How to spend 24 hours in Muscat, Oman
This bustling capital combines modernisation with the romance of old Arabia…
A visit to Oman‘s capital Muscat can feel like you’re stepping back in time.
Banish all thoughts of the towering skyscrapers you might find elsewhere in the region – the tallest building in the capital is just 16 storeys – instead, the low-rise city allows the surrounding mountains to shine.
You can explore the bustling souk, go hiking in the mountains, watch a show at the Royal Opera House, head out to sea for dolphin watching… there’s something to suit every type of traveller.
Here’s the best way to spend 24 hours in Muscat.
What to know before you visit Oman
Until the 1970s, Muscat was a shadow of the city you see today. Hemmed in behind high walls, the tiny settlement housed the court from which Said bin Taimur oppressed the nation.
But in July 1970, his son Qaboos bin Said Al Said staged a coup, exiling Taimur to London. When Sultan Qaboos claimed the throne, poverty was rife and the country had only two schools – unthinkable now, in rich, modern, cosmopolitan Muscat.
The regeneration of the city has been big-scale and bigger budget, but hearteningly tasteful. High-rises are forbidden, and all new architecture is heavy on Middle Eastern motifs: think Arabian Nights in Italian marble.
Some original buildings remain – Old Muscat, where Taimur held court, has been preserved as a heritage area.
Oman is an absolute monarchy, but Sultan Qaboos created one of the region’s most stable countries. The country is now ruled by Sultan Haitham bin Tariq Al Said, his cousin, following the late Sultan Qaboos’ death in 2020. You’ll see his name and image on buildings city-wide.
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is Muscat’s finest architectural moment: prepare for a barrage of superlatives – biggest, tallest, priciest – as you gaze at its eight-tonne Swarovski chandelier and vast Iranian carpet, which took 400 weavers four years to make.
The city, sandwiched between the Arabian Sea and towering limestone cliffs, is ever-expanding along the coast. Muttrah – with its busy harbour, gleaming buildings and hectic souk – is its heart.
As the walls around Old Muscat slowly crumble to dust, new Muscat strides on.
How to spend 24 hours in Muscat
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (Sat to Thurs, 8am to 11am, free) is the only place where you’ll find tourist crowds, so arrive before 9am. Gawp at this feast of sacrosanct opulence and stroll through its immaculate gardens. Do cover up; women must wear headscarves.
Ditch the tourists and head to Muttrah fish market. It’s a busy, blood-spattered working butchery/market with friendly traders and photo opportunities aplenty.
Nearby, Bait al Zubair Museum (Sat to Thurs, 9.30am to 6.30pm) documents Oman’s national identity. Lunch Omani-style at Bait al Luban, one of few Muscat restaurants to serve traditional food.
The gold-trimmed Al Alam Palace – one of many residences built for Sultan Qaboos – is flanked by government buildings, but don’t be deterred: you can wander around. A ten-minute walk away, the old harbour bears historical graffiti by crews who’ve visited over the past 500 years.
Muttrah Corniche adjoins busy Port Sultan Qaboos, where the sultan’s superyacht, Al Said, might be spotted amid traditional dhows.
Across the road in Muttrah Souk (9am to 1pm, 4pm to 9pm; afternoon only on Fridays) you’ll find silver curios, coffee pots and khanjars (ceremonial knives). Haggle hard. For dinner, Bait al Bahr serves locally-caught seafood in a peaceful beach-side spot.
Where else to visit in Oman
Muscat’s main sights can be absorbed in a day, so move on. Ras al-Jinz, a turtle nesting site of global importance, is a three-and-a-half hour drive south of the city along a quiet coastal highway.
Stop halfway, on the cliffs near Bimmah, to see turtles swimming offshore. Stay at the reserve’s comfy hotel, which offers daily guided turtle-watching tours (4.30am and 9pm). There’s an informative on-site museum, too.
To the west of Muscat lie the Hajar mountains – take Highway 15 to Nizwa, a two-hour drive that skirts the range.
Overnight in Nizwa, a well-preserved historical city with a souk to rival Muttrah’s, then depart early to explore the mountains and cavernous wadis (riverbeds) of Jebel Shams – ‘Oman’s Grand Canyon’.
The mountain-side cabins of The View Oman teeter on a Western Hajar outcrop, offering thrilling vertiginous vistas.
A version of this article was originally published in 2021.
Essential travel information
Population: 5.46 million
Languages: Arabic (official); English, Hindi, Urdu
Time zone: GMT+4
International dialling code: +968
Visas: Visa-free for 14 days for UK nationals.
Currency: Omani rial (OMR), currently OMR0.5 to the UK£. ATMs are widely available.
Best viewpoint: On the road to Old Muscat – stop en route from the Grand Mosque to the Bait Al Zubair Museum for a glimpse of picturebook Arabia: a cluster of whitewash houses and the original port, overlooked by a fortress.
Health issues: No specific health concerns. Laws regarding alcohol, dress and conduct are strict – learn them.
Recommended guidebook: Oman (Bradt, 2013)
Climate: October to May sees 20-35°C temperatures and low humidity; there’s very occasional rainfall December- February. June to September sees highs of 45°C and high humidity.
Getting there & around
The main airport is Muscat International. Oman Air (omanair.com) flies UK to Muscat direct (seven to eight hours).
The best way to get around is by renting a car, or using taxis – rather than Uber, most people use Otaxi to book. If you flag a taxi down from the street, be aware that many do not have meters and you will need to haggle to agree a fare. Taxis at the rank outside the airport should have meters, but be sure to check.
Inter-city buses can be booked through Mwasalat (mwasalat.om).
Where to stay
High end: The opulent Al Husn Hotel is a spectacular 15-minute coastal drive from Muttrah.
It’s popular with Omanis, and a welcome retreat after a day exploring. It has frankincense-scented rooms, a tranquil pool and great restaurants.
Don’t miss talks by the turtle ranger: the beach is a nesting site.
Mid range: Crowne Plaza Muscat makes up for its business-like ambience with a great location: handy for Muttrah, and with a private beach too. The hotel restaurant, The Edge, is also a great spot for sundowners – although it should be noted that the hotel does not serve alcohol.
On a tighter budget? Beach Hotel has clean, spacious rooms.
The outdoor majlis-style seating area is a nice authentic touch, and the location (halfway between the airport and Muttrah) is quiet and convenient.
