CITIES
How to spend four days in Jeddah
Gateway to Saudi’s holiest sites and the Red Sea, Jeddah is a vision of palm-lined promenades and historic mosques, complete with its atmospheric old town Al Balad...
Words by Qin Xie
Day One
Start your adventure in Al Balad, Jeddah’s historic old town and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Here, mashrabiya (or roshan) bay windows, each hand-carved and often painted bright blue or green with intricate geometric patterns, protrude from coral stone walls that stretch up three or four storeys. Inside the maze of rooms would have housed a family and their business.
Many of these buildings are now museums and galleries exploring life in Saudi and the wider Arab world, like Bait Nassif, a home built for Omar Nasseef Efendi, governor of Jeddah in the late 19th century. Explore on foot with a guide to get the most of it. While here, check out Zawiya 97, an arts project that’s breathing life back into the leafy neighbourhood through workshops and events. A good place to start your exploring of the old town is at Bab Jadeed (or New Gate). From here you can walk up through the colourful streets, enjoying the numerous styles and shapes. The Bedouin Souq is an old, covered section where you’ll find local ladies selling a selection of products as they have done for many years. Heading from here down towards Bait Naseef you can pick up perfumes, spices, oud or other souvenirs. Dusk is a particularly special time as the call to prayer from lots of mosques bounces off the walls creating a mesmerising sound you will never forget.
Afterwards, head for the Al Faisaliyah district. Here, 2,500 years of Jeddah’s history is brought to life through an impressive collection of priceless artefacts at the Tayebat Museum.
Day Two
Jeddah’s sweeping corniche offers sublime views of the Red Sea and the kilometres of walkways lined with trees and flowers that run along the water’s edge are popular with locals and visitors alike.
With that in mind, a visit to Jeddah is not complete without spending some time near the water. The Red Sea is known for its marine life and Jeddah is lucky enough to have a reef on its doorstep. For those wanting to spend a day at the beach, there are numerous beach resorts north of the main city at Obhur. Many also have dive centres where you can hire all the kit you need to enjoy the underwater world. Alternatively you can lie back and soak up the sun with the sound of the waves gently lapping nearby.
For those who wish to get out on a boat, these are found in the marina in Obhur inlet. Most offer snorkelling and scuba diving out on one of the main reefs or wrecks off the coast. The coastguard is very particular about checking everyone’s details so make sure you take ID with you if you’re planning on going out on a boat.
Day Three
Drive an hour north east of the city and you’ll reach Moon Valley. This is an otherworldly landscape of huge rounded rocks that look like the surface of the moon (hence the name) where a staggering number of stunning rock formations, each hollowed out and left jagged by the wind, are scattered among low desert shrubs.
It’s an adventure and outdoor lover’s paradise with activities such as mountain biking and climbing, but the best way to see all of its beauty is on foot. It is easy to access but for those who like organised trips book an excursion with a local, reputable tour operator. They’ll organise a licensed hiking guide and transfers so you can just enjoy the experience.
If you get the chance, camping overnight at the remote location means there’s zero light pollution, making this the perfect spot for stargazing. Or if you’re here when the moon is out, the ethereal landscape will look even more beautiful under its soft light.
Day 4
Spend your last day in Jeddah like a local and head for the waterfront where you can walk the entire length of the city thanks to the pedestrian-friendly corniche. The palm-lined promenades, play areas and small parks make it extremely popular for families, especially after sunset when temperatures drop and a gentle breeze washes in cool air from the Red Sea. Here you will also find the iconic JEDDAH sign that everyone has their photo taken by. There are many cafés and restaurants along with bike hire shops where you can get your own ride to enjoy the extra wide cycle path that runs along the centre of the road.
A highlight is King Fahd’s Fountain, whose huge jet of water can be seen from all corners of the city, and the Al Rahmah Mosque, which is also known as the Floating Mosque for the way it extends over the water. Jeddah also has its own new marina where you can grab something to eat whilst watching the stunning yachts. For anyone staying in town longer, they also run sailing courses for all ages.
Before you head home, visit one of Jeddah’s traditional souks to pick up souvenirs and gifts. Souq Al Bawadi is the place to go for handmade craft items as well as traditional clothes like the abaya. Or there’s Souq Almena, the largest market in the city with bargain prices, along with Souq Shatie in the middle of the city where many locals shop.
What to eat and where
One of Saudi’s most popular dishes is often considered to be the one-pot kabsa, where rice is slowly cooked with chicken or lamb, vegetables and a subtle blend of spices until the grains are fluffy and have soaked up all of the flavours. But a similar dish called mandi, which is cooked with a different blend of spices, is more frequently available. Try both at Al Romansiah, a budget-friendly chain specialising in rice-based dishes with several locations around the city.
Mutabbaq is a favourite for snacking. Ingredients like meat, cheese, and even Nutella are folded into a thin pancake and pan-fried until crispy. Al Nakheel has a huge selection of flavours to choose from.
For dessert, it has to be the kunafa, the Queen of Arabic sweets. This richly indulgent treat, especially popular in Ramadan, is made from layering kataifi, a shredded pastry, with cheese and syrup before it’s finished with a sprinkling of crushed pistachios. Al Saddah is particularly well known for these.
Where to stay
New hotels are opening all the time in Jeddah, and some of the most luxurious options are along the waterfront. But for both luxury and location, the Ritz-Carlton Jeddah is unbeatable. The lavishly decorated rooms have a distinctly Arabian flair, and many overlook King Fahd’s Fountain. It’s this view that’s made the hotel’s afternoon tea offering hugely popular for outside guests. If you want a closer look at the fountain, the best view points are just a short walk away.
If you prefer staying in the heart of the city, try Assila, a Luxury Collection Hotel. This five-star property is within strolling distance of the Saudi Center for Fine Art and several shopping malls, which is ideal when you’re short on time. The rooms are bright and modern, and there are apartments for bigger families or those staying for longer. The highlight here is the dazzling rooftop pool offering fantastic city views.
For those wanting a more traditional twist try Shada Hotel in As Salamah district where styles of the kingdom are found throughout the building.
Practical information
Visas
It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).
Getting there & around
Local customs
To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.
Weather
You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September.
Is English spoken in Saudi?
Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.
What is the currency of Saudi?
The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.
What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?
We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.
What’s the time difference in Saudi?
Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.
