How to spend 48 hours in the Isle of Man

As she led me down into rugged Dhoon Glen, a sheer-sided valley plunging to the sea, Manx-born Natasha Johnson asked me a question: “Have you said moghrey mie to the mooinjer veggey?”

I pondered briefly whether she’d gone mad. But after a quick lesson on local folklore, I admitted that, no, I hadn’t said ‘good morning’ to the island’s ‘little people’. I quickly did so under my breath, hoping these mischievous fairies wouldn’t curse my visit.

A ‘British Break’ to the Isle of Man? Well, if you were to quibble, it’s not actually part of the UK. In fact, this self-governing British Crown dependency is a magnificent outlier in the Irish Sea, with its own parliament (the Tynwald), language (Manx Gaelic) and – as I’d just discovered – a distinctive and often quirky national identity. All the more reason to pay a visit.

It seems not everyone feels that way these days. Despite its rugged good looks and curious traditions, the island has fallen off the map as far as most tourists are concerned – except for the many motorbike fans and racers drawn each year to the treacherous Isle of Man TT. Its late-19th-century tourism heyday, when holidaymakers flocked here, is long gone. Now the island has a reputation for being a bit old-fashioned – well, it does still have horse trams and some rather antiquated B&Bs.

However, things are changing. In 2016, the Isle of Man became the first entire nation to be designated a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, recognised as a ‘special place for people and nature’. It’s also set to become one of the first areas where the Wildlife Trust will start to restore and expand what is left of the British rainforest, a depleted habitat that now covers less than 1% of the British Isles.

Moreover, the Isle of Man is increasingly embracing more up-to-date tourism trends. The island, just 52km by 22km at its widest points, is something of a natural spa and playground. There are hills to climb, glens to clamber, roads and off-road tracks to cycle, waves to kayak, cliffs to coasteer, forests in which to bathe, cold water in which to wild dip. And when travellers do discover this new side to the island, they also might find that some of those so-called ‘old-fashioned’ elements – the enduring steam train, the slower pace, the stories of the little people – are very much part of the joy.

Day 1

Start your explorations of the Isle of Man by reaching the top of it. Grab breakfast goodies from Noa Bakehouse in capital Douglas then enjoy an unhurried trundle on the Manx Electric Railway (opened 1893) to Laxey. This valley-tucked seaside village is home to the world’s largest working waterwheel, where you can climb to its viewing platform and tour the mines underneath. This is also the base station for the Snaefell Mountain Railway; hop aboard to clatter up to the 621m-high island zenith, Snaefell. Enjoy the view then pick up the 11km Five Peaks Challenge hiking route along the north-east ridge, one of the island’s super summit walks. It’s a cracker, topping five of the Isle of Man’s biggest hills and offering the best views. Descend to pick up the Electric Railway at Ramsey or one of the request stops, such as Cornaa or Ballaglass (just stick out your hand!) – both are near Ballaglass Glen, a gorgeous spot for forest-bathing or an icy dip. Back in Douglas, gorge on Manx queenies – the island’s small but delicious scallops – at Little Fish.

Day 2

Another day, another vintage ride. Hop on the narrow-gauge Steam Railway (opened 1873), which connects Douglas to pretty Port Erin. The journey takes an hour, though you could hop off at Castletown to explore its well-preserved stronghold, built for a Viking king. In Port Erin, nip into the Railway Museum (free entry with a rail ticket) before hitting the beach. Explore the bay by SUP or go for a walk. The Raad ny Foillan (Way of the Gull) footpath loops the island, but its most dramatic stretches are around here. Follow the trail north to Bradda Head to climb Milner’s Tower. Or head the other way to reach the island’s wild southern tip; here the panoramic Sound Café looks over to the Calf of Man, a protected isle that is brilliant for birdwatching (boat trips are available). From the Sound it’s 2km to Cregneash. This old crofting community is now an open-air museum, giving a fascinating insight into a lost way of life. Either walk or get the bus back to Port Erin to grab a homemade rhubarb fizz at Foraging Vinters and watch the sun set

4 top things to do in the Isle of Man

1. Hike more trails. There are eight different and varied summit walks, which collectively conquer 25 island peaks over 300m. There’s also 160km of coastal path to sample – try the 7km section from Ramsey to Maughold, which ends at an ancient church with an array of Celtic crosses, some of which are around 1,500 years old.

2. Spot wildlife. Whales, dolphins, basking sharks and seals like to hang out in the Irish Sea. Take a boat trip from Port St Mary or Port Erin, or keep an eye out from shore. Look for wallabies too! In the 1960s, a mob escaped from a wildlife park here; now 500-odd of these far-from-home marsupials hop around Ballaugh Curragh’s wet meadows.

3. Swim in the sea and in pools in the glens. Lovely beaches for wild dips include sheltered Port Erin, secluded Derbyhaven and sandy Fenella (in the shadow of Peel Castle). Or take a dip at one of the 18 National Glens. Glen Maye is gorgeous, with a waterfall plunge pool and a ravine leading to a rocky cove.

4. Learn all about the island at the free Manx Museum. It was founded in the late-19th century by passionate local campaigners who felt the island deserved its own national institution. They got their wish; now it’s a treasure-trove of Manx history going back some 10,000 years.

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