1. Borneo Rainforest Lodge, Danum Valley
For sustainable luxury in the rainforest you won’t find better than this award-winning lodge. Sitting deep in primary forest, BRL, as it gets called, celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2024, and has been the accommodation of choice for famous naturalists, royals, and documentary makers (think Attenborough, Dame Judi Dench and Wills and Kate). Stay in one of the 30 rooms of different types from chalets through to premium villas which you wont want to leave. The food is generally excellent, and served buffet-style with a good mix of local and international dishes.
Sustainability credentials are particularly impressive with food waste being turned into fertiliser, water being filtered without chemicals, and produce being locally sourced. Guests are invited to find out more.
Guided walks are the key activity here and the trails are available for all levels of fitness with the guides letting each other know of orangutan and other sightings. One don’t miss is a sunrise stroll along the canopy walkway.
This is probably the best place in Sabah to see wild orangutans with 65 known individuals in the vicinity of the lodge. Activities are in groups of 6-8 people but private guides can be hired and customised itineraries arranged.
Activities: Guided nature walks and treks. Canopy walkway. Tubing when river conditions are suitable. Night drives. Special interests can be catered for.
Best for: Orangutans. Red leaf monkeys. Hornbills. Colugo. Chance of elephants
More information: danumvalley.rainforestlodge.com
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2. MY Nature Resort, Sepilok, Sandakan
MY Nature Resort is the ideal first stop in Sabah, as it is conveniently located only two kilometres from the Sepilok orangutan Rehabilitation Centre and Sun Bear Conservation Centre and a short walk from the Rainforest Discovery Centre. The property is quietly set in 25 hectares of rainforest and backs onto the Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve where you can watch out for orangutans in the trees. You can stroll a 300-metre boardwalk through the forest and most evenings you can see giant red flying squirrels glide between the trees.
There are 24 spacious rooms in 12 semi-detached chalets with verandas facing the rainforest, and a good sized freeform swimming pool.
Best for: Flying squirrels. Visiting Sepilok’s numerous attractions.
More information: sitoursborneo.com
3. Abai Jungle Lodge, Kinabatangan
This riverside lodge backing onto Kinabatangan Wildlife Reserve is only accessible by water adding to its remote feel. Its 24 rooms are in semi detached chalets scattered along its boardwalk which then meanders through into the forest and includes watchtowers for views into the canopy. An array of flowering plants attract butterflies and birds, and a male orangutan called Sam sometimes hangs out behind the property or can be found nearby.
Activities: River cruises either way along the river, and into tributaries and an oxbow lake. Lunch in a local family home in the opposite village, giving an opportunity to find out about the Indigenous river people.
Best for: Proboscis monkeys, macaques, orangutan, crocodiles, kingfishers, hornbills. Chance of elephants and otters.
More information: sitoursborneo.com
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4. Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge, Sukau
Sister to the Abai Jungle Lodge, this lodge has a prime location in the growing tourist village of Sukau. Sprawling along the riverfront, it has multiple decking and viewing areas, and there is a small pool and beautiful flowering plants which attract butterflies.
Activities: River cruises, including along the beautiful Menanggul River, made famous by nature documentaries for jumping proboscis and macaque monkeys, which brave the crocodiles by leaping onto the water and swimming across. It may be possible to visit an elephant sanctuary the lodge has a relationship with.
Best for: Proboscis monkeys, macaques, crocodiles, kingfishers, hornbills. Chance of elephants and orangutans
More information: sitoursborneo.com
5. Deramakot Tourist Chalets
Set in a managed forest reserve, with foresters, researchers and volunteers as your neighbours, the tourist facilities at Deramakot are relatively basic but that’s not what you come for. Deramakot is renowned for nocturnal wildlife and is probably your best chance in the world to see clouded leopards, although its far from guaranteed! However, you are likely to spot leopard cats, various civets, Wilson’s flying squirrels, sambar deer and mouse deer. There is a healthy population of orangutans and it’s a stronghold for sun bears although you’ll struggle to see them. Deramakot is a managed forest with selective logging and a mix of primary and secondary forest but this is what makes it particularly good for spotting a range of wildlife you may not see elsewhere. Drives are along the road through the reserve, and you may be lucky enough to see pygmy elephants using it themselves as a highway.
Activities: Night safaris, Day drives, Nature walks
Best for: Various cats. You have a chance of Sunda clouded leopard (sightings average one a week), a higher chance of leopard cat. Civets, Thomson’s flying squirrel. Chance of elephants, including on the way in and out.
To book make pre-arrangements with a tour operator
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6. Utan Rainforest Lodge
Only opened in 2024, this intimate lodge is tucked away on the edge of Sungai Kapur Forest Reserve, adjacent to Tabin Wildlife Reserve and close to palm oil plantations, making it an excellent spot for leopard cats and civets. There are a couple of bird hides for spotting rare endemics, and a camera trap. But the highlight for most visitors are the exclusive boat trips from a nearby jetty, giving access to the river, estuary and ocean. You’re unlikely to bump into other tourists on any of your excursions.
When fully open the facilities will include a small pool. The site misses having a great view, but the rooms, food and service are a cut above many lodges, with superb fresh fish and seafood supplied from nearby fishermen.
Activities: Boat trips (mangroves, river, estuary and open ocean). Night drives. Nature walks both day and night,
Best for: Leopard cats. Civets. Owls, Flying foxes. Moon rats. Rare endemic birds such as the Sabah partridge and Bornean ground cuckoo. Chance of Irrawaddy dolphins, proboscis monkeys, orangutans.
More information: utan.my
The author travelled with Wildlife Worldwide
