How to sip your way through Asturias

Sitting between the Cantabrian Sea and the Cantabrian Mountains in northern Spain, Asturias is a deeply historical and culturally significant part of the country. The region was its own kingdom long before the Spain that we know existed, and many of the traditions and ways of life of old Asturias are still present.

Besides the diverse landscapes of the coast and verdant peaks, Asturias also has a rich food and drink culture, from its lauded guild of traditional female cooks – the guisanderas – to its fertile apple orchards. And no trip to this autonomous region is complete without sipping its world-famous sidra (cider).

Asturians have been drinking cider since time immemorial. There are some records that point to it being consumed here in the first century BC. It’s been popular with inhabitants of the area ever since, from the Romans to modern-day Asturians.

Traditionally, cider was a pauper’s drink, as it was cheaper than wine. This suited the workers of the region’s pastoral sheep farms, coal mines and steel plants.

It was during the 19th-century Industrial Revolution that chigres – casual, informal drinking taverns – started popping up, serving cider to willing crowds of thirsty workers.

With the rise of living standards in the 20th century and an influx of people with newfound wealth, particularly those returning from the Americas, cider began to claim an important social status as a beverage drunk by all. Production started to focus on quality as well as quantity, and its enjoyment became an intrinsic part of everyday life, cementing itself as something distinctly Asturian.

Today, Asturias produces 80% of all cider made in Spain, churning out more than 40 million bottles a year. It’s estimated that the average Asturian consumes 60 litres of it annually, and the drink plays a starring role in any social event you’ll stumble across.

For good cider, you need good apples, and Asturias can claim 500 varieties, including 76 specific to the region, ranging from tart, acidic and tannic fruits to the delightfully sweet and aromatic varieties. When ripe in autumn, the best apples are harvested, pressed, fermented and matured by expert llagareros (cider makers), who continually test the cider until it’s ready to be bottled, sold and enjoyed.

It’s for this reason that it was given protected status by the EU in 2003, meaning that if a product says it’s Asturian cider, it must be made in a particular way in Asturias with Asturian apples. And with cider culture so integral to the local society, UNESCO even recognised it as having Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2024. It continues to be a reminder of the strong link that Asturians have to their abundant natural surroundings.

Serving cider in Asturias is part art, part skill and part theatre. The golden nectar is not simply poured into a glass; the server, or escanciador (cider pourer), holds the bottle at arm’s length above their head and positions a pint glass in their other hand, just below waist height. They then pour so that the cider hits below the rim of the glass to create a natural fizz. Once they have a culete, or culín – about two fingers’ worth – they stop pouring, and then the thirsty patrons down this shot of cider in one.

You can witness escanciadores in bars, restaurants and cider houses all over Asturias; there are even annual televised competitions to find the best cider pourer. Pay a visit to traditional sidrerías (cider houses) for cider poured the right way. You’ can also pick up some award-winning Asturian Cabrales cheese in delis serving cider too.

It’s well worth visiting pomaradas (orchards), such as Pomarada de José Antonio Lebredo in Coaña, to see where cider comes from. You can also stop at the llagares (cider presses) to learn how the apples go from tree to table. Try the family-run Casa Trabanco in Gijón for an immersive tour and tasting, or head to the Asturias Cider Museum in Nava to learn about the history of this storied drink.

Visiting in June? Don’t miss the popular cider festival in La Gascona, a street in Oviedo known as ‘Cider Boulevard’ thanks to its numerous bars. As part of the festivities, you can try many different ciders and hear local folk groups perform. For a great alternative, the Natural Cider Festival takes place on Poniente Beach in Gijón each August.