An insider’s guide to Pnomh Pehn

Peter Jones has lived in Cambodia for eight years and is Tripbod’s Pnomh Penh guru. He tells you what you must do in this bustling, re-emerging city

Insider Secrets
10 September 2011

Pnomh Penh was the ‘Pearl of Asia’ during its 1965 heyday, and once again the city is busy and thriving. It’s 100 miles from the sea but is Cambodia’s – indeed the Mekong’s – largest port, with a brand new waterfront development that is a focus for much of the city’s life, with locals mingling with inquisitive travellers along its busy strip. Our advice? Get there before the next tourist invasion!

1. City Cyclo tour

Cyclos – sort of tuk tuks but with someone peddling you from behind – are the traditional way of getting around Pnomh Penh but they’re fading fast, with just over a thousand cyclo drivers on the roads now compared to over 10,000 15 years ago. Nonetheless a city cyclo tour is one of the best and most relaxing ways of getting orientated.

2. Friends restaurant

A non-profit restaurant run by street children to give them the skills and experience they need to move on to a better life.But that’s not the only thing that’s special:it also serves great tapas-style Cambodian food in a wonderful atmosphere.

3. Exercise at the Olympic Stadium

Like most Asian cultures, Cambodians are very into a spot of communal exercise and it’s fine to join in if you want – best at the Olympic Stadium, where you can pick a group and just follow the steps of the leader. You will almost certainly draw a crowd!

4. The Killing Fields

Located on the outskirts of the city, Choeung EK is the resting-place of victims that found themselves at the Toul Sleng prison – a sombre sight but a must if you want to understand the country’s recent history.

5. Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)

Once a high school, the site became the Khmer Rouge’s main torture and interrogation centre before moving inmates to the nearby killing fields. Again it’s not the happiest excursion, but not engaging with these places only makes it harder to get to know modern-day Cambodia.

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