India's Golden Triangle
If Delhi is India’s political and cultural nucleus, then Jaipur is its royal stronghold and Agra is a rogue symbol of love. Together they offer visitors a glimpse of India through the ages
The Golden Triangle in India is the route between Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. It acts as a captivating time capsule, transporting travellers to pivotal moments in India’s storied past. The allure of this trifecta of cities lies not only in the architectural beauty and historical landmarks that dot the landscape, but also in the sense of antiquity that fills the air, whispering tales of courage, love and resilience.
The starting point of the Golden Triangle is Delhi, a city steeped in history and as ancient as the legendary Indian epic Mahabharata. Once known as Indraprastha, it served as the illustrious capital of the legendary Pandavas and witnessed political upheavals across centuries, transitioning from the rule of Rajputs, Khiljis and Tughlaqs to the era of the Mughals, and later the British, who relocated their capital from Calcutta (Kolkata) to Delhi in 1911, thereby making it the centre of colonial governance. Each dynasty left its mark, shaping Delhi into what it is today: a blend of historical remnants and modern life.
Next on the circuit is Agra, nestled on the banks of the Yamuna River. This ancient city reached its pinnacle under Mughal rule, when it blossomed into a vibrant hub of art, architecture and commerce during the 16th-century reign of Akbar, the third Mughal emperor. By then it was known as Akbarabad, and it gave birth to timeless marvels like Agra Fort, and then later the Taj Mahal.
A woman sits on the banks of Man Sagar Lake, a man-made reservoir first created on the fringes of Jaipur around the start of the 17th century. The lake is home to the Jal Mahal (Water Palace), which was originally conceived as a royal hunting lodge (George Kipouros)
A woman sits on the banks of Man Sagar Lake, a man-made reservoir first created on the fringes of Jaipur around the start of the 17th century. The lake is home to the Jal Mahal (Water Palace), which was originally conceived as a royal hunting lodge (George Kipouros)
Nahargarh Fort is said to have been named after a dead prince whose spirit disrupted its construction in 1734 (Alamy)
Nahargarh Fort is said to have been named after a dead prince whose spirit disrupted its construction in 1734 (Alamy)
The honorary guard at the City Palace in Jaipur perform their duties with panache (George Kipouros)
The honorary guard at the City Palace in Jaipur perform their duties with panache (George Kipouros)
Following India’s independence in 1947, Agra seamlessly integrated into the newly formed state of Uttar Pradesh. Its enduring charm, as both a cultural gem and a treasure trove of architectural wonders, continues to enchant audiences worldwide.
Jaipur is the third corner of India’s Golden Triangle. Nestled in the dry terrain of Rajasthan in the north-western region of India, the city’s genesis can be traced back to 1727, when Rajput king Sawai Jai Singh II made the strategic decision to relocate the capital from the neighbouring city of Amer (Amber). This move wasn’t merely a shift in location; it was a response to pressing concerns regarding water scarcity and security. Jai Singh meticulously planned the city’s layout based on the principles of Vastu Shastra (a series of ancient Hindu architectural treatises) and employed a grid plan, giving rise to a city marked by structured streets, bustling markets and majestic palaces. This thoughtful fusion of tradition and modernity eventually led to Jaipur’s inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019.
Adding to the allure of the Golden Triangle as a captivating circuit for travellers is its exceptional accessibility. The destinations are linked by well-maintained roads and superfast trains. And if you are planning a trip, we’d recommend a visit between October and March, when daytime temperatures can sink down into the 20s (ºC).
Did you know?
The term ‘Golden Triangle’ comes partly from the near-equilateral triangle that is formed by the three cities (Delhi, Agra and Jaipur) on a map, with each roughly being 230km apart. The cities also serve as bastions of Indian history and culture, hence earning them the epithet ‘golden’.
Delhi
India’s inimitable capital
228.61° N, 77.23° E.
