Alberta
through the seasons
The traffic lights are green, but the taxi slows anyway. Indifferent to the Highway Code, a muscular bull elk stands in the road, his head held proud beneath his six-pronged antlers. He glares at us – an unspoken ‘stay back’ – then continues on his way, a pair of females trotting in his wake. “It’s rutting season,” explains Colin, my driver. “You see elk everywhere at this time of year. It’s one of the reasons I love the fall – there’s so much wildlife about. This morning, I even saw a mama bear and two cubs.” Animal encounters are one of many reasons to visit Alberta in autumn. As we continue our journey through Jasper National Park, the roadside aspens glint golden in the crisp sunshine and an early snowfall cloaks the Rocky Mountain peaks. The roads are quiet outside of the summer peak, and there’s no queue in sight when we arrive at the Jasper Skytram. In just over seven minutes, Canada’s longest aerial tramway ferries me up to 2,263m, from where I crunch up through the fresh snow to the peak of Whistlers Mountain. There’s only one other person here, and we stand in companionable silence, basking in the 360-degree mountain views and the unspoken pleasure of having this endless scenery to ourselves. I loved autumn in Alberta, but Canada’s fourth-largest province is unmissable at any time of year. Here’s what to expect in each season…
Spring
Spring is similarly uncrowded and offers pleasant temperatures, ideal for outdoor activities. In May and June, the Bow Valley Parkway between Banff and Lake Louise is closed to vehicles, creating a 17km cycling route packed with heart-racing downhills and epic mountain views.
Prefer to travel on two feet instead of two wheels? Alberta has hundreds of trails to explore, from self-guided hikes in the national parks to medicine walks led by Mahikan Trails’ Indigenous knowledge keepers, who bring the landscape to life with tales of how their ancestors survived in this challenging environment.
The spring bloom also brings out the wildlife. Look out for black bears foraging for berries, bighorn sheep scrambling up hillsides and moose wading through rivers. At the end of April, Edmonton hosts the Dreamspeakers International Indigenous Film Festival, where you can watch more than 40 works by Indigenous filmmakers from all around the world.
Summer
Alberta warms up in summer, and the long days and blue skies allow for endless open-air adventures. Hit the road on the Cowboy Trail, a scenic drive along Highway 22, where ranches, wildflower meadows and craggy peaks create a cinematic Western landscape.
Unearth much older history at Drumheller in the Canadian Badlands. The ‘Dinosaur Capital of the World’ boasts distinctive rock formations and prehistoric beasts. Peer into the 70-million-year-old fossil beds or visit the Royal Tyrrell Museum to see the remains of a T-rex or triceratops.
If you’re craving natural beauty, escape to the tranquil Waterton Lakes National Park. Here, where Alberta’s peaks meet Montana’s prairies, you’ll find sparkling lakes and wildflower meadows. It’s the perfect setting for hiking, kayaking or just disconnecting from modern life.
Summer is also when the cities come alive with celebrations. Don’t miss the Calgary Stampede, a ten-day rodeo extravaganza, or the Edmonton Fringe Festival, North America’s largest theatre festival with 216 productions across 38 venues.
Autumn
As summer fades, Alberta ignites with autumn colour. Hike the trails with your camera and capture landscapes gilded by the changing larch trees. It’s prime time for wildlife viewing too, with bears fattening up for winter, elk competing for mates and golden eagles beginning their migration.
With the nights drawing in but temperatures still mild, it’s also ideal conditions for stargazing. Jasper National Park is the world’s second-largest Dark Sky Preserve, and in October it hosts the Jasper Dark Sky Festival, which marks its 15th anniversary in 2025. Take a late-night stargazing trip to the top of the Jasper Skytram, or join an expert talk at the Jasper Planetarium to discover just what lies in the heavens.
All of these adventures are bound to give you an appetite. But don’t worry. Alberta’s chefs have got you covered. Join an Alberta Food Tour of Calgary Farmers’ Market to discover local specialties such as Alberta beef and Saskatoon berries, or download the operator’s app for a self-guided foodie road trip taken at your own pace.
Winter
Winter transforms Alberta into a playground for the adventurous. Canmore, Banff and Lake Louise offer a host of activities: carve fresh tracks on cross-country skis, glide through snowfields on a fat bike and skate across frozen lakes. You can ride up the Banff Gondola for dazzling white panoramas, or take a guided hike through winter wonder-landscapes.
The ice brings with it some unique visitor opportunities. At Abraham Lake, gas bubbles freeze into mesmerising patterns; waterfalls across the area transform into ice cascades; and the Banff Snowdays Festival showcases ice sculptures brought to life by world-class carvers.
At Métis Crossing, near Edmonton, you can join the Métis people to discover their winter traditions. Buy handmade gifts at the Holiday Market or learn how to sew your own moccasins to keep your feet toasty. Meanwhile, you can feel Calgary’s festive spirit at markets, light displays and even on the city’s streets. There’s never a bad time to visit Alberta.
