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CULTURE & HERITAGE

How to meet the locals in Riyadh

Riyadh is a city with a local and multicultural soul where the past, present and future coexist harmoniously.

Words by Palavi Kele

In Saudi, the value of hospitality is woven into everyday life where visitors and expats are warmly welcomed.

So much so that it is not uncommon for strangers to brew a friendship over a cup of coffee. Over the past years, I’ve made friends from several cultural backgrounds, relished cuisines from across the world and attended international events just a few minutes’ drive from my home in Riyadh.

The socio-cultural transformation has been phenomenal and there are several ways to experience this historic change first-hand. I recall a colleague saying, “You can sit on the street and watch the city change!” I couldn’t agree more. Interestingly, up until ten minutes to touchdown, you will only be treated to views of the sandy escarpment and will likely wonder where this city of eight million residents lies, until it gradually unveils its hidden gems.

Cafes and café culture

“There are so many cafes in Riyadh that everyone can have one to themselves,” jokes a Saudi friend. Coffee is such an integral part of the Saudi palette that 2022 was named ‘The Year of Saudi Coffee’ by the Saudi Ministry of Culture. From the nostalgic Seventies Café to the world’s biggest Al Masaa café, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Most locals socialise over coffee and dessert late into the night. Additionally, the city has witnessed a burgeoning brunch culture, adding a fresh dimension to Riyadh’s culinary scene.

Experiencing Riyadh Season

In recent years, Saudi winters have become synonymous with the ‘Seasons’. Following the launch of Riyadh Season ‘Big Time’ in October, residents can enjoy a line-up featuring several world class recreational events for the next six months. Experiences range from the cultural extravaganza representing over ten countries at BLVD World to immersive arenas like the Barbie World, art exhibitions and escape rooms. A season of sensory treats with several hubs spread across the city gives an ideal opportunity to interact with not just locals but people from across the globe. Nothing here is off limits and it can be anything ranging from an adventure recreating ’90s British TV show The Crystal Maze to a Messi 10-themed Cirque du Soleil.

Camping, Kashtah & contemplating the Edge of the World

The desert is very dear to any Saudi who has grown up in the Kingdom. “I love cruising into the desert and gazing at the stars. It’s as serene as the sea”, a Saudi colleague once expressed. Thus, camping and off-roading into the desert over weekends is a popular winter activity. Kashtah, meaning a little picnic in the desert with close family and friends is a favourite local way of getting away from the busy city life and socialising over tea, coffee and snacks. Another unique gateway, the ‘Edge of the World’ is a natural geological wonder with a drop of 300 metese. It is part of the majestic Tuwaiq escarpment which offers breathtaking views of the infinite expanse of what once was an ocean bed, creating an illusion of standing at the edge of the world. You can enjoy these experiences by joining organised group tours that drive you to scenic spots, host a campfire and live music along with barbeque and snacks.

Restaurants and the Najd Village

Riyadh is turning into a haven for foodies. From the classic Shawarma to gourmet sushi, the city’s gastronomic scene has everything to offer. Apart from standalone restaurants, there are several avenues and malls like Roshn Front, Via Riyadh, U Walk, Esplanade and The Zone that offer a variety of cuisines and shopping experiences along with cinemas and other recreational activities. These are ideal places to spend an evening for expats and locals alike. When it comes to trying out Saudi cuisine, Najd Village offers an authentic Majlis style dining experience where you can sit on the floor and eat with your hands. Restaurants like Aseeb and Suhail offer a contemporary Saudi dining experience and are popular for business meetings and social gatherings.

Cultural events and networking

In Saudi, business is built on strong foundational relationships. In line with Saudi’s Vision 2030, the fast-growing capital hosts several events to provide a platform for networking, collaborating and learning about world cultures. Events like the MISK Global Forum, LEAP and Riyadh Language Exchange are great initiatives to meet and socialise with locals. The Saudi Ministry of Culture and Heritage Commission organises several events like Saudi Handicrafts Week, Riyadh International Book Fair, FenaaPhone – The Evolution of Saudi Music and Paths to the Soul – Arabic Scripts and Calligraphy exhibitions to foster Saudi cultural understanding. All of these are great avenues to engage with locals and learn more about this fascinating culture.

Cinemas

A major shift in the entertainment sector was observed after the reopening of cinemas in the Kingdom in 2018. When at the cinemas in Riyadh, it’s customary to line up for buttery popcorn and cans of cola, the perfect companions for a cinematic experience. Don’t be surprised to find a 3:59am showing option when you search for movie tickets. The city has an intriguing nightlife that typically involves hanging out at coffee shops or visiting the malls to catch a movie until late at night or even early morning hours just before the dawn prayers. After relocating to Riyadh, I also learnt that ‘mall walking’ is an official form of exercise! With temperatures soaring as high as fifty degrees Celsius during peak summers, it’s important to get creative with exploring indoor workout options.

Whether you’re sipping on a camel milk latte in a quaint café or watching Phantom of the Opera, Riyadh presents a multitude of avenues to meet the locals and discover the essence of its fascinating culture.

Practical information

Visas

It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

Getting there & around

With plenty of direct flight links from the UK to Saudi, it’s really easy to get to the country. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.

Local customs

To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

Weather

You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September.

FAQ

Is English spoken in Saudi?

Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

What is the currency of Saudi?

The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?

We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

What’s the time difference in Saudi?

Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.