With a history that spans over five millennia, Delhi is not just a city; it is a living chronicle of India’s rich and storied past. As you navigate through its labyrinthine streets, you can’t help but be mesmerised by the majestic relics that dot the landscape like precious jewels.
To immerse yourself in the historical essence of Delhi, visit Shahjahanabad, or Old Delhi. Bustling with crowds and pulsating with commerce, this part of the city is one of India’s most evocative and significant historic quarters. Dominating the skyline here is the 17th-century Lal Qila, a masterpiece commissioned by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. This iconic structure, also known as the Red Fort, gets its name from the blushing sandstone used in its construction.
The intricately carved tomb of Iltutmish (Alamy)
The intricately carved tomb of Iltutmish (Alamy)
A symbol of Mughal rule, the fort boasts airy corridors that once teemed with traders. You can also see grand halls created for public and private audiences, such as the Diwan-i-Khas and Diwan-i-Am, as well as domed and arched marble apartments cooled by the flow of a water channel known as the Nahr-i-Bihisht (Stream of Paradise).
Across the road from the Red Fort, at one end of Chandi Chowk – a market area known for street food such as parathas (fried flatbreads) and dahi bhalla (deep-fried lentil balls) – lies another magnificent jewel of Mughal heritage: the Jama Masjid. This marble and red-sandstone structure is the final masterpiece attributed to the illustrious reign of Shah Jahan (of Taj Mahal fame). It commands attention with its onion-shaped domes, intricately designed minarets, calligraphic inscriptions adorning its walls and vast courtyard with room for 25,000 worshippers. To capture sweeping vistas of the medieval sprawl of Old Delhi, ascend the southern minaret.
Following the heady exploration of Old Delhi, head south of the old quarter to pay a visit to New Delhi, which bears all the marks of colonial influence. Here the white, columned arcades of Connaught Place are well worth a wander. These are dotted with international branded stores, trendy bars, vintage cinemas and iconic restaurants established in the post-Indian Independence era. Another essential stop is India Gate, a grand stone arch designed by Edwin Lutyens and completed in 1931. Akin to Paris’ Arc de Triomphe, it is dedicated to the fallen Indian soldiers, specifically those who served in the First World War.
For a break from the urban chaos, discover the tranquil gardens of the Raj Ghat memorial, which commemorates the site where Mahatma Gandhi was laid to rest after he was assassinated in 1948. Next to the black marble platform where he was cremated, there is a flame that never goes out, symbolising an enduring legacy that shines ceaselessly, day and night.
Amidst it all, Delhi’s museums stand as guardians of India’s cultural heritage, preserving and showcasing the treasures of the past for future generations to cherish and admire. Stop by the Teen Murti Bhavan, which was once the home of India’s first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, and is now a museum offering a glimpse into both his life and India’s struggle for independence through a collection of photographs.
Nearby, the National Museum displays artefacts dating back to the Bronze Age Harappan civilisation. Meanwhile, the National Gallery of Modern Art serves as a repository of India’s finest modern and contemporary artworks, ranging from the colonial era to the present day.
Go beyond the bustling city centre to the Mehrauli area of South Delhi and you’ll find the UNESCO-listed Qutub Minar. Standing tall for over eight centuries, this five-tiered tower stretches 73m into the sky and is fashioned from red sandstone inscribed with Quranic scriptures. It proudly holds the title of India’s largest minaret.
The towering Qutab Minar was built by the first sultan of Delhi after defeating the region’s Hindu rulers in 1192, marking the beginning of Muslim rule here (George Kipouros)
The towering Qutab Minar was built by the first sultan of Delhi after defeating the region’s Hindu rulers in 1192, marking the beginning of Muslim rule here (George Kipouros)
As you wander through the wider Qutub complex, don’t miss the chance to visit the Tomb of Iltutmish, a crimson-hued stone chamber adorned with myriad inscriptions, geometric motifs and arabesque designs. Another must-see within the complex is the Quwwatu’l-Islam Masjid, housed within the fabled Ashoka Pillar (Iron Pillar of Delhi) that has stood resilient for over 1,600 years.
