CULTURE & HERITAGE

Discover the highlights of Diriyah

Often considered the birthplace of Saudi, Diriyah is where you can soak up the country’s culture and heritage in microcosm…

Words by Jen Curcio

Nestled along the banks of the Wadi Hanifa, a mere stone’s throw away from the busy heart of Riyadh, lies a magical place where history meets modernity.

Steeped in history – it was the setting for the founding of the first Saudi state in 1727 and the ancestral seat of the House of Al-Saud, the ruling royal family of Saudi – Diriyah is an enchanting oasis offering travellers a journey through the rich tapestry of Saudi’s past, present and future, that today comes brimming with heritage sites, museums, art galleries, exciting new restaurants and a slew of luxury hotels that are reinventing the city as holiday hotspot.

 

What’s more, as a flagship project of the Kingdom’s Vision 2030, there’s set to be plenty more to explore. Here are just seven of many unmissable highlights to add to your bucket list…

1

Soak up history at At-Turaif

The first capital of the Saudi dynasty until 1818 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2010, the historic centre of At-Turaif is perhaps the most famous spot in Diriyah.

 

What is now essentially an open-air museum that bears the city’s signature architectural style of the Najdi, there’s no better way to spend a day then getting lost among its streets of restored mudbrick palaces, mosques, former defensive towers and curated galleries that offer a rare glimpse into a world that was once well out of reach.

 

At-Turaif is also home to a number of museums that house different handicrafts, weapons, and utensils from the late 18th and early 19th centuries, plus plenty of other important historical sites like the Salwa Palace, Saad bin Saud Palace, At Turaif Bath House, and the Imam Mohammad bin Saud Mosque. Be sure to bring your camera along for this one.

Building

2

Wander around Al Bujairi

Any trip to Diriyah should start at Al Bujairi – a bustling district boasting both local and international restaurants and stores and an architectural dream inspired by the Najdi style of the UNESCO World Heritage site of At-Turaif that it overlooks.

 

The star of the show, Bujairi Terrace opened late last year as a luxury dining destination home to a mix of world-renowned restaurants in addition to Middle Eastern and Saudi eateries. Highlights include Michelin-star restaurants Chez Bruno (try anything with black truffle), Hakkasan, Long Chim and Tatel, as well as homegrown brands like Takya, Maiz and Altopiano, a Middle Eastern-inspired Sicilian restaurant that uses only fresh, seasonal and Saudi-grown ingredients where possible.

 

Still hungry for more? Stick around post dinner, when guests are regularly treated to live shows, cultural and historic programmes and performances by Saudi artists and musicians.

3

Marvel at the Salwa Palace

A four-storey marvel that was once the centre of royal power in Saudi (and the original home of the Al-Saud royal family), Salwa Palace – which translates to solace or comfort in Arabic – is a must-visit on any Diriyah itinerary.

 

Spend a morning exploring the narrow hallways of what was once home to the Kingdom’s early leaders or, alternatively, why not pack up a picnic in one of the many surrounding green areas and parks and admire it from the outside during a relaxing afternoon with family and friends? If those walls could talk…

Buildings

4

Stroll lakeside in the Wadi Hanifa Valley
Reaching 120km in length as it winds from Diriyah around the core of Riyadh and lined with pretty date trees, is it any surprise that Wadi Hanifa Valley is one of the most popular spots for a leisurely stroll or bike ride on the outskirts of the city? Maybe, since it was once a waste disposal site. Its transformation has been staggering and it’s now home to many wonderful parks, restaurants, cafés and, of course, a picturesque stream on which you can even cycle along and enjoy the views in all their glory, the valley’s numerous water channels, green corridors, walkways and picnic spots make it a major attraction for both locals and tourists just 15 minutes outside of Riyadh.
River flowing

5

Visit its museums

Also known as the ‘Pearl of Saudi’, Diriyah is the beating heart of the Kingdom’s 300-plus years of culture, history and heritage, and you can discover it all at the Diriyah Museum.

 

Found inside the Salwa Palace, the museum begins in AD400, and tells the story of the first Saudi state through models, maps, documents and illustrations. Elsewhere it showcases the progression of the Al-Saud royal family tree throughout each century, while you won’t want to leave without setting eyes upon the replica of the Al-Ajrab sword owned by the founder of the second Saudi state, Imam Turki ibn Abdullah.

 

This is just the start and Diriyah has plenty of excellent museums revealing different parts of its heritage and identity. Head to At-Turaif, where you can wander the Horse Museum, Military Museum, Traditional Architecture Museum and Social Life Museum to really get to know Diriyah’s past.

Lady walking in the museum

6

Learn about heritage crafts

With Saudi’s ambitious plans for the future envisioning a thriving culture inspired by the region’s rich heritage, Diriyah shines a spotlight on the many heritage crafts that have made the city so great. We’re talking wicker crafting, jewellery making, woodwork, building with mud and other similar crafts, all of which can be discovered among the many local stores and souks.

 

Make a beeline for the Period Village where visitors can learn the ways of the past, recreating life as it was 300 years ago through markets and craft stores, experiential workshops and traditional food offerings that will offer plenty of bang for your buck.

7

Get a feel for the cafe culture

As Saudi is a country where alcohol is entirely prohibited, you’ll find coffee to be the focal point at many social gatherings in Diriyah, which has experienced a coffee shop boom over recent years.

 

In traditional Saudi cafes, coffee beans are coarsely ground and boiled in a coffee pot or dall with cardamoms and saffron often added before being served in small cups known as finjal, while those after a taste of home can find more internationally-influenced outposts like the Instagram-friendly Brunch and Cake, Angelina and Cova Pasticceria. Don’t be surprised if you find locals sipping coffee 24 hours a day – it’s an integral part of their culture, after all.

Chairs and table outside

Practical information

It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

With plenty of direct flight links from the UK to Riyadh, it’s really easy to get to the Saudi capital. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C. The Saudi Public Transport Company (SAPTCO) operates several bus routes in the city, while taxis, ride-hailing apps like Uber and Careem, and hiring a car offer even more flexible ways to navigate Riyadh and, more importantly, reach the historic city of Diriyah. Due to launch in early 2024, the Riyadh Metro will transform the city’s public transport network further, with six Metro lines and 85 stations planned.

To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit the country is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime, depending on where in the country you are, and rarely exceed 30°C. The summer months between June and September can get extremely hot, with temperatures often north of 40°C. But, do as the locals do and head out after dusk when it’s much cooler!

FAQ

Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.

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