Finding secret sands in Croatia
Head to these five lesser-known beaches across Croatia
Impossibly clear waters, sheltered pebbly coves, long stretches of sand – Croatia’s Adriatic beaches are among the best in Europe. If you want to avoid the crowds and find a secluded spot to yourself, then follow Mary Novakovich’s guide to Croatia’s uncrowded coastal retreats…
1. Čikat Bay, Lošinj
Three-pronged Čikat Bay on the Kvarner Gulf island of Lošinj has a stretch of beach to suit almost everyone. Follow the tree-shaded footpath to Blatina for paddle boarding, beach bars and a family atmosphere. Carry on past two luxury hotels to find a series of little pebbly coves scented by pines, including one where dogs are welcome.
You’ll feel instantly soothed by the fragrance of wild herbs that covers most of the island, which is what drew the Austrian emperor Franz Joseph (and his mistress) here back in the 19th century. He was convinced Lošinj’s aromatic air was good for his health. It’s certainly invigorating.
2. Mlini Beach, Marinkovac, Pakleni Islands
If you want to get away from it all, take a taxi boat from Hvar Town to Marinkovac, one of the Pakleni Islands scattered just to the west. Ask the taxi to drop you off at Mlini Beach on the western side of this strangely shaped island, and feel yourself instantly relax under the pines to the sound of cicadas. Mlini’s shore is particularly rocky and pebbly, so be sure to bring some swimming shoes to make the most of it.
3. Saplunara Beach, Mljet
In a country better known for its pebble-strewn shores, Saplunara on the eastern side of Mljet island has not one but two sandy beaches right next to each other, under the pines. Rows of bamboo-shaded sun loungers line part of Velika Saplunara, the larger of the two, and both of them have rustic bars where you can refuel with grilled meats and cold drinks.
You’ll feel the hours pass in a delightful haze of relaxation as you watch sailboats drift in and out of Saplunara Bay. There’s even a third beach, the very secluded Limuni, about a ten-minute walk away.
4. Cape Kamenjak, Istria
Istria’s southernmost point is a wild and rugged place of dramatic cliffs and craggy coves, whose landscapes and biodiversity have rightly been given protected status. Part of the Kamenjak Nature Park, the cape is indented with rocky bays that are fabulous for snorkelling. Watch as locals dive from the cliffs, then join them afterwards at one of the quirky beach bars among the pines.
Some coves, including Debeljak and Školjić, are simpler to reach than others. But it’s very easy to rent kayaks from some of the bigger beaches, letting you explore every nook in this uncrowded peninsula.
5. Queen’s Beach, Nin
The northern Dalmatian town of Nin is magical enough, with its old town set on a tiny island, and that’s even before you consider Queen’s Beach. The longest stretch of sand in Croatia was said to be a favourite of the wife of the medieval king Tomislav, hence its name (Kraljičina Plaža in Croatian). Its shallow waters make it popular with families, and you can rent sun loungers and canoes.
What makes this place shoot up anyone’s list of top Croatian beaches, though, is the natural mud spa just behind it. Do as the locals do and slather yourself with its reputedly healing mud for the perfect natural treat.
Did you know?
According to the European Environment Agency, Croatia’s Adriatic Sea is officially the cleanest in Europe. The agency tested more than 22,000 beaches in the European Union and Croatia came out on top. So there’s even more reason to enjoy a refreshing dip in Croatia’s Adriatic waters.