After this, a visit to Humayun’s Tomb, a sublime exemplar of Mughal architectural prowess, is highly recommended. Often regarded as the trial run for achieving the architectural magnificence of the Taj Mahal, the tomb seamlessly blends Persian elegance with Mughal opulence. Its arched facade greets you with intricate inlays of white marble and red sandstone, while the entire structure reflects meticulous adherence to Islamic geometric principles. Although it is known as the final resting place of the second Mughal emperor, Humayun, this UNESCO World Heritage site also serves as the burial ground for over 150 members of the Mughal dynasty.
Finally, to bring the curtain down on your Delhi sojourn, head north-west of Humayun’s Tomb for a stroll through Sunder Nursery. This carefully restored Mughal park has well-manicured lawns, water elements, beautiful floral displays and is highly recommended. An oasis in the midst of the city’s hustle and bustle, it also showcases 16th-century Mughal mausoleums and pavilions, enriching the visitor’s experience with its abundant historical charm and botanical splendour.
Agra
A city created by love
27.1767° N, 78.0081° E
Agra’s most illustrious treasure is the Taj Mahal, a testament to Mughal supremacy executed flawlessly in ivory-white marble and completed with filigree scrollwork, floral patterns and Islamic motifs. Erected in the 17th century as a tribute to Shah Jahan’s favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, it symbolises eternal love and was once described by the poet Rabindranath Tagore as a “teardrop on the cheek of time”.
To truly bask in the building’s ethereal beauty, it is recommended to experience the Taj Mahal during sunrise (around 5.30am) and sunset (around 6.30pm), when the shifting light accentuates its pristine surfaces, creating a mesmerising spectacle. While the West Gate serves as the primary entrance for most Indian visitors, the East Gate is often preferred for its shorter queues and convenient access. Keep in mind that the Taj Mahal remains closed on Friday. For tickets, visit the Taj’s official website.
For a more serene Taj experience, away from the throngs, head to Mehtab Bagh – an expansive Mughal garden complex positioned squarely opposite the monument – before sunset. Alternatively, make your way to an abandoned watchtower nestled amid the sandy expanse at the eastern periphery of the Taj Mahal. This offers a vantage point for a sunset panorama of the monument, and is a spot that remains undiscovered by many.
For an even more enchanting experience, reserve a nighttime tour of the Taj Mahal with a small group of just 50 people. This allows you to immerse yourself in the splendour of the Taj between 8.30pm and 12.30am, and is available only for five nights around the time of full moon. Given the limited availability and high demand, securing tickets well in advance via the official website
(tajmahal.gov.in) is highly recommended.
Visitors explore the mosque within the Taj Mahal complex (George Kipouros)
Visitors explore the mosque within the Taj Mahal complex (George Kipouros)
The nearby Itimad-ud-Daulah, fondly known as the ‘Baby Taj’, should not be missed either. Perched gracefully along the Yamuna River, it is a tribute to Mumtaz Mahal’s grandfather, Mirza Ghiyas Beg. What makes it stand out is that it was fashioned entirely from marble, and it has been speculated that it influenced the architectural blueprint of the Taj Mahal. However, its pièce de résistance is the exquisite marble lattice work (jali) on its windows.
Another icon here is Agra Fort, which once served as the epicentre of Mughal rule until Shah Jahan shifted the capital to Delhi. Legend has it that Babur, the first Mughal emperor, stayed in this red-sandstone fortress following his triumph in northern India. Within its stronghold, visitors can wander through numerous palaces, courtyards and pavilions. A must-see is the Muthamman Burj, a marble tower where Shah Jahan was confined during his twilight years by his own son, Aurangzeb. It is believed that the emperor could gaze upon the Taj Mahal, his magnum opus, from the tower.
As the Mughal era waned, Agra became a canvas for colonial influences. By the early 1800s, the city had slipped into the grasp of the British, emerging as a pivotal seat of their dominion for the ensuing century and a half. Remnants of colonial legacy resound in sites like the Roman Catholic cemetery, the Indo-Saracenic St Peter’s College and the Neo-Gothic-style St George’s Cathedral.
