Alberta
TRIP PLANNER
Beyond the peaks and glaciers of the Rockies, discover rich Indigenous culture, dinosaur fossils, vast prairies, forests and deserts on your ideal journey through this multifaceted Canadian province.
Sacred South
Explore historic Indigenous monuments and scenic valleys in Alberta’s southern reaches
Best for: UNESCO World Heritage sites, Indigenous culture, history and nature
Why go: Experience a side of Alberta that many travellers miss, from the spectacular hoodoos in the Milk River Valley to the quieter, less-tramped trails of Castle Provincial Park, immersing yourself in Blackfoot culture
and tradition
Route: Diamond Valley; Crowsnest Pass; Waterton Lakes National Park; Áísínai’pi/Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park; Head-Smashed-In-Buffalo Jump; Okotoks; Calgary
For insights into the long history of Alberta’s First Nations peoples, trace a loop south from Calgary through dramatic landscapes that have been used, shaped and adorned by Blackfoot and other Indigenous communities over many millennia. And though road-tripping is the way to reach off-the-beaten-track destinations, be ready to lace up walking shoes or grab paddles to immerse yourself in the wilder reaches.
Hire a car at Calgary International Airport and head south down Highway 22 – officially named Cowboy Trail – dawdling through Diamond Valley, a swathe of verdant farmland, microscopic towns and rolling foothills with the Kananaskis mountain range above the distant horizon. That road ends at the junction with Crowsnest Highway, leading west to its namesake pass, home to a collection of tiny hamlets. The road to Crowsnest Pass cuts through rubble ridges – the eerie remains of the Frank Slide, where Canada’s deadliest landslide buried dozens of people in 1903.
En route, enjoy an experiential lesson in Albertan mining history at the Bellevue Underground Mine. Spend the night in a rustic cabin and learn about the pass’s murky and murderous Prohibition past. Return east along Highway 3 to embrace the wild by camping in Castle Provincial Park, paddling and fishing on Beaver Mines Lake, hiking up Table Mountain or cooling down with a dip in Castle Falls. Then veer south on Highway 6 to reach Waterton Lakes National Park which, together with neighbouring Glacier National Park across the US border in Montana, is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
Spend a few nights at the Prince of Wales Hotel on the hill and explore uncrowded hiking trails that lead to cerulean lakes, ochre-glazed canyons and rocky ridgelines. Don’t miss nearby Waterton Park, where the restaurants and boutiques buzz in summer, and get out onto Waterton Lake on a canoe, kayak, stand-up paddleboard, or on a sightseeing trip with Waterton Shoreline Cruise Co.
Drive east through rural Alberta on Highways 5 and 501 to reach Milk River, a put-in point for a multi-day canoe voyage along the chalky Milk River to Áísínai’pi, the World Heritage site also known as Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park, where beautifully preserved engravings and paintings made on the sandstone cliffs around 4,000 years ago offer glimpses into the sacred history of the Siksikáíítsitapi (Blackfoot Nation, also known
as Niitsítapi).
Return north-west on Highways 4 then 3 to Head-Smashed-In-Buffalo Jump. The Interpretive Centre at this World Heritage site reveals how, for some 6,000 years, the Blackfoot combined their knowledge of the environment and bison behaviour to stampede herds off the cliff, using the resulting carcasses to provide food, shelter and clothing. Sleep in traditional Native American fashion at the nearby Buffalo Rock Tipi Camp on the nearby Piikani Nation Reserve before heading back to Calgary.
