Hiking highs in Croatia

Croatia’s coastline is backed for almost its entire length by a rugged chain of mountains where limestone scenery, sinuous ridges and craggy summits merge with dense forests pockmarked with karst dells. These mountains, criss-crossed by hiking trails and home to brown bears and golden eagles, offer Croatian hiking at its very best.

There are literally hundreds of day hikes amid Croatia’s rocky landscape, ranging from a short walk through the gorge of Velika Paklenica to the steep ascent up to Vošac on Biokovo, which takes you from sea level to over 1,400m. Other hikes include the surreal limestone formations of Samarske Stijene or the climb up Učka for a view taking in the entire Istrian peninsula. And then there’s Dinara, a sprawling mountain that peaks at 1,831m and encompasses vast areas of lush mountain pasture. It’s the roof of Croatia.

However, it’s Velebit, Croatia’s most extensive mountain range, that boasts some truly astonishing walks. Home to two national parks, the heights of this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve are traversed by the 100km Velebit Hiking Trail. And for something even more epic, lace up your boots for the Via Dinarica, whose White Trail (1,260km) takes in some of Croatia’s most scenic parts on its route between Slovenia and Albania.

Truth be told, most of Croatia’s islands have at least one unforgettable hike on offer, ranging from short walks over rocky peaks to clifftop trails and coastal paths.

On Brač, you can take a popular trail up Vidova Gora (780m) – the highest peak on any island in the Adriatic – for views of Zlatni Rat beach. Or head to the island of Krk to explore the moonscape above Baška, where trails meander giant cairns and old mrgari – dry-stone-walled sheep enclosures.

Vis also has some superb hikes. The trail up Mount Hum, whose little church overlooks the fishing village of Komiža, is particularly worthwhile. Lošinj, on the other hand, has an outstanding ridge walk across the Osoršćica, the highest mountain on the island. And over on Dugi Otok, you can follow a path atop sun-bleached cliffs that fall away in a steep drop to the sea below.

The north-east coast of Rab might just be the most underrated hike in Croatia. A trail runs all the way from Kamenjak to the crescent of sandy beach at Lopar. It’s a breathtaking stretch of coastline fringed by juniper bushes bent sideways by the Bura (Bora) wind and rocky slopes that fall steeply to the sloshing sea. You can also expect views over to the Velebit mountains on the mainland. It’s certainly a place worth stopping to catch your breath and drink in the panorama.

Gorski Kotar, Croatia’s greenest region, is 80% ancient forest, stretching in a great arc above the head of the Kvarner Gulf. It understandably entices its share of hikers.

At the heart of these extensive forests is Risnjak National Park. Follow the trail up from the village of Crni Lug, crossing some beautiful beech forest, to the Schlosser mountain hut and Veliki Risnjak peak. Or you can hike down to the source of the River Kupa, which emerges into a turquoise-coloured lake. Also in Gorski Kotar is Vražji Prolaz (the Devil’s Passage), a dramatic canyon through which a fantastic hike descends by way of a series of walkways and bridges.

Lastly, Medvednica Nature Park begins in the northern suburbs of Zagreb, proving that you don’t have to go far to be surrounded by forest in Croatia. Hike up to the summit of Sljeme – the highest point in the Medvednica range – for the perfect weekend stroll. And don’t forget to grab an obligatory hearty bowl of grah (beans) at a mountain hut.