On leaving Agra, a worthwhile stop on the way to Jaipur is Chand Baori, a 1,100-year-old stepwell in Abhaneri, Rajasthan. Its 3,500 steps span 13 storeys and plunge 30m deep, and it is India’s largest and steepest stepwell. Created to conserve water in this arid region, function meets beauty in this Escher-esque architectural marvel, which captivates observers with the interplay of light and shadow on its intricate geometric design.
Jaipur
The birth of the Pink City
26.9124° N, 75.7873° E
En route to Jaipur, consider a brief detour to Fatehpur Sikri, approximately 35km from Agra. Founded by Mughal emperor Akbar, this red sandstone city briefly served as the capital of the Mughal empire in the late 16th century. Though it was deserted shortly after its establishment, Fatehpur Sikri remains a beautiful ghost town, seemingly frozen in time. Of particular note here is the Buland Darwaza (Victory Gate), which, at 54m high, holds the distinction of being the tallest of its kind in the world.
Beyond the meticulously carved entrance lies the white marble mausoleum of Sufi saint Salim Chishti. Around it the palace complex unfolds, showcasing a captivating blend of Islamic and Hindu architectural styles. Among the various structures, the residence of Akbar’s chief consort, Jodha Bai, stands out as the most detailed. Other noteworthy edifices include the five-storey Panch Mahal, which was the recreational quarters for royal women, and the Daulat Khana-i-Khas, which housed Akbar’s private chambers.
Inside the Maharaja’s private apartments in the City Palace of Jaipur (George Kipouros)
Inside the Maharaja’s private apartments in the City Palace of Jaipur (George Kipouros)
In Jaipur, a popular starting point is the Old City, which was painted pink back in 1876 to welcome the then Prince of Wales, earning Jaipur the moniker the ‘Pink City’. This unique hue not only adds to its aesthetic charm but also embodies the city’s warmth and hospitality. Hours melt away in the old walled quarter, as you spend your time peeking into hidden alleys and shopping at bazaars like Johari and Tripolia. The stalls offer a wealth of artisanal treasures, from meenakari (enamel work) jewellery to traditional lac bangles and colourful fabrics.
The star, naturally, is the City Palace, a vast complex showcasing a fusion of Rajput and Mughal architecture. The building is active to this day, with the royal family still residing in one wing. Meanwhile, visitors can marvel at the craftsmanship of the four themed gates found in the inner courtyard of the complex and gape at the royal artefacts – including weaponry and garments once worn by kings and queens – which are displayed in a museum housed within Mubarak Mahal.
Located across from the City Palace, the terracotta-hued Hawa Mahal (or Palace of Winds) stands as a quintessential emblem of Jaipur. Erected in the late 18th century, this palace boasts more than 950 latticework windows, almost giving it the appearance of a beehive. These windows – designed to allow gentle breezes to grace the inner chambers – once served as a sanctuary for the royal women, allowing them to observe the bustling life of the streets below without compromising their privacy.
To the south of the City Palace, an attraction of a different kind awaits. Jantar Mantar is an 18th-century astronomical observatory. This UNESCO World Heritage site offers insight into the methods of astronomers in an era that pre-dates telescopes. With its assemblage of 19 astrological instruments, visitors can marvel at the wonders of the cosmos and partake in identifying heavenly bodies without depending on modern technology like smartphones. And for Instagram-worthy moments, visit the Patrika Gate, which is adorned with traditional Rajasthani artwork.
Wandering the streets of Jaipur reveals glimpses of its magnificent architecture (George Kipouros)
Wandering the streets of Jaipur reveals glimpses of its magnificent architecture (George Kipouros)
For a break from the centre, take a trip out to Amer (Amber) Fort, a 16th-century palace complex situated atop the Aravalli range that commands a panoramic vista of Maota Lake. The fort is divided into four tiers, each boasting its own courtyard. Among its many highlights, the Sheesh Mahal is decorated with glass and mirror work, and the Jai Mandir (Hall of Victory) is adorned with finely carved marble relief panels that are an absolute must-visit to fully experience the fort’s grandeur.
