Paid Promotion

Get beneath the surface of undertouristed Japan

Venture beyond Japan’s busiest destinations and explore the in-between places that offer deeper cultural experiences

Words by Suzy Pope

There’s no shortage of incredible sites and cultural experiences in Japan and because most visitors only know a handful of places, they follow the same busy route from Kyoto’s packed temples to Tokyo’s crammed neon streets. But there are still quiet pockets to discover between the headlines and these are often the spots where you can connect with Japan as it is really lived.

InsideJapan has crafted itineraries connecting visitors with these very spots in undertouristed Japan. And they haven’t just picked these places because they like them; they have selected these places after working closely with the regions and communities who have the capacity and desire for more visitors to aid rural regeneration and halt urban migration. Quite simply, for visitors these places are a better experience because there are fewer people.

Each family-run ryokan, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, and museum and art gallery has been experienced by the team on the ground, so you can delve into lesser-explored cities and towns with confidence. We’ve picked five regions to discover with InsideJapan, where Shinto shrines and ancient temples remain tranquil escapes, and artisan workshops, forest walks and lakeside onsens can be experienced without the crowds.

Discover Nagoya

During the Edo period, Nagoya was developed as a castle town of the Owari ruling class. Bombing in 1945 left little of the original buildings, and Nagoya was rebuilt as a hub of industry. The striking, layered keep of Nagoya Castle has been reconstructed inside and out, so you can still catch a glimpse of the city as it would have been during the days of Samurai and warring shogun rulers. Nagoya sits bang on the main Shinkansen line between Tokyo and Osaka, but people rarely stop here and this should change. At the Tokugawa Art Museum, ancient weaponry, armour and artworks hark back to the days of Owari rule. A thriving port city on the Sea of Japan, Nagoya’s charm isn’t immediately apparent, but digging beneath the surface, you’ll find that modern Japan can be just as fascinating as old-world Edo. Not to be missed in Inuyama, one of the 12 original Edo period castles still standing in Japan today.

Embrace Nagoya’s modern rebirth at the SCMaglev and Railway Park, where the constant advances of JR railways are displayed through simulators and historic rolling stock. Or, hit the shopping arcades in Osu for a taste of retro gaming at Retro Potato and search for vintage treasures at the second-hand American clothing stalls. In Nagoya, you’ll also find some of the best comfort food Japan has to offer. Miso katsu is an umami-rich take on the zingy katsu sauce that usually accompanies a crisp pork cutlet and a fast-food fix can come from a filling rice bowl topped with Hitsumabushi eel – local, freshwater eel served in a thick, sticky sauce.

From Nagoya, it’s just a short train ride to Tokoname, an ancient kiln town where traditional clay pottery has been crafted since the 12th century. The Yakimono pottery walk winds its way past chimneys and kilns that have been in operation for centuries. Perhaps one of the most enjoyable ways to experience Tokoname’s pottery is by sipping tea or coffee from a handmade mug at one of the city’s many artsy cafés. Or, sampling hot sake from tiny ceramic cups at the renowned Sawada Shuzo Sake Brewery, which has been brewing rice wine since 1848.

Get to know Nagoya in depth on InsideJapan’s Samurai Footsteps itinerary.

Experience Toyama

Stretching from the Sea of Japan to the snowy peaks of the Hida Mountains, Toyama Prefecture remains largely undiscovered by international tourism, but it’s not for lack of beauty. The mountains that hold hillside walks and Alpine views have kept urban construction low and the area is abundant in quiet, rural scenery. The Yuki no Otani or “great snow wall” sees a road cut through metre upon metre of bright white snow. Some of the freshest sushi from Toyama Bay fills the standing bars and restaurants of Toyama City. The Amaharashi Coast looks like a painting with its craggy cliffsides and marooned, tree-topped islands off the shore.

Toyama is the perfect place to experience rural Japan and find your zen, perhaps with a stay in a 120-year-old farmhouse among the rice paddies. Rakudo-An has been lovingly restored as a high-end Japanese inn, offering a matcha tea ceremony upon arrival. Rooms are dotted with pieces by local artisans and the terrace looks out over the bright green rice fields. It’s all about unwinding amid the bucolic scenery here, whether it’s green rice fields in summer or brilliant-white snow shimmering across the Tateyama mountains during winter.

Heading into Tonami City, you can take a walk by the river or bask in the beauty of the city’s rainbow tulip parks. Or, embrace the countryside with a trip to Nanto, where the UNESCO World Heritage Gokayama villages look like something from a Studio Ghibli film. Thatch-roofed cottages sit against the forested mountainscape, burrowed at the bottom of a green valley. Life here has barely changed over hundreds of years so it’s a real glimpse into the Japan of the past. Toyama provides a perfect moment of zen between Japan’s megacities like Tokyo and Osaka.

Find inner peace in Toyama with InsideJapan’s Hidden Zen itinerary.

Admire Nagasaki

Nagasaki carries a tragic history as the second city to be hit by an atomic bomb. The Peace Park Museum tells the story of the 1945 bombing and features a 9.7-metre-high Peace Statue, symbolising the people’s wish for peace. During Japan’s long period of isolation from the rest of the world, Nagasaki was the only port open for trade with the West, leaving a distinctly European atmosphere and architectural style in its wake.