Gain an Indigenous perspective at Paahtómahksikimi Cultural Centre
Connect to the spirit of Waterton Lakes National Park at the centre named for the Blackfoot word meaning ‘inner sacred lake’, in a place with spiritual significance for that nation. Delve into Blackfoot culture through a range of activities: play traditional games, engage in a plant workshop, join a drumming circle or learn one of the many different styles of Indigenous dance. The centre’s craft shop also supports local artisans by selling pieces made by Blackfoot artists and entrepreneurs. Before heading out on the many trails in the national park, sign up for a bear safety information session to prepare for a possible encounter. Hiking in groups of four and packing bear spray – making sure you also know how to use it – is encouraged. paahtomahksikimi.ca
(Shutterstock)
Hike less-beaten paths around Crowsnest Pass
Experience this quieter area on a journey with Crowsnest Adventures, which offers customised hiking tours led by local guides. Options include a moderate hike to the ghost town of Lille and, for more intrepid trekkers, a six-hour adventure to the wreck site of an RCAF DC-3 Dakota plane that crashed in 1946. You can also enjoy more traditional wilderness hikes to waterfalls and backcountry lakes, and explore First Nations history on excursions led by Indigenous guides. In partnership with Centre Peak High Country Adventures, the company also offers horseback excursions taking riders to otherwise inaccessible areas, supports the local community through the Crowsnest Pass Bear Smart Team providing bear safety courses, and helps local teams with animal location and search assistance. crowsnestadventures.ca
(Alamy)
Read the writing on the walls at Áísínai’pi – Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park
Many of the most important petroglyphs of this sacred place, as well as sensitive habitats and breeding sites of birds of prey, are protected within the Archaeological Preserve, accessible only on a guided tour – book in advance with Alberta Parks. The 90-minute walks delve into what the carved and painted images of the Blackfoot people tell us about the traditional way of life, including relationships between First Nations and the ksaah-kom-mi-ta-piiks (beings of the land). The more testing three-hour Haffner Coulee Guided Hike takes visitors on a rugged, off-trail exploration of a protected valley, with glimpses of ancient petroglyphs peppered throughout crumbling ravines. The two-hour Markings of Áísínai’pi walk weaves together settler and Indigenous history, interpreting some of the rock art, in a modern reconciliation effort. Please help preserve this sacred space – don’t tamper with the rock art or sandstone landforms. albertaparks.ca
(Shutterstock)
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“The majestic Waterton Lakes National Park is a highlight of southern Alberta. The majority of Albertans are either unaware of it or have never ventured down this way, but are awestruck when they do. The ancient and raw mountains are unique and inspiring, while paddling the unforgettable waterways or e-biking the old roads of this gorgeous park also add to an authentically intimate experience.”
Michael Olsen, owner and operator of Blakiston & Company adventure lifestyle company, Waterton
Into the Badlands
Dive into deep time and hunt for dinosaur bones on a trip into fossil-festooned prehistory
Best for: Otherworldly landscapes, palaeontology, outdoor adventure, family-friendly activities
Why go: If you’re fascinated by the distant past, you’ll be entranced by dinosaur discoveries, while dark skies and adventure activities offer something for everyone
Route: Drumheller; Dinosaur Provincial Park; Kinbrook Island Provincial Park; Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park; Blackfoot Crossing Historical Park; Calgary
If you could travel back in time 75 million years to explore what’s now south-east Alberta, you’d find a subtropical wonderland through which giant ‘thunder lizards’ roamed – and the remains of many of these dinosaurs are still being unearthed in the beautifully barren terrain known as the Badlands. Get behind the wheel to explore these dramatic landscapes once home to diverse prehistoric reptile species.
Start at Calgary and head north-east on Highways 564 and 9 to Drumheller, 120km from the airport. When the landscape transitions from flat prairie farmland to dry gulches brimming with buttery hoodoos and scrub brush, you know you’re approaching the ‘Dinosaur Capital of the World’.
Paleontology buffs will want to take in the Royal Tyrrell Museum, west of town, for its impressive collections – though you shouldn’t miss Tyra, the world’s largest dinosaur statue, looming 25m over the charming cafés, cosy inns and campgrounds of Drumheller. The town is also a great base for hiking among the distinctive eroded rocks of Horseshoe Canyon, delving into the Atlas Coal Mine National Historic Site, or e-biking along the banks of the Red Deer River. Cool off afterwards with a locally brewed beer at Valley Brewing, or get a taste of cowboy life at the Last Chance Saloon, in a 1913 hotel building in Wayne.
Zip 170km south-east for Dinosaur Provincial Park, where you can hunt for fossils and dinosaur bones on hiking trails, learn about the varied plant and animal species at the visitor centre, and explore the cabin built by John Ware, a former enslaved person and celebrated cowboy. This is a remote area, so food and sleeping options are limited to a small cafe and basic camping facilities; Kinbrook Island Provincial Park – with birdwatching, swimming and paddling opportunities plus a campsite – is just under an hour’s drive south.