A gentle uphill stroll of a kilometre-and-a-half from Amer will bring you to the 18th-century Jaigarh Fort, built by Rajput ruler Jai Singh II with the purpose of safeguarding Amer Fort. The two are linked by a labyrinth of subterranean passages. One notable attraction here is the ‘Jaivana’, once hailed as the world’s largest wheeled cannon. The fort also encompasses numerous palaces, quaint temples and gardens.
For memorable panoramas of Jaipur, venture to Nahargarh Fort, which sits perched atop a scenic hill. Constructed as a regal sanctuary in the 18th century, the fort boasts the splendid Madhavendra Palace, which is adorned with flower motifs and murals. Inside you’ll find the king’s residence, which is embellished with intricate frescoes, as well as nine identical suites for his queens, temples and airy pavilions.
Local craftspeople can be found across Jaipur, such as this lady making pottery bowls used in religious services (George Kipouros)
Local craftspeople can be found across Jaipur, such as this lady making pottery bowls used in religious services (George Kipouros)
A visit to Rajasthan’s capital city is incomplete without immersing yourself in its vibrant arts and crafts scene. For a space that spotlights craftsmanship from across India, stop by the Jawahar Kala Kendra arts centre. And for those with a penchant for hand-painted textile art, Anokhi Museum is worth a visit. It is situated within a restored haveli (or traditional mansion) and is conveniently located about a kilometre from Amer Fort.
Anokhi museum hosts an impressive permanent collection that encompasses traditional and contemporary block-printed textiles alongside finely crafted wooden implements used in the hand-printing process. Thoughtfully curated displays elucidate the various stages of printing, while revolving exhibitions delve into specific materials or printing techniques. Moreover, the museum’s education centre facilitates demonstrations and workshops catering to both enthusiasts and tourists seeking to deepen their understanding of the craft. For those inclined towards acquiring handmade fabrics, an on-site shop offers a selection of exquisite pieces.
For a more immersive experience, venture to Sanganer, about 14km from Jaipur. Renowned as a hub for the creation of block-printed fabrics, this town offers an opportunity to directly engage with Indigenous artisans and even try your hand at this craft within its lively workshops.
Golden Triangle Festivals
Jaipur Literature Festival
Every winter, in late January or early February, Jaipur transforms into a bustling hub as both Indian and international writers converge on the city for the world’s largest free literary festival. Over the course of five days, its venues play host to a plethora of music events, readings, and discussions. Attendees have the opportunity to purchase authors’ books and even have them signed. Moreover, the festival boasts a variety of stalls selling everything from food to exquisite handicrafts. As the day’s literary sessions – which delve into ancient and modern literature, poetry, politics, culture, society and numerous other topics – draw to a close, the evenings come alive with captivating musical performances.
More information: jaipurliteraturefestival.org
India Art Fair, Delhi
This four-day event – held in February every year – is a celebration of modern and contemporary artworks by both renowned and up-and-coming artists hailing from across India and South Asia. A diverse range of artistic mediums and styles, from painting and sculpture to multimedia installations, digital art and live art demonstrations, is on display. There is also a series of discussions and hands-on workshops facilitated by esteemed artists, curators and collectors. Tickets are available on the festival website or at the NSIC Exhibition Ground venue.
More information: indiaartfair.in
Taj Mahotsav, Agra
Taking place annually over a period of ten days in February at Shilpgram village (barely a kilometre from the Taj Mahal), this festival showcases India’s diverse cultural tapestry and Mughal heritage. Featuring captivating displays of Tribal art, folk music and dance performances, and an eclectic array of culinary delights from across the nation, this event offers a kaleidoscope of experiences. Added to the festivities is a fun fair with merry-go-rounds, train rides, games and a ferris wheel, ensuring a playful end to the day’s cultural experiences.
