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CULTURE & HERITAGE

Best castles and palaces to visit in Saudi

Home of prophets and kings, conquerors and combatants, Saudi’s ancient palaces and castles have played a central role in the country’s rich history...

Words by SJ Armstrong

Stamping their mark on the desert kingdoms of Saudi, rulers and conquerors have been building sumptuous castles and palaces in the Peninsula for many years.

From the sites that mark the foundation of the House of Saud to desert outposts known by the Prophet himself, the tale of Saudi’s turbulent history unfolds on a tour of its myriad fortresses. Peak over walls that defended against incoming invasions, investigate foundations that date back before the Bronze Age, or recreate the moment that the modern kingdom was established within Riyadh’s castle walls.

Salwa Palace, Diriyah

Golden adobe walls, geometric windows and cleanly curved crenelations all add to the impression that Salwa Palace just emerged straight from the desert itself. Wrought in the same style as the sandstone cities that have stood on the caravan trails for millennia, it encapsulates the traditional Saudi style, in addition to playing a crucial role in the birthplace of the modern state itself. Built in 1766 by AdbulAziz ibn Muhammad al Saud — grandson of the founder of the First Saudi State and namesake of the nation, Muhammad bin Saud al Muqrin — and recently renovated, the palace played host to crucial moments in the establishment of the first Saudi State. Wander the halls that oversaw the unification of the majority of the Arabian Peninsula and see the open court that hosted prestigious guests. Spanning thousands of sq/m, Salwa Palace is a showcase of quintessential Najdi architecture and the most impressive site in Diriyah’s At Turaif, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2010.

Tarout Castle, Qatif

Tarout fortress is located at the top of a hill in the centre of Tarout Island in Qatif, on the east coast and is accessed via a causeway that connects the island to the mainland. The island is thought to be the former heartland of the ancient Dilum Kingdom, that ruled the area more than 4,000 years ago. The castle has been rebuilt several times, with clues from different eras. Relics linked to the worship of the Mesopotamian Ashtar, the goddess of love and war hint to even older foundations. There are even signs that it was a Phoenician temple, dedicated to Astarte, the goddess of war, beauty and healing.

Once Abrahamic ideology usurped the polytheistic religions that prevailed in the earliest era of the Middle East, the original temples were destroyed. The main structure we see today was built in the early 16th century. It is not certain if it was built for locals to protect themselves from Portuguese attacks, or by the Portuguese to protect themselves from Turkish attacks. It was once known as Darin, with the Treaty of Darin being signed on the island in 1915 between Ibn Saud and the United Kingdom. Just three towers now remain but it’s still an impressive sight. The surrounding village has a labyrinth of passageways reminiscent of Portugal or Spain with teak balconies carved with Arabesque patterns.

Al Masmak Palace, Riyadh

Rallying his army for an ambush, the exiled prince Abdulaziz bin Abdul Rahman bin Faisal al Saud approached al Masmak in January 1902. After being driven out to Kuwait, Abdulaziz Al Saud’s conquest of the fort marked the return of the House of Saud to its ancestral home, and the repatriation of the Saudi State Kingdom, with Riyadh as its capital. Exploring the palace on a guided tour, travellers can expect to be taken step-by-step through the famed victory, treading the clay and mud-brick walls. The fortress itself was built in 1865, constructed by Al Saud’s northern rivals. Centrally located in Riyadh’s old quarter, al Masmak mimics the traditional adobe structures of the country’s oldest structures, showcases photos from one of the pivotal moments in Saudi history and houses a collection of historical artifacts, including weapons used in the famed siege.

Zaabal Castle, Al Jouf

Perched atop a mountainous stack north of the city of Sakaka, Zaabal Castle has overlooked the northern deserts of al Jouf for around 300 years. It’s thought to have been built on an even older structure, its foundations being attributed to the same nomadic Nabateans that constructed the elaborate carved structures at Hegra and Petra. Its underpinnings also conceal an elaborate system of wells, used by the inhabitants of Sakaka for centuries. Fenced by tall amber walls topped by triangular parapets, its edged by a turret on each corner, ideally designed for lookouts defending the city below.

Al Murabba Palace, Riyadh

King Abdulaziz Al Saud built his family’s royal residence just outside of the old city of Riyadh. A sprawling complex oriented around a breezy central courtyard, the palace has been the royal family’s official home since 1939 and is now a museum. Having been the designated royal base, it’s possible for travellers to take a peek at the belongings of the family, at their clothes and day-to-day items, their family photos and snaps with passing dignitaries. There are also many records of the country’s recent records of domestic and foreign affairs, with crucial meetings having been conducted inside the palace complex. Wander the halls on a guided tour to gain some perspective on the illusive House of Saud and to weave between the cubic walls, the nine gates that navigate in and out of the historic home and the museum exhibitions showcasing elements of the new nation’s foundation.

Al Malad Castle, Al Baha

Twin fortresses carved atop the historic village of Al Malad, the eponymous castle was constructed by a two brothers some 400 years ago. An outpost of Arab tribes’ fighting forces and a storage spot for the villages’ supplies, the identical stacked stone towers were designed to protect and preserve the village beneath. Take the opportunity to wander the Al Malad Heritage Museum where many rooms showcase life of the area in the past. Displays range from cookware to carpentry and you can even try on the colourful local clothing and have your photo taken.

Practical information

Visas

It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

Getting there & around

With plenty of direct flight links from the UK to Saudi, it’s really easy to get to the country. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.

Local customs

To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

Weather

You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September.

FAQ

Is English spoken in Saudi?

Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

What is the currency of Saudi?

The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?

We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

What’s the time difference in Saudi?

Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.