How to spend 48 hours in the Lincolnshire Wolds, England
This bucolic patch of the Midlands flies under the radar, but provides a charming and history-packed alternative to England’s more over-touristed places…
Think of ‘wolds’ and you probably think Yorkshire or ‘Cots…’. But in the East Midlands, towards the North Sea coast, spreads a land of low, rolling chalk hills, rural greenery, rich archaeology and comely villages that shares the alluring tag – yet is largely overlooked. “We’re stuck between the Humber and the Wash,” lamented Helen Gamble of the Lincolnshire Wolds Countryside Service, “so there’s no reason for people to pass through.”
The Lincolnshire Wolds are well worth a detour, though. There’s a joy in driving the empty country lanes of this 558-square-kilo-metre National Landscape, in having its wealth of walking trails to yourself, in discovering something that everyone else hasn’t.
-
Birthplace of poet Lord Tennyson (Alamy) -
John Callaby, a local (Alamy)
Not that there’s no human presence. This is a living landscape, worked almost continuously since prehistoric times. The Romans founded fortified settlements, notably at Horncastle and Caistor. The Vikings left place names such as Ulceby and Scamblesby. And, though it’s quiet now, until the 14th century this swathe of fertile farmland was one of the most densely populated places in England. As a result, today it has one of the country’s highest concentration of deserted medieval villages. There are fine examples at spots such as Beesby, Biscathorpe and Brackenborough Hall, a handsome moated manor house where I stayed in the converted stable block. Owner Paul Bennett showed me around the ghostly remnants of all that past agricultural endeavour – the old ‘streets’ and ‘houses’, now merely bumps in the pastures where his cattle graze.
Brackenborough lies just north of Louth, an extremely fine-looking market town – and a good base for roaming the Wolds. Arctic explorer John Franklin, who died in 1847 trying to navigate the Northwest Passage, was born in nearby Spilsby and attended grammar school in Louth. Alfred, Lord Tennyson, who studied at the same school, found inspiration for his poems in spots across the Wolds, from his home village of Somersby to charming Stock with Milland pretty Tealby, where his grandfather lived.
On my visit, I followed in Tennyson’s foot-steps, ambling alongside the Wolds’ rare chalk streams, enjoying lunch in centuries-old pubs, meeting fabulously flouncy Lincoln Long-wool rare-breed sheep – Britain’s largest – and spending a wonderful afternoon browsing antiques in historic Horncastle.
Here’s how to spend 48 hours in the Lincolnshire Wolds
Day 1
Start in Louth, a market town founded in the Saxon era, whose wool trade funded many grand buildings. The 89m spire of St James’ Church– the tallest of any parish church in England – is surrounded by handsome Georgian houses. Amble the Louth Central Heritage Trail, visiting Tennyson’s school, the small museum and the narrow lanes known as the Gatherums. The town is packed with foodie delights, from Lincolnshire stuffed chine at venerable Lakings butchers to Bacì & Co handmade gelato (bacis.co.uk). For lunch, drive to Tealby, possibly the Wolds’ prettiest village, and the thatched Kings Head, dating from 1367. From here, a lovely 6.5km loop walk follows the Viking Way to the12th-century ‘Ramblers Church’, All Saints, near Walesby. Continue west to Market Rasen to browse indie shops and follow the Heritage Tour, or buy award-winning artisan cheese at nearby CoteHill. Return to Louth for a pint at the Woolpack Inn.
Day 2
Steer to the sleepy southern Wolds, where Tennyson’s father was rector of the villages of Bag Enderby and Somersby. A circular 8km walk visits the poet’s childhood home, the tree in which he played and his father’s grave. Drive east to Alford Manor House (£6.50), built in 1611 and reputedly the biggest thatched manor in the country, which has a rural life museum and tea room. Then explore the surrounding town of Alford, which hosts the UK’s longest-running craft market, turning 50 in 2024; the Craft Market Shop is open weekdays and Saturdays. Grab a veggie bite at Soul Foods (23 West Street), then head west. Call in at Gunby Estate (£11), a fine pile built in 1700 with 600 hectares to roam. Or wend through the Wolds to Horncastle, a cobbled market town with Roman heritage and a glut of antiques shops – rummage at Clare Boam and finish the day with cake at cycle shop-cum-bistro Just One More Bike.
“The Wolds are completely underrated. You see so few people that the open space genuinely feels like your space. I’m born and bred in Lincolnshire – a ‘yellowbelly’ through and through – and I love walking the rolling chalk hills and hidden valleys. Walks encompassing the villages of South Elkington and Welton le Wold are real treats. The Shop in South Elkington serves the most delicious homemade cakes and bean-to-cup coffee”
Top things to do in the Lincolnshire Wolds
1. Eat local produce. Look out for creamy Lincolnshire Poacher cheese, made near Ulceby; stuffed chine, a love/hate delicacy of collar bacon with parsley, is available at Lakings; and Lincoln Red Beef farmed on the South Ormsby Estate, which is also home to walking and cycling trails plus award-winning Massingberd-Mundy Gin.
2. Walk a Wolds Walk. A range of illustrated, easy-to-follow leaflets describe routes ranging from 3km to 12km, all across the National Landscape. These can be picked up locally or downloaded. lincswolds.org.uk
3. Look up to the skies. Lincolnshire has played a big role in aviation history, and still hosts air force bases – the Red Arrows are stationed at RAF Waddington – so you’ll likely spot interesting planes overhead. Visit Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre in East Kirkby, a 1940s airfield with a collection of Second World War aircraft including a Lancaster bomber. lincsaviation.co.uk
4. Cycle the National Landscape’s quiet lanes. There are routes for all abilities: the 18.5km Hubbards Hills to Red Hill loop links two beauty spots, or try the 180km Lincolnshire Wolds Cycle Route – four varied circuits from Louth. lincswolds.org.uk
Need to know
Getting there
The Lincolnshire Wolds is a bit out on a limb. Louth is a 4.5-hour drive from London, 3 hours from Birmingham or Manchester. Market Rasen, on the Wolds’ western edge, is served by trains from Leicester and Nottingham; otherwise the closest stations are Lincoln, Skegness and Grimsby. Buses are limited; a few services from Louth spider into the Wolds.
Stay at
Brackenborough Hall Coach House (from £570pw), near Louth, has three characterful apartments sleeping 4-8 in its 18th-century stable block. Holly Cottage (doubles/twins from £90) is a smart B&B in pretty Hagworthingham, in the southern Wolds.