More information: tajmahotsav.org
Where to stay
(Alamy)
(Alamy)
Imperial Delhi
A hotel that needs no introduction. This iconic Delhi establishment has hosted movie stars, literary greats and even statesmen such as Mahatma Gandhi. Its elegance remains undiminished, thanks to its graceful marble hallways, Art Deco ballroom, pillared verandahs and a curated collection of more than 5,000 pieces of artwork from the 17th and 18th centuries. Do not miss the high tea in the light-filled Atrium café; it’s a quintessential Delhi experience.
More information: theimperialindia.com
(Alamy)
(Alamy)
The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra
With a location that overlooks the Taj Mahal – just 650m away – and a grandeur reminiscent of the Mughal era, guests will find the view here just as pleasing when they turn away from the windows. Rooms feature inlaid-wood furnishings, hand-woven rugs, teak floors and ornate lattice screens, all complemented by original artwork and headboards adorned with Mughal motifs. If you get peckish, the choice is between an Italian-concept all-day restaurant or a dinner-only venue offering Mughal fare.
More information: oberoihotels.com
(Alamy)
(Alamy)
Rambagh Palace, Jaipur
Once the residence of Jaipur’s last maharajas, today this Taj hotel welcomes all to its 19 hectares of grounds. Just a glimpse of the Mughal gardens and lobby – adorned with the scalloped arches characteristic of the Rajput architectural style – hints as to its past. Elsewhere, the Suvarna Mahal dining room is decorated in an 18th-century French style with grand chandeliers and frescoes. Rooms carry off a similarly vintage vibe, complete with tile-and-mirror mosaics, fabrics and silk drapes inspired by Rajasthan’s art and landscapes, as well as domed wooden ceilings. And if you want to learn more about the city’s heritage, the hotel is less than a 15-minute drive from the architectural marvels of Old Jaipur, such as the Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds).
More information: tajhotels.com
(Alamy)
(Alamy)
The Oberoi Vanyavilas Wildlife Resort, Ranthambore
Fancy seeing tigers, leopards and deer in their natural habitat? The Oberoi Vanyavilas Wildlife Resort, located on the border of Ranthambore National Park, turns these wildlife fantasies into reality, albeit with a dash of luxury. A private jungle safari in a 4WD vehicle is just one facet of the hotel’s allure; guests can also partake in guided nature walks, birdwatching or block-printing sessions guided by local artisans. And if all these activities have left you feeling drained, there are cures back at the hotel. Choose from yoga sessions, Ayurvedic massages in the haveli-style spa or a dip in the pool. As for accommodation, there are tented camps featuring clawfoot bathtubs, garden views, four-posters and teak-wood floors.
More information: oberoihotels.com
Getting there & around
Air India, British Airways, Virgin Atlantic and Vistara all fly non-stop from London Heathrow to New Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International Airport. Flights take around nine hours.
From Delhi, you can reach Agra by train via the Shatabdi Express at New Delhi Railway Station or Vande Bharat Express at Hazrat Nizamuddin. The journey takes around two hours. From Agra, its typically a further four hours by rail to Jaipur. Book tickets in advance at stations, via the government booking site IRCTC or with Make My Trip.
Currency & visa
Currency: Indian rupee (INR), currently INR105 to the UK£.
Visa: UK nationals can apply for an e-tourist visa online for stays of up to 30 days.
The trip
Wanderlust recommends India specialist Transindus. Its nine-day Golden Triangle & Tigers group tour includes a visit to Old Delhi’s Jama Masjid and the Red Fort, a drive through ‘Lutyens’ Delhi ‘, and trips to Humayun’s Tomb and the Qutab Minar. In Agra, guests visit the iconic Taj Mahal and Agra Fort, then continue on to Ranthambore for a tiger safari. The trip finishes among the forts, palaces and bazaars of the Pink City of Jaipur.
