A guide to AlUla’s rock-carved stars

AlUla’s many civilizations are best understood through its majestic rock-hewn landscape. Whilst these collossal sandstone formations, scattered haphazardly, around the desert are wondrous to the eye, they also tell stories of the land. Rock formations in the ancient cities of Hegra, Dadan and Jabal Ikmah were used by five consecutive civilisations to record their daily lives.

Hegra is an archaeological site of significant importance in AlUla. It is Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage site and it’s an important place of Nabataean civilisation and the largest south of Petra in Jordan. Hegra’s landscape includes tombs, monuments and ornamental carvings. The tombs date back from 1BCE to the latest in 70CE In total, there are over 110 Nabataean tombs and artificial wells spread across the desert here. All of the evidence speaks of a civilisation rich in language (as many as 10 throughout AlUla), architectural influences from at least four different cultures and highly sophisticated knowledge and skills. For a people that left behind no written records in any books, Hegra’s rocks provide a little more understanding of this time in prehistory.

See the Tomb of Lihyan Son of Kuza from above in a hot air balloon (Experience AlUla)

Standing 22m tall, the Tomb of Lihyan, is Hegra’s largest tomb. It is also known as Qasr al-Farid which translates to the ‘Lonely Castle’. As the name implies, the Tomb of Lihyan sits further away from the rest of the tombs but offers some insight into the way Nabataeans carved the monumental structures; from top to bottom. Five steps at the top of either side of the tomb lead the dead to heaven. However, the tomb appears unfinished at the base with chisel marks in its lowest part. Whilst giving us an understanding of its construction, the tomb’s inscription is brief with only the ownership of the tomb inscribed above it. Yet, for visitors, the Tomb of Lihyan is an awe-inspiring marvel towering above all those who look up towards it. You’ll be amazed by the meticulous carving of its three levels, an entrance decorated with four columns and a triangular shape above it.

Jabal AlAhmar (Experience AlUla)

Among Hegra’s outcrops is Jabal Ahmar, a name which refers to the red hue of the rock. This site has 18 tombs, of which a few were recently excavated. One in particular features an inscription that reveals it belongs to a 2,000-year-old Nabataean woman called Hinat, who was the daughter of Wahbu. In a groundbreaking, world-first feat, her appearance has been reconstructed and this, along with her story, has been shared as part of an exhibition at Hegra’s visitor centre. In the same tomb, human remains have been uncovered, including a woman wearing a necklace made of date stones. The entrances of Jabal Ahmar’s tombs are decorated with columns indicating Greek and Roman architectural influences typical of most of Hegra’s tombs. Classic pediments crown the entrances, eagles and sphinxes are ever-present to protect them from trespassers.

Jabal Banat is also know as ‘Girls Mountain’. Here, there are 29 tombs carved on all sides of the rock, and they’re believed to have been resting places for women indicating their social standing and also ownership of the rock. It’s possible to walk right around the rock mountain for a closer look. Whilst the inscriptions above the tomb offer little else, they do warn of ordained punishments and fines, meant to protect the tomb, for those who may intrude, remove its contents or try to change the inscriptions and attempt to claim the tomb as their own.

The Diwan is a large room carved in to a rock. It sits surrounded by the shade of other rocks and is believed to have been a place where people socialised, celebrated and shared food. Two short stairways lead visitors to benches that run along three sides of the Diwan. It’s easy to imagine this vast chamber decorated with rich and vivid carpets and cushions for seating, humming with excited chatter of travellers exchanginge stories and enjoying a respite from the desert. Jabal Ithlib forms a narrow walkable passage outside where Nabateaen deities are carved onto the vertical rock face. Columns, eagles, camels and words offer a rare glimpse in to Nabateaen beliefs and may also suggest meeting places for pilgrims. Walk through the passage and there is evidence in the rocks that rain water may have travelled between the crevices to reach the desert.

Vintage Land Rover tours are one way to soak up Hegra (Rhodri Andrews)

Escorted tours by vintage Land Rovers with a rawi (local guide) to recite the history of Hegra’s tombs is an enormously popular option in Hegra as they offer a quaint step back in time which immerses visitors to the outdoors. The turquoise convertible jeeps with contrasting cognac leather seats and canvas tops carry seven passengers each and are fully air-conditioned for comfort. Visitors can also join a larger group tour, using a coach that includes a rawi to help visitors uncover Hegra’s secrets.

On your visit be sure to experience the immersive exhibition at the Hegra Welcome Centre. Currently a special limited-time exhibition marks Hegra’s 15th anniversary of being a UNESCO world heritage site. Visitors can see the world’s first reconstruction of a Nabataean woman, affectionately known as ‘Hinat’. Hinat was excavated from one of the tombs in 2008 and visitors can come face to face with her while the exhibition considers what her life in the Nabataean kingdom may have been like.

The iconic Lion Tombs at Dadan (Experience AlUla)

Dadan was a prosperous civilisation that came before Hegra and built on the success of the incense trade. The city was a crossroad along the route for traders who wished to carry frankincense through Dadan. Dadanites, it is believed, imposed toll charges on the traders who wished to pass through. What’s left of this kingdom today is found on a rockface in AlUla. Tombs, far smaller and simpler than those of Nabataeans of Hegra, are carved high on to side of a rocky cliff which overlooks what would have been the city of Dadan. Lions guard the entrance of two particular tombs, suggesting a higher status in society, of those resting within. Today this site undergoing one of the largest archaeological digs in the world, with less than 2-3% of what is believed to have been the lost city of Dadan being uncovered so far.

Nearby, Jabal Ikmah is an open-air library. It is unclear why so many carved their stories on to the rocks here, though it is thought that travellers and locals recorded their stories here, allowing visitors today to help understand how people lived and travelled thousands of years ago. The oldest inscriptions at Jabal Ikmah date back to 644BC. The inscriptions, in several languages, speak of local laws, religious rituals and even commercial transactions.

Dadan and Jabal Ikmah are best explored together on a single tour. A two-hour vintage Land Rover tour will take visitors to the Lion Tombs and the excavation site of Dadan. Expert guides and rawis always accompany visitors on guided tours to answer questions and explain known details of the kingdom. The walking tour of Jabal Ikmah is included in the vintage Land Rover tour and as always, a rawi will help decipher the stories left on the stones. Alternatively, as with exploring Hegra, visitors can enjoy Dadan and Jabal Ikmah by coach and the services of a rawi will be included.