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NATURE & OUTDOORS

Discover the highlights of Tabuk

The futuristic city of NEOM might be grabbing the headlines, but it's nearby Tabuk that’s winning hearts as a place to experience authentic Arabian culture...

Words by Sam Bradley

Long ignored when compared to bigger Saudi metropolises such as Riyadh and Jeddah, Tabuk is now rapidly gaining popularity among visitors seeking its fascinating history and vibrant culture.

Its welcoming people, local culinary delicacies, and interesting traditional buildings and sites make it a memorable place to explore. When visiting Tabuk and embarking on day trips nearby, these are the top 10 unmissable highlights…

Explore Ottoman history at Tabuk Fortress

The main attraction in the city is Tabuk Fortress. Although thought to have originally been built as a basic structure as early as 3,500 BC, its verifiable origins as a fortress date back to 1559, when the Ottoman Caliph supported the building of forts along Hajj routes. It has recently been renovated into an informative museum, with the ground floor housing an open courtyard, a mosque and a well. The second floor comprises of rooms containing interesting artefacts from the Ottoman period, as well as stairs and towers that were used for security. The royal pools are behind the castle, as well as the cisterns that once captured water from an ancient spring.

Spy the Catalina Seaplane Wreckage

Why is an abandoned American WWII aircraft lying on a remote Saudi beach? The Catalina seaplane wreckage lies marooned near the sandy cape of Ras Al-Sheikh Hameed, just over a two-hour drive west from the city of Tabuk. The military plane (a PBY-5A Catalina) makes for memorable viewing, with an equally interesting history. In the 1950’s an American bought three of the amphibious planes, converting them into luxurious suites with the aim of flying his friends and family around the world. On the flight from Egypt to Iraq they noticed the beautiful coastline below them, deciding on the spur of the moment (and with no visas) to land for the night. The next day the Saudi coastguard, on high alert due to tensions in the area at that time, opened fire on the unidentified plane. Everyone on board returned safely to America, but the plane was damaged beyond repair – remaining there to this day.

Discover the ancient roots of Tayma

The province of Tabuk contains plenty of history, none older than the ancient town of Tayma. Believed to have been inhabited all the way back in the Bronze Age, the first written record comes in the form of cuneiform text from 8BC, when a caravan of traders from Tayma and Saba was captured by an Assyrian governor in what is modern-day Iraq. The town also boasts an Egyptian cartouche of Ramses III (dating back almost 3,000 years). Due to its oasis, the town was an important stop on many trading routes, and was also well known for producing dates and rock salt. While the Tayma Museum is well worth a visit, the town itself is an open-air exhibition. The ruins of the 15km city wall in the north of the town are part of one of the biggest ancient walls in the whole Arabian Peninsula, while the ruins of the Ancient Temple of Salm (once called the Red Palace, after the colour of the rock) are believed to be from the time of the last king of Babylon (King Nabonidus), who lived in Tayma for 10 years back in the 6BC.

See the Saudi Titanic

Nicknamed the Saudi Titanic, Georgios G was a British-made cargo ship which ran aground against the treacherous coral reefs lying along the top edge of the Gulf of Aqaba near the border with Jordan. The vessel was sailing from Greece to the port of Aqaba in Jordan, carrying mainly flour as well as other foodstuffs. Technicians came aboard to try and rescue the ship, but their efforts to restart the engine led to an ignition spark setting the whole vessel on fire, with everything except the iron parts being destroyed. The front third of the 71m ship still lies above water and can be clearly seen from the shore.

Go on a hike through Wadi Al Disah

Wadi Al Disah translates as ‘valley of the palm trees’, and this beautiful mountainous area contains unforgettable scenery and vistas. The valley floor is dotted with innumerable palm trees, while the surrounding sandstone cliffs and pillars are so otherworldly they simply must be explored. Located a mere two-hour drive south of the town of Tabuk, the area is perfect for hiking, picnics, rock climbing, camping and stargazing. Thankfully, Wadi Al Disah isn’t well known and therefore more peaceful and uncrowded. Streams trickle throughout the canyon, as tall reeds sway gently in the breeze and the light dances on the sandstone cliffs at sunset. Some of the pools the streams feed into can get very deep, especially in winter, so travelling in a 4×4 with an experienced guide is recommended.

