5 traditional South Korean dishes you have to try

Around 70% of South Korea is covered in mountainous terrain. Few areas are suitable for large-scale farming, with the north and west mostly smothered in high peaks. The lowlands and river valleys of the south-east naturally became the heart of rice production, while the centre and east were developed for field crops and the cultivation of wild vegetables. This has all had a huge effect on Korean cooking.

Before the development of modern infrastructure, transportation and communication were difficult between regions. As a result, each area of Korea developed its own unique cuisine, based on the local food supply. Even today, despite the ease of modern transportation, the unique food cultures and traditional dishes of each region remain.

Read next: 12 culture-filled stays in South Korea

Broadly speaking: in areas where temperatures run high (the south), food spoils more easily, so is more heavily salted or strongly seasoned; in the mountainous north, where the temperature is low, it tends to be milder; and all along the coast, you’ll find many different varieties of seafood dishes.

For example, the southern cuisine of Jeolla-do is noted for its strong seasoning and the use of fermented foods. Look out there for dishes such as the original Jeonju bibimbap (mixed rice), served in traditional brass bowls.

Alternatively, northern Seoul is where dishes and ingredients from across Korea collide. The food culture of the royal court developed in the capital, and although locals now prefer a large number of smaller dishes over banquets, these are still characterised by the milder flavours of the north.

Bibimbap is Korea’s most iconic rice dish. The traditional Jeonju style is beloved for its formal take on the classic dish, with rice made using ox-bone broth and finished with soybean sprouts topped with namul (seasoned vegetables), mung bean jelly, yukhwe (for example, a beef tartate), a raw egg yolk and stir-fried gochujang (red chilli paste). But styles vary around the country: in Andong, they swap out the gochujang for soy sauce, and in coastal Tongyeong it’s made with seasonal sea vegetables and seaweed, then washed down with a soup of tofu and clams.

Where: To try the Jeonju-style version of bibimbap, head to specialists Sungmidang (3 Jungang-dong) or Hanguk-Jip (119 Eojin-gil) in its home city.

Bulgogi refers to dishes of thinly sliced meat (often beef) marinated in various seasonings and grilled over an open fire. There are three famous methods: the Seoul style pours beef broth onto the grilled meat for a simmered effect; Gwangyang-style minimises seasoning, marinating the meat prior to grilling; and the Eonyang style grills the sliced marinated beef in chunkier clumps over charcoal.

Where: Seoul’s Woo Lae Oak (62-29 Changgyeonggung-ro) is known for its bulgogi, which is grilled tableside. Also try Hanilkwan, which originated in Seoul and has branches in the capital and Incheon.

Read next: Plot your perfect route around South Korea

What sets Korean dumplings apart is that traditional versions almost always use ground tofu and kimchi as a filling; the modern take also now includes glass noodles. However, there are many varieties found around the country, including the beyongsi mandu, the royal court’s traditional half-moon shape, made without any folds; kyu-a-sang mandu, which are formed like sea cucumbers; and the pyeonsu mandu, a square summer dumpling.

Where: Seoul’s Jaha Son Mandu (12 Baekseokdong-gil) uses recipes passed down through the owner’s family.

In Korea, when referring to ‘chicken’, one thinks of Korean fried chicken. This deep-fried (twigim) dish is now ubiquitous across the country, and while many styles exist, it is known for its crispy texture and sauces made from gochujang and soy sauce.

Where: You’re never far from a branch of bb.q Chicken in Korea; the brand even opened its own ‘chicken university’ in 2000.

Read next: 5 must-try royal dishes in South Korea

These brothy stews are characterised by strong seasonings, typically falling under the category of doenjang (seasoned with fermented soybean paste), gochujang (seasoned with red chilli paste) or clear jjigae. Traditionally, the proper way to serve this stew was in individual servings as a banchan (side dish); these days, jjigae is usually a communal dish that is to be shared.

Where: In Seoul, head to Eunjujeong (32 Changgyeonggung-ro 8-gil) for the kimchi version, or Doma (33 Yanghwa-ro 16-gil) for doenjang jjigae.

This extract was taken from The Korean Cookbook (Phaidon; £39.95) by acclaimed Atomix chef Junghyun ‘JP’ Park and culinary researcher, chef and writer Jungyoon Choi. It celebrates traditional regional dishes and everyday food found in home kitchens from Seoul to Jeju Island. It collects together 350 recipes, including pantry staples, stews and hotpots. Out now.