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CULTURE & HERITAGE

Uncover the highlights of Hail

From its rich gastronomy and enigmatic capital to the legends and larks that await in its vast desert region, adventure is never far away in Saudi’s Hail province...

Words by Karl Cushing

It’s no surprise that international visitors have been coming in large numbers to Hail province since Saudi Arabia embraced international tourism.

One of the foremost centres of civilisation in the region for millennia, visitors can trace the north-western region’s rich legacy through ancient sites such as Jubbah while grand fortresses summon forth the fabled days when camel trains plied its caravan routes. Those with a passion for food will find themselves in excellent company, while the vast Al Nafud desert, which encompasses about a third of the entire province, serves as an adventure hub for active travellers looking for distinctive and genuine experiences alongside local residents. Here are just six of the many unmissable highlights that await.

Spy rock art at Jubbah

As an integral component of the broader UNESCO World Heritage site, which also includes Jabal Al-Manjot and Jabal Raat at Shuwaymis, Jubbah firmly establishes itself as a marvel. Its position as Saudi Arabia’s premier location for prehistoric petroglyphs, or rock art, combined with the region’s natural and enchanting splendour, solidifies its place as an essential attraction on any tour of Hail province. The rock carvings, which commonly depict hunting scenes and local wildlife such as camel, oryx and lions, cover a vast swathe of the Al Nafud desert, with Qattar Cave and Ghouwtah among the notable attractions. That said, many of the finest examples can be found etched into the rocky slopes of Jabal Umm Sinman. Despite being some 220 miles distant, visits to Jubbah naturally pair well with excursions to Shuwaymis whose petroglyphs, centred on Jabal Raat, pre-date those at Jubbah. Local guides help bring these Neolithic-era sites alive, recounting tales of the lives lived by the ancients at a time when bodies of standing water still graced the area, supporting a far richer variety of wildlife than today.

Go on an adventure in Al Nafud desert

Hail’s Al Nafud desert is undeniably a dynamic adventure playground, and a significant portion of the excitement revolves around the genuine desert camps offered by local tour operators. These camps offer the perfect opportunity to enjoy some of that renowned Bedouin hospitality while racking up some highly memorable experiences, from drinking Saudi coffee in the stunning desert sunsets and sunrises atop the dunes, to learning of the major constellations by night on guided astrology talks before sleeping beneath the stars. Amidst the captivating and ever-changing red sands of these desert dunes, there is a wide range of active activities to choose from. These include camel rides, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the caravan lifestyle while atop a ‘ship of the desert,’ as well as sandboarding, where you can skillfully navigate the sandy slopes and descend with the grace of a professional surfer. A complete journey in the desert wouldn’t be the same without an exhilarating 4X4 dune bashing adventure. This experience is like a thrilling desert rollercoaster ride that caters to both adrenaline enthusiasts and car aficionados. Highly skilled drivers navigate the dunes with gusto, taking you up, over, and around them for an adrenaline-pumping experience. Great times to experience the desert include springtime which coincides with Hail Season, a highlight of the region’s cultural calendar.

Soak up the legends of the Shammar Mountains

Saudi’s rocky outcrops are magnets for myths and legends and Hail province’s Shammar mountain range is no exception. An easy 30-minute drive from the city of Hail, its two primary peaks, Ajā and Salma, owe their names to the tragic, starry-eyed lovers who serve as the protagonists in a classical local love story, reminiscent of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. Having each passed away on one of the peaks, it’s said the mountains later moved to be closer to each other, a sign of the couple’s enduring love and attraction. Aja’s slopes are also home to the ruins of the palace of Hatim Al Tai, a famous poet whose noble character was celebrated in One Thousand and One Nights, the world-famous collection of tales that’s also known as The Arabian Nights. During October the annual Aja and Salma Festival takes place, celebrating the cultural heritage of the area.

Explore its castles and forts

Hail city’s prominence on lucrative ancient caravan trading routes made it a prized gem worth protecting and visitors today can explore the remains of three fortifications that played a key role in doing just that. While the roots of Al Qishlah only date back to the 1940s, visiting the two-storey mudbrick construction is a great way to pick up some titbits of local history and construction techniques while learning of its former roles, including serving as a prison and an army barracks. It’s also possible to visit the remains of Barzan Fortress, in the city’s Barzan neighbourhood, although it’s a shadow of its former grandeur, with only one tower remaining.

Ultimately, all this serves to whet your appetite for a tour of A’arif fortress. This hilltop sanctuary, a must-visit site dating back to the 17th century, features robust reddish mudbrick walls crowned with delicate white battlements reminiscent of doilies. Situated prominently atop the city, it’s impossible to overlook. Once inside, visitors can appreciate the fortified architectural marvel, immerse themselves in the grand historical intricacies, and explore intriguing exhibits of period artifacts, all while savouring the breathtaking panoramic views of the city. It has also been used to sight the moon during the holy month of Ramadan, with the Iftar cannon being fired from its walls to signal the breaking of the fast for the day.

Peruse Hail Souq

Long the beating heart of the city’s social and commercial scene, its roots harking back to the days of the ancient trading caravans, a visit to this enchanting mish-mash maze of mud-brick buildings, intertwined with narrow crowded alleyways and courtyards, is one of the province’s foremost immersive experiences. Touring Hail Souq offers tantalising glimpses of local life, little changed across the years, and it’s possible to catch demonstrations of cultural pursuits such as music or falconry. Plus, of course, it’s an excellent place to purchase some mementoes of your Saudi adventure, the ancient market’s enticing stalls heaving with everything from aromatic spices to ornate rugs and artisanal silverware.

Sample the local food

Hail’s diverse culinary scene is another distinctive attraction for visitors, offering meals at a local resident’s home to provide ideal opportunity to gain insight into the region’s longstanding culinary traditions and essential ingredients. Dates play a prominent role, as seen in the timeless combination of dates and barley in the dish known as hanini. Additionally, local spices like saffron and cardamom lend a unique flavour to traditional favourites like stuffed vine leaves, referred to as kabeba. Blends of Arabian spices are equally pivotal to hearty stews and soups laden with meat and vegetables such as margoog and jareesh, or spicy meat and rice dishes such as taman and al kabsa, while accompaniments such as the pancake-like marasiya can be accompanied by either sweet or savoury toppings. No meal is complete without a burst of sweetness, liberal doses of date syrup or honey further elevating simple Saudi staples such as maqshoosh and aseeda, alongside a freshly brewed Saudi coffee.

Practical information

Visas

It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

Getting there & around

To get to Dammam in the Eastern Province, you can take a direct domestic flight from either Riyadh (one hour) or Jeddah (two hours). You can also take a direct train from Riyadh to Dammam with the Saudi Railways Organisation, with the journey taking around four hours. When your reach Dammam, we’d recommend hiring a car for the ultimate in flexibility and ease when travelling around Dammam and the wider Eastern Province. It’s easy to reach Saudi from both the UK and USA. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.

Local customs

To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

Weather

You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September.

FAQ

Is English spoken in Saudi?

Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

What is the currency of Saudi?

The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?

We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

What’s the time difference in Saudi?

Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.