Ecuador’s beating heart

Quito’s abundant biodiversity

Quito is a capital draped in nature – discover how best to uncover its many vibrant wonders

Words by Karen Edwards

Sitting on the slopes of the Pichincha volcano, the Ecuadorian capital is renowned for being a melting pot of Indigenous and European culture. Step beyond the northwest city limits, however, and an unexpected natural beauty unfolds, across thousands of hectares of regenerated land and protected reserves. Ecuador’s Andean Chocó, now a framework of conserved forest, provides a vital conservation corridor for wildlife to migrate between the mountains and the Pacific coast. From hummingbirds to giant anteaters, frogs to the spectacled bear, this is where to go in search of the nature on Quito’s doorstep.

Take a thrilling swing high above the city of Quito (Visit Quito)

Yunguilla Valley

Fascinating Yunguilla was once on the route of the ancient Yumbo traders, who would transport ceramics, cacao beans and native fruits from the Andes to the coast. To assist their journeys, they created sunken paths known as ‘culuncos’. 

Yunguilla Valley, Ecuador
The Yunguilla valley is home to an abundance of wildlife (Visit Quito)

Incredibly, in Yunguilla, these ancestral tracks are still preserved, and visitors are invited to walk the guided 4km Guanto Pungo-Pelagallo route that runs into the surrounding nature reserve. The dug-out track can be as deep as three metres and is now a wildlife shelter – you can spot hummingbirds and tapirs along the way. Even the Andean spectacled bear has been seen along the path.

https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/ecuadors-beating-heart-quitos-abundant-biodiversity/
Enjoy an authentic stay in the Yunguilla Valley (Visit Quito)

Booking a homestay experience with a Yunguilla community member is a great overnight option and gives you time to meet the local artisans who have developed traditional delicacies into small enterprises. Sample homemade cheeses, yoghurts and sweet mountain papaya jam on doorsteps, while the family-run Mirador’s delectable pork ribs doused in chilguacán sauce is not to be missed. 

Quito, homestay
La casa de los abuelos" translates to "the house of the grandparents" (Visit Quito)

To reach Yunguilla the scenic (but strenuous) way, take the 36km cycle route from Calacalí through the Pululahua volcano – you won’t regret it.

Bellavista Cloud Forest

Thanks to its optimal sunlight-absorbing location on the steep slopes of the Andean mountains, the Bellavista Cloud Forest tends to be in bloom all year round. Hike the 10km of seemingly impenetrable trails that wind through this reserve and you’re bound to come across colourful orchids, ferns and bromeliads (tropical flowering plants), with pollinators – from butterflies to the sun angel-throat hummingbird – often spotted among the flowers. Brightly-colourful tanagers, swallows and wrens are also a part of the view here. 

bellavista Cloud Forest sign, Ecuador
The Bellavista Cloud Forest is in bloom year-round (Shutterstock)

When you reach higher altitudes, prepare to be blown away by the low-lying clouds that churn over the canopy, adding to the mystery and wonder of this biodiversity-rich environment. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of the endemic olinguito – a rare, racoon-esque mammal – discovered here in 2013.

For those working hard to protect Bellavista behind the scenes, tourism couldn’t be more important. Since 1991, income from visitors has helped owners Richard Parsons and Gloria Nicholls prevent Bellavista land from being converted into pastures. Funds go towards the park rangers who patrol the forest, the guides who share their knowledge, and the biodiversity research taking place every day.

Bellavista, Ecuador
The blue- winged mountain tanager lives in the Bellavista Cloud Forest (Visit Quito)
Hummingbirds at Bellavista, Ecuador
Tiny hummingbirds can be seen at Bellavista (Visit Quito)

Santa Lucía Reserve

Enjoy a holistic ecotourism experience in the billowing primary forest of Santa Lucía Reserve – where conservation is at the heart of every aspect of your stay. The onsite eco-lodge and private cabanas rely on renewable energy to power operations – with bespoke menus keeping food waste to a minimum. Meanwhile, guests get to indulge in traditional dishes such as corn-based empanadas, fried plantain and yucca from the organic garden. There’s even a chance to make your own quimbolito – a succulent pastry made with cream cheese, steamed within a banana leaf.

Look out for the Andean condor swooping overhead (Visit Quito)

With 400 species of birds on the checklist, don’t miss the opportunity to explore the six hours of trails to see the plate-billed mountain toucan, Andean guan and the scarlet-coloured cock-of-the-rock. The latter, a distinctive bird known for its dramatic mating ritual, is most likely seen on an early morning guided hike to visit the ‘lek’, where a male courtship display takes place. For those looking for a more adventurous way of getting around, a guided walk along a deeply trenched Yumbo culunco awaits. This ancestral path leads you through giant ferns, rivers and even a banana plantation – with dips in freshwater pools along the way – to the neighbouring reserve of Maquipucuna.

