solar panels that serves all 18 of our bothies,” explains Gordon, who previously worked as a subsea engineer. “The hot water and stove work via the wood burner. It’s a process where the wood heats the stove, which in turn allows heat to rise into a water storage tank to hear the taps and shower. Every bothy is built around this system.”

Today, the forest huts attract visitors from all over the world, who “enjoy getting involved with our eco-conscious lifestyle, and human-powered activities such as hiking and cycling”, but the road to success hasn’t been easy. Gordon has overcome everything from Covid restrictions to three major storms since launching in July 2020 – the worst being Storm Arwen in November 2021, which brought down so much of the surrounding forest that at times, he wondered, if the surrounding nature would ever spring back to life.

“The absolute devastation of losing so many trees was huge but, thankfully, natural generation has taken its course,” he explains. “The storms disturbed the soil, which allowed the sunlight in – and pine seeds that have dropped in this area for hundreds of years are now germinating. It’s not the story I wanted for Cairngorm Bothies, but I’ve accepted it’s just a different story. This natural regeneration is very special.”

A luxury stay at 19^th Century Georgian mansion, Manar House, is remarkably different to bothy life, but demonstrates just how heritage and splendour can come together and still underpin ethical choice. Set on a 65-acre estate, among the farming communities of Bernhervie, the Category B listed property was bought by husband-and-wife team Tina and Dean Horspool in early 2020. The pair, who live on the estate with their two young daughters, have since renovated the building with great care.

The three suites, Sutherland, Gordan and Don View, are steeped in ethical design – and feature everything from upcycled and recycled furniture and ethically-made bedding, to artwork created by local talents and a snack bar filled with village produce. However, it’s Tina’s background in sustainability and climate action, and Dean’s career in engineering, that have clearly contributed to the detail that makes Manar House an ethical traveller choice –  with its efficient energy management system and community open days, where locals are invited to enjoy the relaxed nature of the property and its gardens.

Now a certified yogi, Tina’s yoga and meditation classes, and pizza nights on the terrace, are undoubtedly a highlight of any stay here, but there’s also something truly inspiring about a humble family-run business offering a premium experience, that endeavours to make responsible choices in its operation. It’s a trend that seems to trickle throughout the county – making Aberdeenshire a strong example of how sustainable travel could look the world over.