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PRATICAL GUIDE

How I found Saudi as a solo female traveller

With remote mountain trails, traditional seafood dishes and constant investment in the restoration of heritage sites, Yanbu is a place for authentic immersion in Saudi culture...

Words by Emma Thomson | Images by William Gray

In 2016, Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman launched Vision 2030, an ambitious and wide-ranging plan for economic and social reform.

Part of those changes included a series of reforms to empower women and they are now allowed to drive, attend concerts and other public gatherings, travel and live independently. Of most significance to female travellers, are new laws which allow women to stay in hotels without a male guardian’s presence, unmarried men and women to share a room without proof of a marriage license, the desegregation of restaurants and the fact the hijab and abaya are no longer mandatory. These may seem small graces, but nonetheless are signs of gradual and consistent change, which both improve the lives of Saudi women and make it a freer, less morally conflicting destination for female travellers to explore.

What were your expectations before visiting Saudi as a solo female traveller?

I expected the dress codes to be stricter than, say, Iran, which I have visited twice, but it was the opposite. I also expected to get a few lingering stares for not wearing a headscarf -– despite the relaxation of laws – but they never came. The visa application, while expensive, was also incredibly easy and fast.

What was your first impression of Saudi when you arrived?

The energy and enthusiasm among Saudi’s younger generation for the country’s fast-paced modernisation and emancipation from once far-stricter sharia laws is palpable. From the get-go, almost everyone I met was warm and engaged and I felt safe and respected as I wandered solo around the souk – even at night. A fellow female traveller I met, named Rosanne Delafontaine from France, told me: “I expected everything to be more separated between men and women, but there’s so much community.”

Women were highly visible in the workforce and while many still wear the traditional black abaya and niqab, I got the sense that abayas of different colours and design are also being worn to reflect a woman’s personal taste and personality.

What did you enjoy most about your trip to Saudi?

Despite the country’s breakneck race towards modernisation, there are beautiful buildings and historical districts, such as Al-Balad in Jeddah, that really allow you to time travel back to the era when camel caravans passed through the country following ancient trade routes built on the exchange of spices, silk, incense and coffee from across Asia. I found Jeddah particularly interesting with its history as a sea port and the entry point for pilgrims heading to Mecca, making it more multicultural to the rest of the country.

I also particularly relished the private conversations I had with female artists and artisans and hearing how crucial and powerful these mediums are in allowing them to express themselves in unique ways.

Did anything surprise you?

I had the pleasure of spending a number of days with Abir Abusulayman, Saudi’s first female tour guide. When I asked her what life was really like for women, she said: “When we talk about women empowerment, it’s there. My mother worked, my grandmother too – we’ve always worked, what’s changed is the domains. There’s been equal pay for a long time and we’ve already overtaken the 30 per cent of women in the workplace promised in the Vision 2030 – it’s now at 35 percent. The media puts us in a certain box, perhaps because, until recently, they couldn’t visit to see the truth. But women have always been the decision makers in the family. They control the house budget, choose which schools their kids will attend and where the family will go on holiday. In the past, leaders would commonly ask their sisters for advice. King Abdulaziz bin Abdul Rahman Al Saud – our nation’s founder – would always say ‘I give you my word – I am the brother of Noura’ (his sister), as proof of his honour.”

Did you face any barriers when travelling in Saudi as a woman?

Quite the opposite. We enjoyed the unique privilege of being able to spend time in the company of both men and women. Just be sure to avoid any physical contact with men, such as placing a hand on the shoulder, or an inadvertent touch to the hand in a gesture of thanks.

Also, unlike Iran – which requires British, American and Canadian travellers be part of a tour to travel around the country – Saudi is open to independent exploration and, thanks to new laws, women can stay in hotels without a male guardian’s presence or letter of permission. It’s also safe and permissible to book and travel in Uber taxis alone.

What should other female travellers know before planning a trip to Saudi?

While wearing a hijab and abaya is no longer law, you’re still required to dress modestly and cover knees and shoulders, so it’s worth brushing up on what to wear and you’ll still need to wear headscarf when visiting mosques. The only places that remain formally segregated are mosques during prayer time, but most restaurants, for example, are now mixed.

What would you recommend solo female travellers see and do when visiting Saudi?

Get out into the desert for soul-shifting periods of silence, take a cooking class to learn Saudi specialities at AlUla, and visit the archaeological site of the Tomb of Eve – the grandmother of humanity – in Jeddah. While you’re in this historic city, I’d particularly recommend spending a few days exploring the UNESCO World Heritage site of Al-Balad, the Old Town of Jeddah. It boasts a dynamic arts and crafts scene and offers great opportunities to spend time with locals. Consult Instagram for the calendar of free music nights and craft workshops, many of them in English, hosted at the grand 1920 Al-Sharbatly mansion (@beitalsharbatly). Turn up at the Jeddah Academy of Fine Arts on Thursday or Saturday, when its founder, Hisham Ahmad Binjabi, offers free painting classes to locals as well as tourists. You could also contact fashion designer Reem Abdulghani (@reemabdulghani_official), who has a studio in the Zawiya 97 arts district, for an embroidery class.

Practical information

Visas

It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

Getting there & around

With plenty of direct flight links from the UK to Saudi, it’s really easy to get to the country. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.

Local customs

To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

Weather

You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit the country is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime, depending on where in the country you are, and rarely exceed 30°C. The summer months between June and September can get extremely hot, with temperatures often north of 40°C. But, do as the locals do and head out after dusk when it’s much cooler!

FAQ

Is English spoken in Saudi?

Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

What is the currency of Saudi?

The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?

We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

What’s the time difference in Saudi?

Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.