In Glover Gardens, you’ll find the oldest Western-style building in Japan, overlooking manicured greens and flowerbeds bursting with colour. While on the tiny, fan-shaped Dejima or “Exit Island”, the Edo-era buildings once made up a Dutch trading post; the only connection between Japan and Europe. Trade routes with Europe had a big impact on Nagasaki’s food traditions, creating a fusion cuisine unique to the city. Don’t miss trying Castella, a dense sponge cake introduced by the Portuguese, or Toruko Rice, a slightly bizarre but tasty medley of katsu cutlet, rice and spaghetti that translates as “Turkish rice.” Boats arriving from across the East China Sea introduced distinctly Chinese flavours and staples to Nagasaki’s food scene, like Sara Udon – crispy noodles topped with vegetables – and kakuni braised pork buns.

On the outskirts of the city, the Nagasaki ropeway is a clear-glass gondola that makes its slow way up to the top of Mount Inasa. From the top, you can enjoy a panorama of the city with the sea and islands floating just beyond. Just north of Nagasaki, the landscape changes from high rises and city streets to verdant green tea fields. Around the coastal town of Higashisonogi, tea plantations offer immersive tours and tastings where you can learn about the cultivation and harvest of local green tea and sip the freshest brew while gazing out over Omura Bay.

Begin your trip in Nagasaki with InsideJapan’s Kyushu Adventure itinerary.

Explore Aomori

In Honshu’s undiscovered north, Aomori comes to life in summer when a series of dazzling festivals take place across the prefecture. Depending on the exact month or week, you might see the towering, illuminated floats of the Tachineputa Festival in Goshogawara, hear the pounding beat of taiko drums at Neputa Village, or witness the dazzling lights at Aomori Nebuta Festival in Aomori City itself. Whatever the time of year, the Nebuta Warasse Museum displays the dramatic lantern floats steeped in Nebuta tradition, depicting warriors, dragons and gods. Here, you can try taiko drumming yourself. Days in Aomori can be spent exploring local markets, admiring the view along the waterfront and sampling the crisp sweetness of the prefecture’s giant Fuji apples. The city is also renowned for filling bowls of miso-laced ramen.

To fully appreciate Aomori’s lack of crowds, stay on the shore of Lake Towada. This vast, turquoise lake is the result of a volcanic caldera. Meandering hiking routes follow the Oirase Mountain Stream where water cascades over small waterfalls and wooden bridges criss-cross over the river. A night or two at a luxury hot spring resort offers the utmost in tranquillity and peace where you can soak sore muscles in the naturally-heated onsen after a day hiking in the countryside.

History and nature combine in the city of Hirosaki. In spring, hundreds of cherry trees blossom, perfectly framing the striking white keep of Hirosaki Castle in a haze of pink. The city also boasts a preserved Samurai district where some restaurants host live tsugaru-jamisen music – an ancient three-stringed lute-like instrument played fast and frantic. Explore the cute cafés and restaurants where the local apple harvest is used to create elaborate, sweet parfaits, pies, French-inspired choux pastries, and delectable sauces for curries and meat cutlets.

Find the festival spirit in Aomori with InsideJapan’s Undiscovered North itinerary.

Uncover Yamaguchi

On the western tip of Honshu, Yamaguchi Prefecture bridges the gap between the Sea of Japan and the Seto Inland Sea. This is possibly Honshu at its most undiscovered, as Yamaguchi sits between the mountains and the Japan Sea Coast. It’s just that bit trickier to get to, which is why many pass it by. The coast and mountains are pocked with twisting cave systems, some of which are open to the public to view. Empty beaches lead to a turquoise sea and coastal shrines boast beautiful views. On the Japan Sea, the delightful small town of Hagi is rich in history. Hagi was once a great power base during the Warring States Period and has a preserved Samurai district where some of the ancient mansions, merchant houses and temples are open to the public for a glimpse of Samurai life.

A particularly interesting way of seeing Yamaguchi is by traditional steam train. The SL Yamaguchi-go railway chugs across the rural scenery between Yamaguchi City and Tsuwano in the neighbouring Shimane Prefecture. Restored from 1932, “The Lady” steam locomotive is a vision of wood-clad nostalgia as it puffs up to the platform. The two-hour journey takes you past mountains swathed in forest, patchwork fields and tiny hamlets where folk still tend the land. Watch the scenery unfold slowly while enjoying snacks and box lunches from the trolley service.

At Tsuwano, you’ll find a picturesque castle town where the red-roofed old houses of the Samurai district, beautiful temples and carp-filled canals have earned it the moniker the “Little Kyoto” of Shimane. It has the air of a living museum, protected by a fringe of beautiful mountains. Tsuwano and Yamaguchi prove you can experience quintessential Japan – the Samurai history, mountain-backed landscape, peaceful shrines and delicious cuisine – all without the crowds. Not to miss is the small hot spring town of Nagato Yumoto Onsen, sitting close to the Yamaguchi coast. The town has gone through a period of regeneration championing not only its appealing hot spring culture, but also the intricate crafts and food of the area. This is where you can witness an Inari shrine with striking red tori gates that tumble from the coastline into the sea.