Discover Zadar from every perspective
From a historic seafront city to a flourishing hinterland and hidden Adriatic islands, here’s how to experience this beautiful Croatian region…
Words by Mary Novakovich
With a history spanning millennia, a dreamy waterfront location, a dramatic, mountainous hinterland and idyllic islands a ferry ride away, Zadar is one of Croatia’s most alluring cities. Here along the northern Dalmatian coast, you’ll find a magical combination of natural and manmade beauty, delectable cuisine, excellent wines and a seductive easy-going way of life. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, a beach lover or looking for adventure, Zadar and its surrounding region have just what you need for your Croatian holiday.
(Image: Galevac is an islet opposite Preko, Ivan Čorić)
The historic city of Zadar
The fascinating history of Croatia’s oldest continuously inhabited city is inescapable in the old town, which sits on its own little peninsula. In just one square you can travel back to the 1st century BC when the ancient Romans started to build their Forum and then pop into the 9th-century Byzantine St Donatus Church, now used for classical concerts. Its neighbour, St Anastasia’s Cathedral, was built during the 12th and 13th centuries and has fabulous views from its belltower.
Cross the square to the 11th-century Benedictine Monastery before coming up against the unmistakably mid-20th-century building that houses the Archaeological Museum which takes you back to the prehistoric era. All the while, you’ll be in the midst of lively café terraces and feeling the sea breezes coming off the Adriatic while sipping a glass of Maraschino.
Dive into the narrow marble lanes towards one of Zadar’s prettiest spots, People’s Square (Narodni Trg), whose buzzing cafés are surrounded by stately Renaissance architecture. Look out for the 16th-century Loggia, which is a now a handsome space for art exhibitions. From here it’s a few minutes’ walk to the Land Gate, one of the main surviving gates of Zadar’s city walls built during the 16th century by the Venetians. Many of the bastions are still standing, which you can see if you walk along the eastern side of the old town’s peninsula. Beach lovers will want to walk a little further south to the pebbly stretch of Kolovare Beach.
Near the city walls are two of Zadar’s must-sees. The daily food market is irresistible – a mouthwatering selection of organic produce, olive oils and cheeses as well as a fish market. Then there’s the Museum of Ancient Glass, which showcases the history of the Zadar region through its compelling collection of ancient glassware.
Wander towards the northern tip of the peninsula to find two relatively recent additions to Zadar’s cultural life. Spreading across the port are the sparkling floor panels that make up Greeting to the Sun, one of two art installations by Croatian artist Nikola Bašić. Come at night to watch them light up like a disco dancefloor. Then sit on the wide concrete steps of the Sea Organ and listen to the haunting sounds of water running through undersea pipes.
(Image: Forum in Zadar, Fabio Šimićev)
Zadar’s hidden hinterland
Zadar’s many charms and its beaches north and south of the city are just the beginning of the region’s story. Its hinterland is an enticing patchwork of family-run wineries, farm restaurants and olive groves, particularly in the fertile area of Ravni Kotari. Look out for roadside restaurants, many of which serve dishes cooked under a peka. This cast-iron bell-shaped pot covered in embers cooks meat and vegetables slowly for hours, resulting in an incredible succulence.
Carry on a little further to reach Karinsko More and Novigradsko More, two connected inland seas whose waters flow through a channel into the Adriatic. It’s an enchanting area of tiny seaside villages and laid-back beaches, a place where you can feel yourself getting pleasantly lulled by the slow pace of Dalmatian life. But if you want an adrenalin rush, the Zrmanja River flows into Karinsko More and invites you to explore its rapids and waterfalls on an exhilarating rafting or kayaking journey. Prepare to be awed by dramatic scenery when you enter the Zrmanja Canyon, either on the water or by car if you drive to one of several viewpoints to take in wondrous views. There are more adventures in store if you veer off the Zrmanja and join its tributary, Krupa, into lush landscapes that are just as exciting when explored on foot.
The further north you go, the deeper you get into the Dinaric Alps and their limestone peaks and foothills. Drive past the small town of Gračac and follow the twisting mountainous road towards the tiny village of Suvaja and one of the area’s most vivid sights – the source of the Una River. The wooden trail leading uphill to the secluded spring eventually reveals shades of blue and turquoise which are quite extraordinary.
As you make your way back to Zadar, don’t miss the chance to visit Nin, Croatia’s oldest royal town and home to long, wide, sweeping sandy beaches. It looks like something out of a fairy tale, with the old town on its own island connected by narrow bridges and where a sandy spit curves protectively in front. The acres of salt pans surrounding this medieval town give a broad hint as to Nin’s importance in Croatia’s salt production over the centuries.
