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CULTURE & HERITAGE

The best cultural landmarks to see in AlUla

Saudi's first UNESCO World Heritage site, AlUla's crimson sandstone cliffs, palm groves and ancient desert scenery are home to a unique collection of heritage sites, all of which have a mysterious air about them...

Words by Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

North-western Saudi is studded with archaeological sites shaped by some 200,000 years of human history, having long been a crossroads between the civilisations of the Nile and Mesopotamia, with a constant stream of travellers passing through the region.

AlUla, some 580km north of Jeddah, was one of several important oases to rest and exchange news along the old Incense Road that led from the southern Arabian kingdoms (modern-day Yemen) through the Arabian peninsula, before splitting to head to either the Mediterranean, the Levant region or east to Mesopotamia. The oasis was also central to the Dadan, Lihyanite and Nabataean kingdoms which thrived here some 2,000-2,500 years ago and who left powerful remainders of their cultures.

Marvel at Hegra, Saudi’s first UNESCO World Heritage site

The Nabataeans’ second city after Petra in Jordan, Hegra is the jewel in the crown of AlUla. Also known as Al-Hijr and Mada’in Saleh, the site contains more than 110 monumental tombs cut into red sandstone cliffs. The most famous, carved out of a massive solitary rock, is the monolithic Tomb of Lihyan, Son of Kuza.
There are ornately decorated burial chambers in nearly every rockface, some secluded, others next to each other, each individually identifiable by marks above their entrance. But Hegra is not only a Nabataean site. Dwellings and rooms, such as the so-called ‘Diwan,’ a large meeting place in Mount Athlab, were carved by the Thamud people who lived in the area sometime before the Nabateans. While there are gaps in understanding the timelines and exact history of Hegra, there is no doubt that it was a hub for civilisations, travellers, merchants, and later pilgrims on their way to the holy cities of Makkah and Madinah, all leaving some influences.

Other sights include pre-Nabatean rock inscriptions, ancient wells and water channels; an 18th-century fort, and even a train station from the early 1900s, when Hegra was a stop along the Hejaz Railway.

Wander AlUla’s Old Town

AlUla’s Old Town is a warren of atmospheric lanes lined by mud-brick buildings, some from the 9th Century. There are around 900 houses, some beautifully restored, others still in need of some attention, along with shaded squares. They are best appreciated from the top of the 150ft-high fort dating from the 10th century. From there you can see the oasis town spread below you, the many palm trees, and the two parts of the old town. One side was the winter residence, more tightly packed for warmth, the other the summer town, with plenty of shade and smooth rooftops for sleeping. The nearby Al Jadidah art district is a creative quarter full of murals, galleries, and studios channelling age-old traditions with innovative approaches, such as the world’s largest hand-painted carpet. This is also the place to come to shop and eat, with traditional restaurants, modern cafes, and plenty of arts and crafts stores.

Go futuristic at Maraya

Approaching Maraya, hidden in the Ashar Valley, it is difficult to make it out at first. This is a hyper-modern building, completely covered in mirrors, reflecting the rocky outcrops, sandy desert, and the sky all around it, rendering it virtually invisible. Maraya, meaning reflection or mirror in Arabic, is not only a unique piece of architecture, and the world’s largest mirrored building, but also a venue for concerts and events, complete with a restaurant led by a Michelin-starred chef. Miraculous inside and out, Maraya is a testament to how old and new, and modern design and nature, can complement each other.

See the past in the city of Dadan

Dadan, the capital of the Kingdom of Dadan (dating from between the late ninth and early eighth century BC), and the Lihyanite Kingdom (5th to 2nd century BC) is an incredibly fascinating site. While the ancient city ruins spread out at the bottom of the steep cliffs of Jabal Dadan (Dadan Mountain), the cliffs themselves were once used as dwelling places, for both the worldly life as well as the afterlife, with square tomb entrances studding the rockfaces. One of the highlights are the Lion Tombs, where the entrances are guarded by carvings of lions. There are old fortifications and wells, plus sets of steep stairs carved out of the rock leading up the cliff faces, an incredible feat of engineering that you’re able to soak up through a pair of binoculars and learn more about at the visitor centre. Another highlight are the thousands of inscriptions, some lengthy compositions, others seemingly mere graffiti, in the ancient language of Dadanitic, a language that was used in the region for some 500 years.

Spy the rock carvings of Jabal Ikmah

Going hand-in-hand with the site of Dadan, Jabal Ikmah lies just next to it, springing up from the countless palm gardens filling the valley. Here, further fine examples of scriptures can be found carved into the rock face, with countless written sections in various scripts, and in ancient languages that so far have been found to include Aramaic, Dadanitic, Safaitic, Thamudic, Minaic, and Nabataean. Some of these languages formed the basis of the modern Arabic language as well as its alphabet. Jabal Ikmah, which is usually visited together with Dadan on guided tours, is nicknamed the Open Library, with archaeologists continuously analysing new findings.

Spy Elephant Rock

Known locally as Jabal Al-Fil (Elephant Mountain), Elephant Rock is AlUla’s grand geological gem. Rising up 52m into the sky and presiding over a pristine desertscape, millions of years of wind and water erosion are to thank for its iconic look. But Elephant Rock’s most magical quality is it looks completely different depending on the time of day you set eyes on it, whether it’s coated in an amber glow at sunrise or turning dusky red at sunset. Whatever shade you see it in, it’s guaranteed to slacken your jaw.

Enjoy one of its many festivals

With the spectacular nature surrounding AlUla, it is not surprising that there are festivals and events taking place throughout the year. The best time to visit is during the winter when it’s cooler and when there are more activities taking place. The late-spring AlUla Skies Festival fills the skies with hot air balloons, while the AlUla Arts Festival, in late winter, has already established itself as an annual must-attend event for international art devotees. For this festival, the valleys and wadis, the desert, and the town, are adorned with contemporary installations from artists around the world. There’s a festival for almost everything in AlUla, from saluting nature’s rejuvenating powers at the AlUla Wellness Festival to Winter at Tantora, a rich cultural celebration that even includes its own citrus festival. Add in festivals celebrating music, the humble date and more, and you can be sure that there’s something happening in AlUla year-round.

Practical information

Visas

It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

Getting there & around

It’s really easy to reach AlUla from both the UK and USA. You have a couple of different options. You can take a direct domestic flight from Riyadh (two hours) or Jeddah (one hour and 30 minutes) or, if you’d like to see a little more of the country, you can hire a car and embark on the 7.5-hour drive from Jeddah. A hire car is the best way of exploring AlUla when you’re there, too. It’s simple to get to Saudi from both the UK and USA, too. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.

Local customs

To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

Weather

You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit the country is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime, depending on where in the country you are, and rarely exceed 30°C. The summer months between June and September can get extremely hot, with temperatures often north of 40°C. But, do as the locals do and head out after dusk when it’s much cooler!

FAQ

Is English spoken in Saudi?

Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

What is the currency of Saudi?

The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?

We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

What’s the time difference in Saudi?

Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.