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CULTURE & HERITAGE

Discover the secrets of ancient Khaybar

Influenced by the desert's volcanic terrain in north-western Saudi, the oasis of Khaybar possesses a kind of Arabian magic all of its own...

Words by Sheila Russell

Today Khaybar is a little-known location, but once upon a time for those traveling through the Arabian Peninsula it was an important stopping point on the trade route known as the Incense Road.

It is one of the oldest areas of human settlement in Saudi, traced back at least 7,000 years. The layers of history combined with the magnificent landscape make it one of the top destinations for the modern traveller.

Located over 160km north of the holy city of Madinah, Khaybar was originally known by a different name. The earliest record comes almost 2,500 years ago around 552 BCE when it is mentioned on the stele of Harran (the ancient Mesopotamian city state, situated in modern day Turkey on the border with modern Syria and Iraq). This standing stone slab carved in cuneiform script was found at the temple and records the achievements of the last king of Babylon, Nabonidus. It states he conquered 6 oases and travelled about them for ten years. They are listed as Tayma, Dadan (AlUla), Yathrib (Madinah), Faddak (Al Ha’it), Yadi and Hibra (the old name for Khaybar). These were important as they formed the top of the Incense Road before it split going to Mesopotamia, Egypt and the Levant.

Khaybar is an incredible area, shaped by millions of years of volcanic activity. To the east of the oasis town lies the majestic Black and White Volcanoes. The most famous is AlBayda, a wide-open tuff cone, with glorious white pleats of rare comendite igneous rock, falling away like the frills of a skirt. Standing on the top of the rim, looking down into the vast crater below is a memory never to be forgotten. Sitting next to it is another white volcano, Abyad (the masculine version of the word white, with AlBayda being the feminine form). It is the tallest volcano in Saudi, reaching a height of 2093m. Visiting the volcanoes is possible with experienced guides. It’s an extreme, harsh but very beautiful area, far away from people and phone signal.

The fertile volcanic soil, moderate climate and important supply of fresh water flowing from the numerous springs in the oasis provides the ideal environment for growing dates. Hundreds of gardens surrounded by stone and mud brick walls meander through the low valleys formed between outcrops of rocks topped with volcanic basalt stone. The contrast between the verdant green of the date palms against the black and red rocks is spectacular, especially at dawn and dust. Occasionally this is broken up by one of the ‘forts’ where groups of homes were built up high to avoid the damp living conditions below.

AlNizar Fort is one example of these citadel locations, found near the AlRawan viewpoint. The remains of houses still lived in until the 1980s can be viewed from below when on the Khaybar Heritage Tour. Locals now live in the modern town south of the oasis where it is drier.

One of the most delightful things in Khaybar oasis are the little canals. Often less than 50cm wide they sometimes parallel the walled passageways, then disappear under a wall to feed a garden, only to pop out again further along. They are full of tiny fish that dart back and forth all day long. Much time can be spent watching them, it’s so peaceful and relaxing. Larger fish are found in the springs that feed the canals. Ain AlJammah is one of the largest and is a focal meeting point in the area. Here brightly coloured dates of all sorts can be seen at harvest time.

Evidence of ancient human activity in the area can be viewed all around. Thousands upon thousands of stone structures litter the whole area. Khaybar is known to have the greatest concentration of these mystifying creations. Built at various times from 7,000 years ago it is not known exactly why they were constructed but many have burial cairns within them. There are many theories and research in the form of archaeological investigations is ongoing. One theory is that they might have been built to be viewed from above by the dead. Another possibility is that they were ritual structures for the benefit of a deity or God in the sky.

Some are shaped like pendants or keyholes, running along huge pathways. It is thought that they are funerary avenues for the people who once inhabited these lands. Others are rectangle shapes and are called Mustatil (the Arabic word for rectangle). Recent investigations of one site further north near AlUla yielded a large collection of horns in what looks like a ceremonial offering. This indicates that northern Arabia was marked by a far more complex landscape and culture than previously thought. Best viewed from above this is now possible on one of the helicopter tours available in the area. Flying over these magnificent structures gives a clear idea of how impressive they are.

Khaybar oasis during the winter months when the weather is pleasantly cool enough to enjoy the surroundings is very special. A variety of events take place from November to March including art installations where the forts are lit up at night, along with performances by The Saudi National Band. At AlRawan viewpoint music from the Sound of Khaybar concert will flow across the palm gardens, a blend of ancient instruments and modern beats for a totally unique sound.

Most people go to Khaybar from AlUla, this is not a short journey, but worth the effort. For those on the road for the 2.5-hour trip there is a new Bedouin camp along the way, giving an immersive insight into how they lived, as well as offering travellers refreshments. Some may also wish to visit from Madinah direction. This is a shorter journey, around 2 hours.

Practical information

Visas

It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

Getting there & around

Getting to Saudi from both the UK and the USA is easy. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and once daily from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.

Local customs

To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

Weather

You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit the country is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime, depending on where in the country you are, and rarely exceed 30°C. The summer months between June and September can get extremely hot, with temperatures often north of 40°C. But, do as the locals do and head out after dusk when it’s much cooler!

FAQ

Is English spoken in Saudi?

Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

What is the currency of Saudi?

The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?

We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

What’s the time difference in Saudi?

Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.