Destination guide: Slavonia, Croatia

Tucked away in Croatia’s easternmost corner, Slavonia is a well-kept secret. After experiencing its mosaic of golden fields, award-winning vineyards and the legendary Black Slavonian pig which feasts on acorns to give its meat a rich, nutty depth, you can finish off your adventure in one of the many thermal spas.

Don’t expect glittering nightlife in Slavonia­ – it is all about slowing down, soaking in breathtaking landscapes and indulging in Croatia’s celebrated food and wine scene.

Osijek is a quirky medieval city which blends baroque charm with an up-and-coming craft beer scene; whilst picturesque Vinkovci is home to some of the country’s most immersive traditional festivals. The dramatically named Vukovar boasts history and elegance, and the must-see restored Eltz Palace is now a delightful town museum.

Kopački Rit is pure magic for nature lovers; a sprawling wetland where herons glide, deer dart and rare birds glide through the reeds. Alternatively, hire a kayak and take a slow drift down the Drava, Sava or Danube rivers, where the scenery unfolds at a delightfully leisurely pace.

The beating heart of Slavonia is the lively university city of Osijek. Stroll along the Drava River promenade and spot white storks nesting in the trees, or climb the majestic Osijek Cathedral ­­­– a neo-Gothic masterpiece and one of the tallest churches in Croatia, before wandering through the grand baroque streets of Tvrđa – the historic fortress district, where pastel-hued buildings, cosy cafés and wine bars tempt you to stop and linger.

In contrast, the Baranja region is a rustic gem with a slower pace, known for its traditional fishing villages and unique fusion of Hungarian, Serbian and Croatian influences. Sample local specialities like fish stew and čvarci (crispy pork fat); or if you’re feeling thirsty, head over to Ilok, which is famed for its long winemaking tradition. It’s home to several medieval wine cellars serving the famous, aromatic Traminac (Gewürztraminer) which was even served at Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation.

Who knew that Slavonia had beaches? The teeny town of Draž is known as the Maldives of Baranja! On the banks of the Drava near Osijek, you’ll find the popular Copacabana beach; or hop on a boat to the Island of Vukovar, which becomes an open-air cinema during the annual film festival.

For anyone with an appreciation of horses, the Đakovo State Stud Farm is home to the majestic Lipizzaner breed. The town hosts the Lipizzaner Jubilee every June, which is a unique opportunity to witness these majestic animals in action, while they showcase their extraordinary skills in dressage and dancing.

Slavonia’s culinary traditions shine in November, when Čvarakfest, a winter fair in Karanac, celebrates the region’s love of cured meats and traditional dishes.

Whether you’re savouring a glass of graševina in a centuries-old wine cellar, watching Lipizzaners in action, or drifting down the Danube, Slavonia invites you to slow down and savour the beauty of Croatia’s best-kept secret.

Throughout the year, small villages put on big celebrations. One of the most memorable is the Spring Festival of Queens in Gorjani, which hosts an impressive carnival to celebrate the Procession of Ljelje. It takes place on Pentecost Sunday every year; expect traditional costumes, harmonious tamburaška music, lots of food and dancing.

Other customs can be uncovered in Karanac’s Ethno Village, a living museum of Slavonian life. With authentic wooden houses, open-hearth kitchens and homemade delicacies such as štrukli (savoury pastry), fresh cheeses and locally sourced meats, it is a step back in time. Close by is the tranquil, man-made Lake Borovik which boasts a picture-perfect location for a dip, surrounded by dense forests and scented flowers.

In the heart of Slavonia, Ružica Grad is an impressive castle standing on a steep rock surrounded by the Papuk forest. Since the origin of the medieval structure remains unknown, it has become the stuff of legend over the years. Folklore says it used to be the meeting place of fairies, which locals are happy to confirm over a cold beer in the town.

The quiet village of Orahovica is home to some of Slavonia’s best-kept wine secrets, with family-run vineyards producing fine wines like the Grk variety. Alternatively, the Baranja Wine Route offers a hidden gem of Croatia’s wine culture, with small, family-owned wineries offering a chance to taste wines such as graševina, frankovka, and cabernet sauvignon, along with regional specialities like vinski vina (wine-based brandy).

Although close to Kopački Rit, Osijek is still considered somewhat off the tourist trail. Home to Austrian nobles in the 18th century, it is spliced by the River Drava and defined by its baroque architecture, riverside promenade and elegant mansions.

Public transport is limited, so renting a car is the best way to explore the region. Bear in mind that most shops are closed on Sundays apart from larger supermarkets and tourist shops. Don’t forget to try fiš-paprikaš (fish stew with paprika) and tipping at 10% is welcomed.