Get to know the real Umbria walking the Saint Francis Way     

Emerald bubblewrap hills. Amber-hued villages. Sun-dappled oak woodland. There’s something soft and delicate about the Italian countryside that begs for it to be explored, slowly and simply, on foot. Italy isn’t short of epic walking trails, but the 518km-long St Francis Way pilgrimage route is one that peers deep into the country’s rural soul and gastronomic gravitas, tracing the footsteps of Catholic friar St. Francis of Assisi as it weaves through medieval villages, olive groves and undulating countryside. Walking through this part of Italy is particularly charming during spring and autumn months when temperatures are milder and more comfortable for walkers.   

The walking tour experts at SloWays know this pilgrim path better than most and understand it’s not easy to tackle all in one go. Instead, they recommend taking on one of its most scenic stretches through the bucolic heart of Umbria, a 72km walk from Assisi to Spoleto. This section not only knits together verdant scenery but allows you to sample homegrown gastronomy, see fine architecture and learn more of St. Francis’ story. With SloWays, their readymade seven-day St. Francis Way, Assisi to Spoleto trip breaks up this portion of the path into more manageable daily chunks. The beauty of the trip is that this is a quiet trail that allows for spontaneous encounters and introspection. 

Your week of walking begins in the birthplace of St. Francis himself, giving you a great chance to get to know the man better and some of the heritage behind this great trail named after him. His namesake Basilica of St. Francis in Assisi (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is a major pilgrimage site for Catholics across the world, largely because it houses the crypt where he’s buried, while the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli and the Basilica di Santa Chiara are two other historic churches worth visiting. Then, ascend the medieval Rocca Maggiore fortress for a moment to pause in front of panoramic countryside views and – more importantly – a glimpse at the route to come. 

Assisi sits in the foothills of Monte Subasio (1,290m) and it’s this mountain in the Apennines you’ll ascend as you start your walk. On your way, you’ll have the chance to visit the sanctuary Eremo delle Carceri and the caves in which St. Francis and his peers used to meditate; you’ll likely feel as pensive as he did while inhaling Umbria’s air and walking along its paths. Wind through ancient oaks before treading downhill to end your day’s walk in the medieval town of Spello, resting among its stone houses and flower-filled balconies. A fine way to replenish your energy and reward your tastebuds is to tuck into a traditional Umbrian Rocciata, a sweet, flaky pastry whose slightly alcoholic aroma will put a spring in your step for your next day’s walk. 

Spello is a town well worth lingering in before you carry on along the St. Francis Way. Roman influences can be spied at city gate Porta Venere (one of two here) flanked by two guard towers, while the pink-and-white limestone Municipal Palace harbours captivatingly ornate rooms. But this is also a town that’s known for its fine artistry, something best evidenced in the Santa Maria Maggiore church with its Pinturicchio and Parmigianino frescoes. Today’s walk is a gentle 10km from start to finish. So, if you fancy more of a challenge, you have the option to cut short your morning exploration of Spello to take in a round-trip walk to the tiny honey-coloured village of Collepino, whose labyrinthine streets are a delight to get lost in. 

The walk from Spello to Foligno is reassuringly flat, allowing your focus to turn to the surrounding farmland and olive trees that populate this stretch, while jade-coloured mountains and valleys frame the horizon on the way to the bustling city of Foligno. Don’t miss the opportunity to savour the rich, earthy flavour of one of Umbria’s greatest natural jewels: the black truffle. Just as important as taking in Umbria’s natural splendour while walking is pausing to taste local delicacies along the way. 

This day’s walk doesn’t start directly from Foligno – instead you’ll take a short 10-minute drive to the hill-perched hamlet of Uppello. Its position on the crossroads of two leafy valleys – Menotre and Sassovivo – means its position serves up fine vistas of the rolling Umbrian countryside. It’s a good reminder of the rewarding views at stake as you set off, with a steep climb up to the Rocca of Scandolaro the first task. This 11th-century military fortress, built by the counts of Uppello, features a quadrangular tower to help guard against the surrounding regions.  

After admiring its vantage point, you’ll tread through ancient oak forests before reaching Trevi, a small village with a big reputation for olive oil. Olive oil has been produced here for generations – an 1,800-year-old olive tree here is considered the oldest in Umbria – so it would be rude not to sample a few tastings as you take a break among its mazy medieval alleys. Recharged, you’ll trace an ancient aqueduct to your endpoint in Bovara di Trevi. 

Leaving Bovara di Trevi this morning, you’ll pick up a portion of the Via Francescana, the same path St. Francis once walked himself – the original ‘Way’ if you will – all the way to the fortified village of Campello Alto. Here, the grand 14th-century Castello is the village’s focal point, both for the panoramic scenery of the Spoleto valleys you can spy but also for its restored medieval charm, while the nearby Temple of Clitunno and Romanesque San Lorenzo Chapel are other architectural highlights. Make sure to pause in the two convents – Pissignano and Campello – for their calming atmosphere, where you’ll be surrounded by the olive trees the area is famous for. 

Once you’ve finished exploring the cobblestone lanes of Campello Alto, it’s a short two-kilometre downhill stroll to the hamlet of Poreta, tracing trails flanked by olive groves, for a well-deserved rest ahead of the final day. 

Your final day of walking on this SloWays adventure starts by climbing through sun-dappled olive groves and thick forest, where you’ll reach the Santa Maria di Reggiano church. Dating back to the 12th or 13th century, inside you can take a breather while admiring frescoes and pictorial remains from the 14th and 15th centuries. Next, you’ll descend to the fortified village of Eggi, renowned for its churches, detailed frescoes and asparagus festival it hosts annually between late April and early May. 

After your time in Eggi, you’re on the home stretch to medieval Spoleto. It’s a fitting place to conclude your walk, where you can wander among this hill town’s ornate palaces and spy Roman influences in its amphitheatre and UNESCO-protected Basilica of San Salvatore. Spoleto’s strong cultural heart means, if you time your visit right, you can join in one of its many festivals like the artistic Festival dei Due Mondi (June-July) and the Spoleto Jazz Festival (October-November). A fine way to celebrate the end of your own mini Umbria pilgrimage. 

Why journey with SloWays

The crowds always go to the same places. SloWays help you take a left turn. This trail does not give you what you expected. It gives you what you didn’t know you were missing.   

SloWays takes care of everything; they’ve checked and hand-selected all the accommodations, walked the trail and they always include luggage transport in their navigation app with trip notes to make sure you are always on the right track. 24/7 support makes your journey truly worry-free.