Continue south-east, mostly on Highway 1, to reach the lush wetlands of Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park which straddles the border with Saskatchewan and is a dark sky preserve. Summer is best for hiking and boating, but in winter you can snowshoe under the Northern Lights, ice skate around the 1.5km Old Baldy Campground Loop, or rent a fatbike for an alternative to skiing. The town of Elkwater has hotels, restaurants, shops and camping options. Backcountry huts are also available.
En route back to Calgary via Highway 1, visit Blackfoot Crossing Historical Park on the Siksika 146 First Nations Reserve. The museum, on the site where Treaty No 7 was signed in 1877 by the region’s Indigenous peoples and the Canadian government, creating a reserve in exchange for ceding rights to those First Nations peoples’ traditional territory, gives an in-depth look at the life of Siksika chief and diplomat Isapo-muxika (Crowfoot).
Finally, spend a few days exploring Calgary. Immerse in Canadian music history with a Backstage Pass Tour at Studio Bell, or take a guided tour of the striking street art.
The rugged terrain of Dinosaur Provincial Park is a research site rich with dinosaur bones and fossils (Shuttershock)
Play with palaeontology at the Royal Tyrrell Museum
Canada’s only museum dedicated solely to the study of prehistoric life boasts one of the largest displays of dinosaurs in the world, with a variety of creative, fun and educational programmes. Adults can strike out through the Badlands on a guided 90-minute hike to explore the landscape where fossils are still discovered, while children can experience the thrill of excavation on a simulated dig. All ages are invited to the Dinosite to search for and touch real fossils, and you can also help assemble a replica of a small dinosaur skeleton or learn about the process and importance of making casts of fossils. The museum is named after Joseph Burr Tyrrell who, in 1884, unearthed the 70-million-year-old skull of a carnivorous Albertosaurus near the site of what’s now Drumheller. tyrrellmuseum.com
(Alamy)
Hike less-beaten paths around Crowsnest Pass
To get the most out of a visit, join one of the many guided tours into the restricted zone, which is still an active palaeontological research and study site. On the short but thrilling Bare Bones Bus Tour, you can see a fully articulated duck-billed dinosaur skeleton still located where it was first discovered. The Fossil Finders Hike is an opportunity to hunt for ancient remains in the rugged terrain of the badlands – including the chance to handle an authentic fossil, while the Golden Hour Wander among the hoodoos is perfect for photographers. On the four-hour Great Badlands hike, your guide will not only show you fossil-bearing bluffs tucked into eroding valleys and remnants of an ancient sea, but will also help you spot or hear deer, coyotes and some of the 160 bird species found here. Alternatively, explore the soft rocky terrain on the network of public trails. albertaparks.ca
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Inspire your inner artist at Moonstone Creation
Gain insights into traditional First Nations culture and crafts during a workshop with Yvonne Jobin, a talented Cree artisan and founder of Moonstone Creation. During one of her various sessions you could practise beadwork, sew moccasins, make drums and dream catchers, or master the art of porcupine quillwork. The Medicine Wheel Teaching workshop explores the ancient teachings and ceremony protocols of Yvonne’s First Nations people. All classes take place at Moonstone Creation in Inglewood, Calgary’s oldest neighbourhood and now a popular shopping and arts district. moonstonecreation.ca
(Alamy)
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Wander the wild
Best for: Dark skies, wildlife, unspoiled nature, Indigenous experiences, the arts
Why go: Aurora chasers relish a range of dark-sky experiences here while striking out with Indigenous guides, the original storytellers of Canada, through this wild area of Alberta
Route: Edmonton; Sir Winston Churchill Provincial Park; Wood Buffalo National Park; Métis Crossing; Elk Island National Park
Start your journey in Edmonton, the capital of Alberta, spanning one of the country’s most beautiful urban river valleys. Immerse yourself in the vibrant arts scene on Whyte Avenue, with its intimate live-music venues, belly-laugh inducing improv shows and cultural art walks. The Royal Alberta Museum – the largest in western Canada – is also a worthwhile stop, providing an in-depth look at the province’s fascinating, fraught colonial history, with permanent Indigenous and pioneer exhibits as well as rotating displays from around the world. The museum is also temporarily safeguarding the spiritually significant Manitou Asinîy (Creator’s Stone) before it is returned to the Indigenous peoples to which it belongs.