Visit Hisma Desert

Another spectacular location to experience the great outdoors is the Hisma Desert, roughly an hour west of Tabuk. Over time the sand mountains have eroded into beautiful arches and shapes – and with a lot of the rocks also containing ancient Arabic inscriptions, providing researchers with interesting insights into the development of the language. A 4X4 is needed to properly explore the area, with highlights including camping and rally driving through the sand. One real highlight is walking through a massive tunnel with towering rocks on either side, which opened into a beautiful green space locally referred to as ‘the garden of Eden’.

Try Tabuk’s tasty local cuisine

Many of the restaurants in Tabuk serve local dishes, due to fewer tourists in the city as well as historically strong trading relationships with neighbours such as Egypt and Jordan. The best restaurant in the area is widely acknowledged to be Al-Qaryah Al Turathia, with traditional dining booths set up on the floor and the walls adorned with pictures of past kings. The menu reflects the culture, offering dishes such as chicken mandi (cooked with rice and spices) and kabsa (lamb or chicken with mixed rice on a communal platter). Tabuk’s location close to the Red Sea has resulted in the city also boasting amazing seafood restaurants, none better than Jandofly. On offer is an extensive list of seafood grills, fish, shrimp and lobster, as well as local dishes such as siyadiah (seasoned seafood). For those looking for something lighter, Don café has an enticing range of desserts and coffees, along with a trendy atmosphere.

Explore the tombs of Maghaer Shuaib

The tombs of Maghaer Shuaib are striking both for their historical significance as well as their artistically intricate designs. Dating back to the Nabataean civilization from the fourth century BC, these ancient inhabitants were skilled artisans. Similar to Hegra in AlUla and Petra in Jordan, burial chambers were elaborately carved into sandstone cliffs, featuring decorative images and structurally complex columns. Scholars of Abrahamic religions have learned this is where Moses lived for ten years after fleeing from Egypt and the tombs are currently closed while the NEOM initiative undertake archaeological investigations.

See history at the Hejaz Railway Station

Back in Tabuk, the Hejaz Railway Station is a UNESCO World Heritage site which provides a fascinating viewpoint of a difficult time in world history. Originally intended to connect Istanbul in Turkey to the Islamic Holy City of Mecca, progress on the railway line was thwarted by the outbreak of WWI, with the railway line only reaching Madinah (250 miles short of its destination). Wartime attacks on the line left it in ruins less than 20 years since building had begun, and today the station is a museum filled with photographs, manuscripts and even a model locomotive and freight car.

Take a day trip to Duba

The small coastal town of Duba punches well above its weight, offering stunning beaches and a modern corniche that offers fine views of turquoise-tinted coastline. Often used as a pitstop for those travelling by car as well as ships sailing past, the town has a lively atmosphere and a broad selection of hotels and restaurants. A 2.5-hour drive from Tabuk, day visitors can explore the historical mud-brick King Abdulaziz Fort, as well as enjoy deliciously fresh seafood meals from the nearby fish market or restaurants. After all, sitting on the beach enjoying a sunset and a hearty picnic provides an unforgettable finish to any trip.

Visit Jabal Al Lawz in the winter

Roughly a 2.5-hour drive from Tabuk lies Jabal Al Lawz, a picturesque mountain that receives snowfall almost every year. Visit during the winter months and you’ll be treated to the beautiful sight of a snow-dusted Saudi mountain; not something that every traveller will have the privilege of seeing.

Practical information

Visas

It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

Getting there & around

Al Ahsa is under three hours by car from Dammam in the Eastern Province. To get to Dammam, you can take a direct domestic flight from either Riyadh (one hour) or Jeddah (two hours). You can also take a direct train from Riyadh to Dammam with the Saudi Railways Organisation, with the journey taking around four hours. When you reach Dammam, we’d recommend hiring a car for the ultimate in flexibility and ease when travelling to Al Ahsa and visiting the wider Eastern Province. It’s easy to reach Saudi from both the UK and USA. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.

Local customs

To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

Weather

You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September.

FAQ

Is English spoken in Saudi?

Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

What is the currency of Saudi?

The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?

We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

What’s the time difference in Saudi?

Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.