Mashpi Reserve

Before becoming a protected reserve in 2001, the Andean Chocó was at risk of disappearing due to widespread deforestation. At the time, scientists had estimated that 95% of Chocó’s low montane forest had been logged. Today the Mashpi Reserve is a prolific biodiversity hotspot, with 22 new species (including the Mashpi glass frog and Mashpi magnolia) discovered within its parameter. 

Glass frog
The Mashpi glass frog is just one of many new species that has been discovered here (Visit Quito)

While the typical tanagers and hummingbirds hang around in abundance, there are also rare creatures roaming this low-montane forest ecosystem, such as tapirs, ocelots and pumas.

Mashpi Lodge hotel building surrounded by plants
Mashpi Lodge is the perfect base for exploring the surrounding nature (Visit Quito)

Perched among the copal trees, Mashpi Lodge (featured in our 2025 WanderSleeps), with its panoramic views, is the ideal basecamp for exploring the reserve’s 15 trails, flowing rivers and plunging waterfalls. A more laid-back approach can be enjoyed on the exclusive, open-air, dragonfly cable car which stretches across 2km of canopy. Even reaching Masphi can be an adventure if you choose to cycle there via 39km of jungle roads from the parish of Pacto. 

Explore Mashpi Reserve with an expert, local guide (Dušan Brinkhuizen)

At the onsite lab, resident biologist Mateo Reyes immerses guests in tales of new discoveries and reminds us why Mashpi’s work is vital – to safeguard the remaining 3% of the Andean Chocó.

Tandayapa Valley

There’s a reason why this special stretch of the Bella Vista Cloud Forest has been named an ‘avian paradise’: It welcomes over 300 bird species, including scores of endemics. Guided by ornithologists and naturalists, the Tandayapa Valley is a must for birdwatchers who are hoping to tick off iconic individuals (the toucan barbet) and lesser-known types (the giant antpitta). 

Hiking trails take you along streams and up-close to waterfalls, providing a vibrant and wild backdrop for bird photography. Along the way, there are 21 species of hummingbird to seek out, although several of those can be seen mobbing around the feeders and waterholes of the exclusive Tandayapa Bird Lodge. Top tip: Bring binoculars and a camera with a zoom lens.

Giant,Antpitta
Look out for birds including the giant antpitta (Shutterstock)
The Ecuadorian Hillstar is only found in Ecuador (Andres Vasquez)

The best time to visit Tandayapa is during the dry or fruiting season. The plate-billed mountain toucan with its distinct curved bill particularly tends to appear in the months of June and July, when it can feast on wild avocados. Meanwhile, the wet season is primetime for orchids (and pollinators) in this part of the Cloud Forest, with colourful whites, pinks and yellows sprouting among the trees.

Yanacocha Reserve

Known as one of the smallest private Cloud Forest reserves, this high altitude birders’ favourite – on the western slopes of Pichincha – is an easily-accessible two hours’ drive from Quito. Unlike some of the other protected areas, Yanacocha hikes can be guided or unguided – giving more freedom to day-trippers and independent travellers. 

Yanacocha
Yanacocha Reserve is popular with birdwatchers (Visit Quito)

On a clear day, the uphill trail (Yanacocha sits at 3,200m) will treat you to unhampered vistas over the active Guagua Pichincha volcano. Several rare, feathered breeds including the endangered black-breasted puffleg hummingbird, are among the 120 bird species found here.

Endangered black-breasted puffleg hummingbird
Lucky visitors may spot the endangered black-breasted puffleg hummingbird (Andres Vasquez)

The lower altitudes are laced with feeders, drawing in birds such as the great sapphirewing and sword-billed hummingbird – the stars of Yanacocha. Your best chance of seeing the elusive black-breasted puffleg is typically higher up the trail, alongside other beautiful but vulnerable varieties including the Andean guan, giant conebill and imperial snipe. While large fauna sightings are rare, Yanacocha also acts as a corridor for the western Andean coati, red brocket deer, Andean guanta and the oncilla.

Chakana-Hacienda Antisanilla Reserve

Playing an important role as a biological corridor between the Andean forests and the equatorial Cayambe Coca National Park, Chakana is a haven for roaming wildlife including the white-tailed deer and Andean spectacled bear – and it’s only a 30-minute drive from Quito. Within the reserve, the Mirador Chakana viewpoint overlooks a tapestry of regenerated land that has been dissected by a steep ravine. The open fields – which are a starkly different habitat to the intimacy of the Cloud Forest – mean there’s a much higher chance of spotting the megafauna. It’s also here that you might catch sight of one of the largest flying birds in the world, the Andean condor, as it circles the cliffs looking for its next catch.

Chakana-Hacienda Antisanilla Reserve is an important Andean condor nesting site (Visit Quito)

The reserve’s close proximity to the road means there’s a handful of traditional restaurants to try nearby. Family-run Tambo Condor welcomes you to try a satisfying Andean lunch with views over the Laguna Seca. The locro de papas (creamy potato soup) is a firm menu favourite, while the freshly caught and grilled trout is a must-try Ecuadorian staple. Complete the local experience with a yoghurt and guava dessert.

Quito

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