(Image: Zrmanja River, Zadar Region)
Zadar’s lesser-known islands
Surrounded by dozens of islands of all sizes, Zadar offers the chance to escape to so many different worlds. For sheer convenience, you can’t beat the strangely shaped island of Pag, which is connected to the mainland by a bridge. Pag’s unusual terrain – almost like a lunar landscape in places but speckled with salt-encrusted wild herbs and olive groves – make it the perfect spot to make its much-loved sheep’s milk cheese called paški sir. Visit one of the cheesemakers to learn how this firm, tangy cheese is made and how the island’s flora and the Adriatic’s infamous bura wind give the cheese its distinctive flavour.
There’s another Pag tradition worth seeking out when you visit the delightful Pag Old Town and explore its Venetian-style lanes and squares. Look out for the Pag Lace Gallery in the main square and discover how this ancient tradition entered the list of UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. For a mellow dose of Pag’s natural side, head to Kolansko Blato, a nature reserve whose footpaths are bordered by wildflowers and herbs and echo to the sounds of the island’s rich birdlife.
When you’re strolling along Zadar’s waterfront, you’ll spot two large islands in front of you, Ugljan and Pašman, both popular boltholes for the people of Zadar since the days when noble families built their summer residences here centuries ago. You’ll immediately see why – crisscrossed with olive groves, orchards and vineyards, and connected to each other by a bridge, Ugljan and Pašman invite lazy days of rambling through the countryside or relaxing on pebbly beaches, perhaps hiking up to the 6th-century ruins of Fort St Michael on Ugljan for superb views and sunsets. From Ugljan you can reach Croatia’s smallest inhabited islands: take the little boat that shuttles from the village of Preko to tiny Ošljak for hikes along tree-shaded paths before lunch at a waterfront restaurant. From Preko you can’t miss Galevac about 80 yards away, a forested speck that nevertheless has room for a 15th-century Franciscan monastery and pebbly beaches shaded by pines.
Head further afield to the suitably named Dugi Otok (Long Island), home to beautiful Sakarun Beach and Telašćica Nature Park, the latter a bay of six islets and 25 coves surrounded by olive groves and pine and oak trees. Dive into those clear waters after a hike through fragrant forests.
(Image: Preko, Ivan Čorić)
Zadar’s refreshing mountains
The mountains are calling when you’re in the Zadar region. You’re less than an hour’s drive from the Velebit mountain range, which is where you’ll find Paklenica National Park along its southern slopes. The authorities had the foresight to preserve this enormous forest complex back in 1949 when it became a protected national park so that future generations could enjoy its breathtaking ruggedness and go deep into the heart of this green giant.
The stars of the park are the hulking great canyons of Velika and Mala Paklenica, and between them and the rest of the park there are nearly 200km of hiking trails, plus mountain biking trails along the base. Some are easy enough for all levels of hikers to enjoy, while others are for those who really love a challenge.
Hike through beech forests past karst cliffs and herb-covered mountain meadows, cooling off in rushing streams, having a refreshing drink in a mountain hut and taking in fabulous panoramic views. Aim for the park’s highest peaks – Liburnija (1,709m), Sveto Brdo (1,753m) and Vaganski Vrh (1,757m) all reward you with superlative views of the mountains and, in some parts, the Adriatic.
To some people, the mention of Paklenica means one thing: rock climbing. Over the years, it’s become one of Europe’s main rock-climbing destinations – and Croatia’s biggest – with more than 500 different routes for all levels of climbers, including children. It’s also the setting for the annual springtime International Climbers’ Meeting, when climbing enthusiasts from around the world take part in various events and competitions.
Not all of Paklenica’s attractions are quite so visible. Manita Peć is the only one of the park’s many caves that is accessible to the public, and it’s an underground wonder of fascinating cave formations you can visit only on a guided tour. It takes about 90 minutes to reach the cave, so plan your walk to coincide with the guided tour. Another striking underground sight are the Cerovačke Caves, the largest cave complex in Croatia. A guided visit of each cave takes around 50 minutes and allows you to delve into the geological history of the Zadar region.
Paklenica National Park’s nearest town is Starigrad, which makes an excellent base for more active adventures. From here you can join hair-raising 4×4 offroad rides through the Velebit mountains. And as Starigrad is on the waterfront, you can rent a canoe or kayak for leisurely explorations of the coast before you return for a relaxing swim at one of Starigrad’s beaches.
(Image: Paklenica National Park, Aleksandar Gospić Photography)
Feeling inspired?
Say YES! to everything in Zadar and plan your immersive journey today.
(Image: Cheese and olive oil from Pag, Zadar Region)