Next, drive to Sir Winston Churchill Provincial Park, an archipelago in the eastern reaches of Lac la Biche, around 220km north-east of Edmonton. Take a few days to explore by boat, foot and bike, discovering sandy beaches hidden in the folds of the old-growth forest that borders Big Island. A haven for birds – watch for ospreys, bald eagles, warblers and crossbills – this is the only island park in Alberta that allows camping, and has all-season cabins and traditional tipis to rent just steps from the lake on Long Island.
Intrepid adventurers make the ten-hour drive north to Wood Buffalo National Park – the world’s second largest, encompassing an area bigger than Switzerland and, unsurprisingly, a thrilling wilderness with equally thrilling wildlife inhabiting it. For a few months each winter it’s possible to drive to the park via Fort Chipewyan on an ice road; at other times, swing through the neighbouring Northwest Territories to Fort Smith, a stone’s throw from the border with Alberta, and access the park from there. (Fort Smith and Fort Chipewyan are both served by flights from Edmonton, too.)
Turning south, head for Métis Crossing, Alberta’s first major cultural interpretive destination for this Indigenous nation of mixed European and First Nations ancestry. Discover their Michif language and traditional way of life on this 207-hectare site: learn to set a beaver trap, sample dried bison and dance a Red River Jig to lively fiddle music, or take the Métis Crossing Wildlife Tour to glimpse rare white bison or Percheron horses. The wildlife park here is a potent exemplar of reconciliation, developed as a joint venture partnership between Métis Crossing and non-Indigenous rancher Len Hrehorets, who worked together to return heritage species of bison, elk and horse to traditional Métis lands. Stay at the 40-room boutique lodge overlooking the Saskatchewan River.
From here it’s a 55km drive south-west to Elk Island National Park, a quieter, wildlife-focused alternative to the busier parks of Banff and Jasper. Visit at dawn or dusk to spot bison, elk or some of the 250 bird species; come in spring to watch red bison calves frolicking through the grasslands or in fall or winter to admire the Northern Lights, try Nordic skiing, snowshoeing or ice skating.
Eik Island National Park is an ideal place for spotting elk, bison and bird life (Shuttershock)
Inspire your inner artist at Moonstone Creation
Gain insights into traditional First Nations culture and crafts during a workshop with Yvonne Jobin, a talented Cree artisan and founder of Moonstone Creation. During one of her various sessions you could practise beadwork, sew moccasins, make drums and dream catchers, or master the art of porcupine quillwork. The Medicine Wheel Teaching workshop explores the ancient teachings and ceremony protocols of Yvonne’s First Nations people. All classes take place at Moonstone Creation in Inglewood, Calgary’s oldest neighbourhood and now a popular shopping and arts district. moonstonecreation.ca
(Alamy)
Connect with nature in Wood Buffalo National Park
Canada’s largest park, a wild expanse of nearly 45,000 sq km straddling the border between Alberta and the Northwest Territories, can be tricky and time-consuming to reach – but that effort is amply rewarded with a quieter experience in unspoiled nature. As well as protecting a large chunk of the Northern Boreal Plains ecozone, hosting the largest herds of wood bison in the world and encompassing a crucial whooping crane habitat, it’s also the world’s largest Dark Sky Preserve. For the best chance of enjoying the magical light-show of the Aurora Borealis, head for Pine Lake, Salt River Day Use Area or the Salt Plains Lookout. In this traditional territory of the Dene, Cree and Métis peoples, you can enjoy a range of guided experiences as well as ample paddling, camping and hiking opportunities – don’t miss the 4km loop among the erosion-sculpted boulders littering the white salt pan at Grosbeak Lake. parks.canada.ca
(Shutterstock)
Stargaze from inside a Sky Watching Dome
Explore the night sky through a transparent ceiling from the comfort of a king-size bed in one of Métis Crossing’s luxurious Sky Watching Domes, making the most of near-zero light pollution in this remote spot. Gain an age-old perspective of the night sky and learn how the Métis people used the stars for navigation and used the sky as a clock in this historic place. A single dome is suitable for two adults, while larger groups can book a family suite sleeping six. Each dome has running water, a bathroom, kitchenette, heated floors, air-conditioning and electricity. metiscrossing.com
(Alamy)
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Summits of the Southern Rockies
Best for: Mountains, skiing, charming towns, dining and historic hotels
Why go: To drink in awe-inspiring views and experience a range of accessible and adventurous activities
Route: Calgary; Kananaskis Country; Canmore; Banff; Lake Louise
The drive from Calgary to Banff National Park, Alberta’s most-visited destination, lays out an all-you-can-view buffet of rugged peaks, waterfalls and wildlife. And it pays to take your time on the journey – to delve into the less-explored side of this most popular region, beyond the ubiquitous drive-up lakes, gondolas and manufactured tourist destinations. Begin in Calgary, a city well worth exploring at a slow pace. Rent a bike and tour burgeoning craft brewery districts such as Manchester and Beltine, or check out any number of unique culinary and sleeping options.
