Discover the best of Dalmatia in the off-season 

Summer has a way of lingering in Dalmatia long after the high-season crowds have left. Come to Split in early autumn – or perhaps drop by some of its coastal neighbours and nearby Adriatic islands – and the water’s still warm, the cuisine is as delectable as ever, the landscapes captivating and the beaches are beckoning. Slip into a deliciously slow pace of life as you soak up Croatian sunshine by the shimmering Adriatic. Take your time while you uncover some of Dalmatia’s most fascinating cultural gems and dive into ancient history that’s literally at your feet. Here’s what to expect in off-season Dalmatia. 

Split is home to one of Croatia’s most extraordinary ancient sights. UNESCO-listed Diocletian’s Palace, built in the 3rd century by Roman emperor Diocletian, forms much of Split’s old town – or, rather, its atmospheric ruins do. Colonised by Split’s residents centuries ago, the columns, walls and arches of the ruins now shelter cafés, shop, flats, museums and churches – including the impressive 4th-century St Dominus Cathedral where Diocletian is buried.  

 Head just outside Split for more Roman history at Salona, the ancient city whose ruins include a 2nd-century amphitheatre, basilica, burial grounds, temples and even vineyards. You can see treasures from Salona at the Archaeological Museum of Split near the old town. Game of Thrones fans who recognise Split as one of the series’ filming locations make a beeline to the museum in the old town for its displays of costumes and props. Art lovers can admire the compelling works at Meštrović Gallery, where Croatia’s most famous sculptor, Ivan Meštrović, built a palatial summer home overlooking the sea at the foot of Marjan Hill. 

Visit nearby Trogir to explore its exquisite old town, set on its own island. Lose yourself in its UNESCO-listed lanes full of Romanesque, baroque and Renaissance architecture. 

Croatia’s second-largest city also has one of its most appealing green spaces. Jutting into the sea from Split’s western side, hilly Marjan peninsula is crisscrossed with hiking trails, parks, gardens and wonderful viewpoints offering you vistas of the city and the sea. Wander along its tree-shaded footpaths, breathing in the scent of sun-warmed Mediterranean pine as you pass tiny stone chapels. As autumn draws nearer, be prepared for a dazzling display when the leaves change colour. 

Hikers who want a challenge can head south to Makarska, gateway to Biokovo Nature Park. Start at the Biokovo Skywalk, a D-shaped, glass-bottomed walkway giving you heart-stopping views of the cliffs below and the sea beyond. Then hit the trails in Biokovo’s dramatic mountains including Croatia’s third-highest peak, Sveti Jure. 

Between Makarska and Split is one of Dalmatia’s most enthralling sights – the Cetina River and canyon that slices through the pretty coastal town of Omiš. Follow the hiking trails to the cliffs overlooking the river, or, for an adrenaline boost, go for a rafting adventure in the midst of autumnal splendour. There’s even more excitement in store if you take one of the exhilarating ziplines whizzing above the Cetina. 

Months of summertime heat have kept the waters of the Adriatic at the perfect temperature for lazy swims in the autumn sunshine without the crowds. In fact, the European Environment Agency ranked Croatia’s beaches as among the cleanest in Europe. Check out the pebbly beaches tucked into Marjan’s indented coastline, including Ježinac (by the Meštrović Gallery) and neighbouring Kaštelet. Right at Marjan’s western end is the long expanse of Kašjuni Beach sheltered by pines and cliffs. If you don’t want to stray too far from Split’s centre, relax on the sands of the city’s main Bačvice Beach and watch the lively spectacle of locals playing games of picigin, a beach ballgame unique to Split.  

Check out the string of beaches along Split’s eastern coast, especially the newly renovated Žnjan Beach. Carry on further eastwards towards Brela to reach one of Dalmatia’s most beautiful beaches, the pine-backed pebbles at Punta Rata. From Split, you’re only an hour away by catamaran to Croatia’s most famous beach, the V-shaped Zlatni Rat beside the village of Bol on the island of Brač. It’s a favourite place for windsurfers to make the most of the sea breezes that blow along Brač’s southern cost. 

Freshly grilled fish slicked with local olive oil enjoyed on a restaurant terrace by the water’s edge – that’s a Dalmatian experience that’s hard to resist. Add to the mix more classic Dalmatian dishes – deliciously rich fish stew called brudet, cuttlefish-ink risotto, beautifully grilled squid with a traditional side dish of blitva (chard with garlicky potatoes), mussels in a buzara sauce with wine and garlic.   

Meat-eaters can feast on spit-roasted lamb, pašticada (braised beef usually served with gnocchi), plus flavour-packed pršut, similar to prosciutto, and tangy sheep’s milk cheese. One of Dalmatia’s must-try dishes is meat or octopus cooked in a peka, a cast-iron bell-shaped pot smothered in embers in which meat is cooked slowly for hours, resulting in incredible tenderness.  

Wander round Split’s food market beside Diocletian’s Palace for a preview of the seasonal and organic produce that ends up on restaurant plates. You’re spoilt for choice among Split’s restaurants, from sleek waterfront places to rustic bistros tucked into alleyways or along the hilly streets of Varoš neighbourhood.  

Café culture is as much a fixture of Dalmatian life as its cuisine. Here, coffee – like life – is to be lingered over and enjoyed.