Meet the locals: Why the reopening of Taiwan’s Alishan Forest Railway is so important

There are two moments I’m incredibly proud of. The first was witnessing the reopening of the entire Alishan Forest Railway line – a service that had been interrupted for 15 years following Typhoon Morakot in 2009. And the second was the reconstruction of Zhushan Station in 2023. Since I started at the railway in 2010, people had talked about the reconstruction of this station, which was just a tiny bungalow. And then it reopened – a glorious two-storey building with a roof shaped like swirling clouds. I love this station because of the sunrises. When you watch the sun rise over the mountains from here, there’s just this wonderful sense of tranquillity.

Alishan National Scenic Area is a great place for forest bathing. I’ve often seen deer here, as well as mikado pheasants. These birds have a blue body and a large tail, and they’re protected. My favourite walking trails here include the Shuishan Trail, which sits in the footprint of an old railway line. When the trains stopped running, they turned it into a walking route. And then there’s the Tashan Trail, close to Zhaoping Station, which leads to the top of Ta Mountain. From there, you can gaze over all of the
Alishan National Scenic Area.

My favourite season here is early spring, when the Yoshino cherry blossoms are in bloom. But there are hundreds of other types of flowers, too. Summers are also wonderful – the sunsets are beautiful, with all these fantastic shifting colours. But I also tell people to come in winter, to admire the sea of clouds hanging over the forested mountains.

During the railway’s heyday, locals started creating dishes specifically for tourists and the railway workers. Fenqihu Station became famous for its bento boxes because every train in the early days, whether ascending or descending, would stop here around lunchtime. Enjoying a bento box at the station is an essential experience for all passengers. But my favourite dish is the meatball soup sold by the vendors near Zhushan Station. A warm bowl of it always makes me happy! I also recommend Ming Xin Coffee Shop near Shizilu Station. Order a cup of coffee and just watch the trains go by.

A stationmaster once told me that Alishan is like a mother. It’s a railway that provides nutrients to those who live along the line so they can grow stronger. My favourite sections are the lower ones. The scenery is so different when you’re on these lower sections: you’re surrounded by fields, but you also get these magnificent mountain views. There are so many different landscapes to admire, whether it’s the betel nut trees or the bamboo and coniferous forests near Zhushan Station. And then you’ve got the railway spiral. The one on Alishan Forest Railway is listed in the Guinness World Records – it’s the world’s longest railway spiral.

Many people think railway workers are all male. When I joined the Alishan Forest Railway, I was happy to find so many skilled women in different roles. My first job was at Alishan Station, in ticket sales. I loved telling people about this part of Taiwan and how to explore it. Later, as a stationmaster, I faced many challenges: managing trains and staff, dealing with natural disasters. I’ve learnt so much from this. The sense of teamwork helps, and there’s great support for employees. This allows me to take care of my two daughters while working.