Hire a car or catch a bus for the journey to Banff, some 125km to the west. En route, stop to explore Kananaskis Country, a mountain playground with countless hiking and cycling trails and lakeside campgrounds – watch out for moose. The winsome little town of Canmore makes a great base for exploring K-Country – grab picnic supplies and stroll down the river to the Canmore Engine Bridge, a picturesque truss structure built in 1891 that featured in TV series The Last of Us. Drink in views of the famous triple peak known as the Three Sisters just south of Canmore before continuing on Highway 1.
Arriving in Banff, 25km to the north-west, book into the Fairmont Banff Springs, a landmark hotel dating back to 1888. A dizzying array of adventure activities beckons here, varying by season. In winter, hire a fatbike to pedal the groomed multi-use front-country trails, while in summer you could rent a kayak to paddle beneath looming Mount Rundle on Vermilion Lakes. Thrill-seekers tackle the via ferrata at Mount Norquay – a popular skiing destination in snow season – or dive into a rafting adventure on the icy turquoise waters of the Bow River.
To roam at a more relaxed pace, book a Banff Medicine Walk with Mahikan Trails to explore the scenic Cascade Ponds from an Indigenous perspective, then admire the bold and brilliant art at the Carter-Ryan Gallery, or visit the Buffalo Nations Museum dedicated to the cultures, traditions and values of First Nations peoples.
Most travellers take the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) between Banff and Lake Louise. Instead detour for a leisurely meander along the parallel Bow Valley Parkway (Route 1A). Park at Castle Junction for the moderate hike up to Rockbound Lake, framed by gleaming rock faces and especially spectacular when the larches have donned their golden autumn finery. Where the parkway rejoins the main highway at Lake Louise town, rent an e-bike or, in winter, grab a pair of Nordic skis – the best ways to reach iconic Moraine Lake at sunrise before the shuttle buses start running (summer only) and the crowds amass. In summer, hike from the shore of Lake Louise to the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse for jaw-dropping vistas of the ice-clad summits of Mounts Lefroy and Victoria.
From Banff, you could retrace your steps to Calgary, continue north along the spectacular Icefield Parkway to Jasper National Park, or peel off at Saskatchewan River Crossing and go north-east along Highway 11 to explore the quieter but beautiful David Thompson Country.
Drink in the views of the Rockies with hikes on the countless trails in Kananaskis Country (Shutterstock)
Take a deep dive into Indigenous and mountain history
Explore the night sky through a transparent ceiling from the comfort of a king-size bed in one of Métis Crossing’s luxurious Sky Watching Domes, making the most of near-zero light pollution in this remote spot. Gain an age-old perspective of the night sky and learn how the Métis people used the stars for navigation and used the sky as a clock in this historic place. A single dome is suitable for two adults, while larger groups can book a family suite sleeping six. Each dome has running water, a bathroom, kitchenette, heated floors, air-conditioning and electricity. metiscrossing.com
(Alamy)
Hop on an e-bike to reach a hidden backcountry lodge
To venture into the white winter wilderness, rent a fat-tire e-bike and pedal through the snow to a timber cabin – just 16km along a track leading south-west from Banff, but a world away from that busy tourist town. Sundance Lodge, most accessible of this area’s cabins, is set along one of the only backcountry trails in the park on which guests are permitted to fatbike during the winter months, following a relatively easy route that can also be traversed on snowshoes or cross-country skis in winter, or on horseback in summer. Tackle the journey on a self-guided adventure or join a guided trip with Bikescape, a female-owned and operated company, stopping to enjoy a gourmet lunch at the lodge. horseback.com
(Alamy)
Sample cowboy culture on a horsepacking trip at Boundary Ranch
