CITIES
How to spend four days in AlUla
One of the world’s last remaining untouched kingdoms has opened its doors to the world and AlUla is Saudi's most fascinating jewel. Here's our ultimate four-day trip planner to AlUla...
Words by Demi Perera
The stillness and the total absence of urban noise catches you by surprise in Hegra. Tombs, as tall as skyscrapers, carved into sandstone rocks are scattered throughout a vast area of the desert. The colossal structures tell stories of those who moved through this landscape and built civilisations two thousand years ago.
Small details reveal beliefs and cultural aspects of the time: for example, five steps on either side at the top were believed to lead the dead to heaven. They also presented a fierce warning not to disturb the tombs. Vintage Land Rovers are a popular way to explore the mysteries of Hegra. A rawi, a local storyteller, accompanies you on your journey to bring the stories of the past alive. The best time to visit Hegra is either early in the morning or late in the afternoon as that’s when the sunlight is at its best, reflecting bronze rays against the rocks.
End the day with a stroll along Market Street in the Old Town. This is the main street that connects the Old Town to the nearby art district AlJadida. It’s the perfect place for picking up locally-produced, made-in-Alula labelled, souvenirs from independent artisans. Cafés, street food sellers and restaurants are open late and it’s a buzzy, lively place to spend an evening.
Today, explore AlUla’s oasis, its verdant, beating heart. Take a guided walk through the green, abundant oasis. This lush emerald garden of palm trees heavy with fruit, citrus orchards, organic vegetable farms and aromatic herb gardens predates the ancient tombs in the desert. The trails within the oasis have multiple entry points at the top, middle and end. They’re designed to take walkers across its magnificent scenery of working farms, grazing animals and many rest areas, shaded palm groves and places to admire its farm-to-fork philosophy with its vegetable patches and herb gardens.
Stop for a picnic at any of the many beauty spots. Enjoy a traditional Arabic picnic of fruit juice and sweet breads or try freshly brewed artisanal coffee and home-baked pastries, from the farm-to-table cafés, for a delicious alternative.
Get adventurous on the Via Ferrata and Giant Swing
Experience the wildest adrenaline rush at Via Ferrata and the Giant Swing. Both offer aerial challenges across rugged rock faces and canyons. Swing through the canyon in the Giant Swing, 85 metres above ground. Rest in the Canyon Hammock in Via Ferrata for a bird’s eye view of the rocky landscape.
Enjoy stargazing at night
Sharaan Nature Reserve is perhaps AlUla’s most ambitious project; rewilding a vast area of the desert to reintroduce endemic flora, fauna and animals that lived here. It was once home to a considerable Arabian leopard population.
Hiking is a great way to appreciate the immense environmental efforts being made in the region. Whether by day or night the Reserve offers nature lovers a close encounter with the natural habitat. A fairly easy hike takes you through acacia groves, deep ravines and vast canyons amongst red rock formations.
The six kilometre Acacia Trail cuts through ancient rocks covered in inscriptions, sandy mountains and rocky surfaces. A guided hike, at night, is a once-in-a-lifetime chance to experience the nomadic way of using the night sky to navigate the desert.
Brunch with friends
Tawlet Fayza
Habitas
On arrival at Habitas, a warm Arabian frankincense ritual invites guests to become a part of the Habitas family. Immerse yourself in this celestial experience in the desert. Entirely sustainable and connected villas span across the desert, an infinity pool of crystal clear water sits surrounded by sandstone formations sculpted by wind and rain. At night, the sky above Habitas fills with a million stars to guide you through the desert as you make your way around.
Banyan Tree
Banyan Tree is the latest luxury accommodation to arrive in the magnificent Ashar Valley. Sprawling villas, inspired by traditional nomadic desert living, stretch across the dunes with panoramic views of the surrounding canyon. Absolute stillness and tranquility hangs in the air all around. Start the day with yoga, a nutritious smoothie or a lavish massage in the Banyan Tree Spa or take a dip in the natural rock pool set between sandstone formations.
Other accommodation includes Cloud7 Residence, Shaden Resort, Sahary AlUla Resort, and various sites for camping.
Practical information
Visas
It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).
Getting there & around
Local customs
To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.
Weather
You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September.
Is English spoken in Saudi?
Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.
What is the currency of Saudi?
The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.
What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?
We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.
What’s the time difference in Saudi?
Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.
