How to spend a long weekend in Istria
From Roman stones to truffle forests and spectacular sunsets, here’s how to spend three days on this idyllic Croatian peninsula
Photography (Istria Tourism Board)
Words by Rudolf Abraham
Istria is everything you might fall in love with about Croatia, rolled into one. A wedge of land at the head of the Adriatic, the Istria region is home to outstanding Roman and Byzantine remains, medieval hill towns, magical sunsets and a gorgeous coastline. It’s also Croatia’s greatest foodie hotspot, with plenty of delicious seasonal produce from the land as well as the sea, and it produces some of Croatia’s top wines, along with some of the best olive oils in the world. With pretty much anywhere in Istria easily reachable in under an hour, it’s perfect for a long weekend of culture, nature, food and wine.
Day One: Pula, Brijuni National Park and olive oil tasting in Brist
Photography (Istria Tourism Board)
First stop, Pula. Down towards the southern tip of Istria, Pula is Istria’s largest city – a vibrant place set on the shore of a deep bay, with a long and rich history stretching back well over two millenia. Pula is home to one of the most famous cultural sites anywhere in Croatia – something this beautiful country on the Adriatic certainly has absolutely no shortage of: its huge Roman amphitheatre. Known locally as the Arena, it was completed in the first century AD, and is one of the largest and best preserved Roman amphitheatres anywhere in the world. It’s here that the annual Pula Film Festival is held, and it also functions as a supremely atmospheric concert venue, hosting performances which over the years have included the likes of Andrea Bocelli, Duran Duran and Arctic Monkeys.
While you’re in Pula, don’t miss the Roman Temple of Augustus, built in the early first century AD and now home to a collection of Roman-era sculpture – or the nearby floor mosaics in a former Roman villa, beautifully preserved and including a portrayal of the punishment of Dirce (Queen of Thebes in ancient Greek mythology). There’s also a Roman triumphal arch, the so-called Arch of Sergii, from the first century BC. Pula has a particularly good open market, bursting at the seams with wonderfully fresh local produce – and its main square (originally the Roman forum) excels in that timeless art of whiling away some spare time over an impeccably made espresso.
Just a short boat trip from the nearby fishing village of Fažana lie the Brijuni Islands, which form one of Croatia’s eight national parks. The archipelago encompasses some fourteen islands, the largest of which is Veliki Brijuni – known for its luxurious villas, crystal-clear waters, dinosaur footprints, safari park and archaeological sites, including the extensive Roman-Byzantine Kastrum at Dobrika Bay and the Roman Villa Rustica at Verige Bay.
Finally, head inland to the small town of Vodnjan to visit the award-winning Brist Olive Oils. Istria produces some of the finest olive oils in the world, from international varieties such as Leccino and Frantoio to local Istrian varietals including Bjelica, Rosulja and Buža – and no visit to Istria is complete without a deep-dive into this intensely flavoured, liquid gold which has formed the backbone of its cuisine for some two millennia. A tour and tasting at Brist, with its beautifully situated olive groves overlooking the Brijuni Islands, is a perfect way to start.
Day Two: Motovun and truffle hunting in Mirna Valley
If there’s one thing which defines Istrian gastronomy more than any other, it’s truffles. Both black (winter) and white truffles are found here, and are a prominent feature on menus – sliced over steaks or seafood, an ingredient in delicious local cheeses, and infusing exquisite pasta sauces. The epicentre of truffles hereabouts is the Mirna Valley, which runs across the northern part of inland Istria. Standing above the Mirna Valley, encircled by vineyards and crowned by old walls and a crenellated bell tower, is the incomparably delightful hill town of Motovun. Wander up through its cobbled, pedestrianised streets to emerge in a broad square, where you can enjoy lunch in the shade of ancient chestnut trees, and follow the old walls for stunning views of the Mirna Valley.
Not far along the Mirna Valley from Motovun, Buzet is another hill town which enjoys a particularly close association with truffles – its annual truffle festival in November is the largest in the region. The most authentic experience when it comes to truffles in Istria – aside from eating them, of course – is to join a truffle hunt. Karlić Tartufi in the village of Paladini near Buzet offer truffle hunts with trained dogs in the surrounding oak forests, which are among the richest truffle-hunting grounds in Istria – ‘our forests of gold’, as owner Radmila Karlić describes them.
After unearthing a few prize truffles wherever the dogs scent them out, settle down for dinner at one of the many excellent local restaurants and taverns here in the green heart of Istria – perhaps Konoba Mondo, Konoba Fakin or Pod Voltom in Motovun, or the excellent Konoba Dolina in Livade – and enjoy delicious dishes prepared with fresh truffles, accompanied by fabulous local wines. A failsafe sign of a good restaurant to try local truffles? Check out how many Italian number plates are parked outside – Italians frequently pop over the border to enjoy the excellent and very good value truffles here in central Istria.
Istria is one of Croatia’s finest wine producing areas, known in particular for its Malvazija, a deliciously crisp and fruity white, made from Istria’s signature grape. And you’ll be pleased to know, some of Istria’s most highly awarded vineyards lie in the central and northwestern parts of the peninsula – Fakin just outside Motovun, Dešković near Grožnjan, Kozlović near Buje and Cattunar near Brtonigla, to name just a few.
Day Three: Rovinj and UNESCO-listed culture in Poreč
The jewel on the Istrian coast – and perhaps the most romantic spot on the entire Croatian Adriatic – is Rovinj. Perched on a small peninsula, the houses of Rovinj’s beautifully atmosphere-laden old town cascade down to the water’s edge, in a succession of pastel-coloured façades. Narrow, cobbled streets climb past cafés, small galleries and sleepy piazzas to the Church of St Euphemia, with its soaring bell tower – the tallest in Istria, closely modelled on that of St Mark’s in Venice. The views from the top are absolutely breathtaking.
The insider tip for some of the most spectacular sunsets in Croatia? Stroll around the waterfront of this most Italianate of Croatian cities towards the superb Maistra Grand Park Hotel Rovinj, from where you can enjoy a view (from a waterside table at one of several restaurants if you want) of the sun dipping into the Adriatic, beyond the silhouetted profile of the old town and a cluster of small fishing boats. You can discover more about Rovinj’s traditional type of wooden fishing boat, the batana, at the Batana Eco-Museum – or, join a boat trip on a batana, where you will be rowed out by its owner alongside the old town to hear stories about Rovinj and its history and legends.
Rovinj is also one of Istria’s great culinary hotspots, with no fewer than three Michelin-starred restaurants – namely Monte at Hotel Lone, plus Cap Aureo and the two-starred Agli Amici, both at Maistra Grand Park Hotel Rovinj. Dining at Agli Amici is a sublime experience, with two menus – one focusing on the sea, the other on the land – where traditional, seasonal Istrian ingredients from small-scale local producers, farmers and fishermen undergo something akin to alchemy in the hands of chef Emanuele Scarello and deputy chef Simone De Lucca. Think Istrian langoustine with squash, orange and Jerusalem artichoke; aubergine ravioli with horseradish, black truffle and hazelnuts; or local Boškarin beef with mustard, almond and figs. Plus there are a whole slew of other outstanding places to eat in Rovinj, including the legendary seafood restaurant Giannino – don’t miss the raw seafood selection, and the brodetto alla Rovignese. And for a wine tasting, visit the multi award-winning Villa Dobravac Winery on the edge of town.
Finally, for another heady dose of culture, head for Poreč, just a 45 minute drive from Rovinj, with its Euphrasian Basilica which is home to UNESCO-listed Byzantine mosaics, dating from the sixth century and on a par with those in Ravenna.