Experience the really wild west amid the dramatic backdrop of Kananaskis Country. At Boundary Ranch, your inner cowboy will be raring to saddle up and hit the trail on one of a plethora of horseback activities, ranging from shorter guided rides on scenic, tranquil routes to multi-day pack trips camping in the backcountry, drinking in spectacular mountain views, cooling off in pristine lakes and being soothed to sleep at night by the sound of tumbling streams. You can combine a two-hour ridge ride with an adrenaline-pumping white-water rafting trip on the Surf and Saddle Adventure, or try your hand at dog carting, a summer tour emulating dog sledding – just without the snow. boundaryranch.com
(Shutterstock)
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Loop the lakes
Best for: Cosy cabins, lakes, waterfalls, wildlife and paddling
Why go: Jasper National Park offers a quieter but no less scenic alternative to Banff, with pristine lakes and rivers begging to be paddled amid the peaks. The drive south along the Icefields Parkway is an unmissable widescreen epic, too
Route: Jasper National Park; Icefields Parkway; Saskatchewan River Crossing; David
Thompson Country
Begin your adventure with the 360km, four-hour drive west from Edmonton along the Yellowhead Highway (16) to the quaint town of Jasper, hub for its namesake national park. Set out in the morning and enjoy a lunch stop at the Folding Mountain Brewery Taproom and Kitchen, just before you reach the national park. If you’re feeling energetic, make the 15km out-and-back hike up the brewery’s namesake peak. Then continue to Jasper, the ‘cabin capital of Canada’.
Of the many gorgeous alpine tarns and meres in the area, the glittering jewel in the national park’s crown is Maligne Lake. Following the meandering road from Jasper town, keep your speed down and your eyes peeled for moose, bears and elk – this is a busy wildlife corridor. Stretch your legs en route – in Maligne Canyon or at Medicine Lake, perhaps – before completing the snaking drive at the cerulean waters of the waterway known to the Indigenous Stoney Nakoda people as Chaba Imne (Beaver Lake). Rent a canoe or kayak to explore Maligne Lake, or take a boat cruise to Spirit Island. Alternatively, hike up to into the Bald or Opal Hills for a panorama of the lake.
There are countless trails in the park, but the testing Edith Cavell Meadows Trail is probably the most popular, taking in flower-strewn meadows, glaciers, turquoise Kettle Lake and views of the peak of Mount Edith Cavell itself. As you’d expect, the Valley of the Five Lakes hike visits a quintet in various shades of blue and green. Alternatively, catch the Jasper SkyTram up to Whistlers Peak. Whichever adventures you choose, refuel at one of the local coffee shops and bakeries in Jasper, or soak your weary bones at Miette Hot Springs, reached via a winding mountain road from a turnoff north-east of Jasper. One word of caution: elk rule the town – so keep your distance.
Head south on Highway 93 to embark on Canada’s premier road trip along the Icefields Parkway. This much-lauded route can’t be rushed – and not just because of its scenic beauty: road conditions can be challenging in winter, while in summer, dawdling traffic causes delays. Prepare to be awed as you absorb the views of towering peaks and glaciers, and make time to hop out of the car and enjoy the wonders up close – the spray of Athabasca Falls on your face, the hike up to Parker Ridge for views of the Saskatchewan Glacier, or a guided tour onto the Athabasca Glacier. Stay overnight at Glacier View Lodge.
As you continue south, spectacular lakes come thick and fast. At Peyto Lake, stroll up to the Bow Pass Summit. Bow Lake, a few minutes farther down the road, is also a beauty. If time is tight, take the short hike up to Bow Falls – or take the longer trek north up to Lake Helen, perhaps adding the easy scramble up to Cirque Peak, for a view of the Icefields Parkway itself. Return north to explore David Thompson Country, extending into the hills east of the Rockies. Wild camp on the shores of Abraham Lake, book a cabin in Nordegg or connect with both Western and Indigenous culture at Wildhorse Ranch.
Take a boat cruise to Spirit Island on Maligne, or rent a kayak or canoe to explore the lake’s cerulean waters (Alamy)
Experience the ancient Athabasca Glacier on foot
Leave the crowds behind and get onto the ancient ice on an Indigenous-led tour. Zuc’min Guiding founder Tim Patterson has partnered with Athabasca Glacier IceWalks to offer guests an experiential lesson on the Columbia Icefield region from a First Nations viewpoint. Historically, the pass served as a key trading route for Indigenous people, and the shrinking glacier is a sobering reminder of its significance as a water resource for the surrounding area. Savour the snap of ice beneath your crampons while exploring this icy wonderland, and gain a new perspective of the heavily glaciated peaks towering overhead. No mountaineering experience is required for the hike, which is roughly 5km long with 200m of elevation gain, and runs in July and August.
zucminguiding.com; icewalks.com
Hear the heartbeat of Mother Earth
Join Matricia Brown for an intimate fireside chat under the night sky and Jasper’s majestic mountains, sharing Indigenous stories of the land. Along with traditional drumming and singing, guests are also encouraged to learn songs and a few phrases from the Cree language. Brown, who runs her business with her daughter, ensures that every experience is one that is deeply entrenched in the traditions and knowledge of her Cree culture. Jasper is the second largest Dark Sky Preserve in the world and hosts an annual Dark Sky Festival each autumn, during which Brown narrates the stories of the stars. Warrior Women also hosts arts and craft workshops, and sells Indigenous products including leatherwork, beading and a one-of-a-kind line of Indigenous bitters. warriorwomen.ca
Take a transformative journey in an under-the-radar area of the Canadian Rockies
For a life-changing adventure, book a hiking or climbing experience with Girth Hitch Guiding. Owner Tim Taylor is a proud Métis man who offers a variety of cultural and heart-pumping adventures for people of all skill levels. Beginners can enjoy the land-based learning hike, run in partnership with Zuc’min Guiding, to gain skills and connect with the Earth, or book a Heli-Glacier Adventure to experience the thrill of high alpine exploration without the hard work. For a low-risk rock-climbing adventure, try The Fox Via Ferrata. Alternatively, test your skills on a multi-day heli-alpine camp under the care of an experienced and licensed guide in a remote location among the rugged peaks of David Thompson Country. girthhitchguiding.ca
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“Jasper is a passionate community where people love the outdoors and put the environment and mountain culture at the forefront of their existence. If I had to recommend one experience, it would be to explore Maligne Canyon. The duality of the power of the water during summer and the vast mass of ice it becomes in winter is fascinating. The immensity of that shift captures Canadian living – how wildly different it is depending on the season.”
Silvie Walsh, owner of Ransom Jasper boutique
About the trip
When to go
Summer, after the snow has (for the most part) melted, brings plenty of sunny and warm days ideal for hiking and camping – but also crowds. The more well-known attractions can feel overrun at this time. It’s also prime fire season.
The ideal time for a visit is late September into October, when the weather is usually still pleasant – though quite cold at night: you should still expect snow. The crowds won’t have dissipated entirely by then, but they’ll have dwindled.
Winter is a truly breathtaking experience, and a number of activities can be enjoyed only in the coldest months – fatbiking, snowshoeing or cross-country skiing some backcountry trails, for example – but road conditions and avalanches can create challenges for travel during this time, so be flexible with your plans.
Be warned: you should anticipate experiencing all four seasons in any one day in Alberta, whatever time of year you visit. Pack warm and wicking layers plus waterproofs
Getting there & around
The main hubs receiving international flights in Alberta are Calgary International Airport (YYC) and Edmonton International Airport (YEG). Either airport makes a convenient start or end point for your journey, and the two cities – only 260km apart along Highway 2 – are linked by regular Red Arrow buses in about three hours.
Public transport is well developed in the two cities and Banff (from where you can catch buses to Lake Louise and many other popular lakes and trailheads), but the rest of the province is harder to explore without your own wheels. Shuttle services to popular tourist attractions and towns are available from both airports, which also have car rental desks.
The luxurious Rocky Mountaineer tourist train chugs from Calgary to Vancouver via Jasper (or vice versa). Via Rail offers a more affordable alternative, with trains running from Edmonton to Jasper twice weekly on Wednesdays and Saturdays; the journey takes six-and-a-half-hours.
Carbon offset
A return flight from London to Calgary produces 663kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider.
Carbon offset
travelalberta.com – The official Travel Alberta website provides ample information and ideas for visitors to the province.
