An insider's guide to Monterey County

California has deserts and mountains, ancient forests and deep lakes. And then there’s the ocean, the great Pacific, with its rugged coastlines and long beaches. It would take a lifetime to explore the wonders of California, but in some places, the best of the state comes together, and Monterey County is one of those. Within its boundaries are the redwood forests and hidden coves around Big Sur, award-winning vineyards in Salinas and Carmel Valley, world-class seafood restaurants in Carmel-by-the-Sea and Monterey, literary culture in Salinas and outdoor activities around Pacific Grove. There’s so much to see and do; it can be bewildering, but let us be your guide for 48 hours in Monterey County.

At a glance

Monterey County is located on the central coast of California, around 160km south of San Francisco and 320km north of Los Angeles. It covers around 9,770 sq km of land and water, and some of the most spectacular coastlines in the United States. Most visitors head to the locations around Monterey Bay: Pacific Grove, Pebble Beach, Carmel-by-the-Sea and Monterey itself. Nearby is Salinas, the county seat and largest city (although still modest in size). The main towns are all quaint and easy to explore on foot. But a road trip along the spectacular Highway 1 is unmissable. Highway 101 is a more direct route to the county.

If you only do three things...

Watch the wildlife

The seas of the 1,350km-long coastline of California are incredibly fertile and teem with a vast variety of fish, and the animals that eat them. And Monterey County is the best-known location in the state for watching the remarkable diversity of wildlife. Between December and March, some 7,000 grey whales head south through Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, although at different times of the year, you can see blue and humpback whales, as well as orca, in the bay. Playful sea otters can be seen from the shores cracking open clams, while harbour seals, sea lions and elephant seals bask on the beaches and islets off the coast. If you visit in October, visit the Monarch Grove Butterfly Sanctuary, briefly home to thousands of namesake butterflies.

Seek out sustainable experiences in nature

Nature – stunning scenery and abundant wildlife – is one of the key reasons to visit Monterey County. It’s why the region has some of the highest conservation standards anywhere in the world. Pinnacles National Park is a proud member of the California Condor Recovery Program (one of only three places in the country), as well as being home to 500 different species of bee – the most of anywhere on the planet. You can hike among its blooming wildflowers between March and May, too. Monterey County is full of wonderful walks, including weaving through the woodlands, waterways and salt marshes of Elkhorne Slough Reserve, where you'll weave beneath among 340 species of birds and the highest concentration of southern sea otters on the California coast.

Wander the museums

John Steinbeck wrote about what he knew. In his books East of Eden, Of Mice and Men, The Grapes of Wrath and Cannery Row, set in Monterey, he immortalised life in Monterey County. The National Steinbeck Center, in the author’s hometown of Salinas, looks into the worlds he wrote about. The region inspired other authors, too. Henry Miller lived in Big Sur, and you can visit his Memorial Library. You can also tour where poet Robinson Jeffers wrote some of his best-known works. Alongside the literary references, Monterey County is home to many museums, including the Carmel Valley History Center, the Monterey & Salinas Valley Railroad Museum, and the Agricultural and Rural Life Museum in King City where you can learn about life here in the 19th century.

Gastronomic experiences in
Monterey County

Wineries

Californian wines are known around the world, with more than 100 grape varieties grown on its fertile land. Monterey County has more than 200 years of wine-making heritage, and the key to its success is the unique geography of Monterey Bay. Its proximity to a deep canyon in Monterey Bay brings fog and moderate temperatures to the vines imbuing wines, including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah with a distinctive terroir. Today, there are 85 vintners and 65 tasting rooms to visit. Most are located in the Carmel Valley or the Salinas Valley. Both are easy to explore, and good public transport or wine tours mean you can enjoy a few tasters along the way. The wine culture in Monterey County is celebrated with events throughout the year, with May’s Winemakers’ Celebration the centrepiece event.

Farmers' markets

Monterey County is known as the ‘Salad Bowl of the World’, thanks to the wildly diverse terrain of the region. The heart of the farming community is the markets where producers present their lovingly-grown fruit and vegetables, and artisans sell breads, oils, cheeses and charcuterie. There is a long history of farmers’ markets in Monterey County. The growers here have a reputation for sustainable and organic practices, and today is home to more organic operations than anywhere else in California. Across Monterey County, you’ll find a farmers’ market almost every day of the week (see seemonterey.com for details), while Pezzini Farm Stand is famous for its green globe artichokes. And for more information about farming in the area, tours and some tasty produce, visit The Farm just outside of Salinas or Carmel’s Earthbound Farm.

Seafood

It’s no surprise that Monterey County should be known for its exceptional and sustainable seafood; look at the ocean. The bountiful richness of life in the depths of Monterey Bay has inspired some of America’s best chefs to open restaurants in the region to showcase its quality, like Coastal Kitchen and Chez Noir. Aubergine in Carmel-by-the-Sea has won coveted awards for Justin Cogley’s precise cooking with the seasonality of ingredients at its heart. But great food doesn’t have to be fine dining. Head to Old Fisherman’s Grotto or The Fish Hopper for Monterey-style clam chowder, often served in a bread bowl. Passionfish in Pacific Grove is a leading example of sustainable seafood restaurants. And why not enjoy an ocean view of where your food came from at restaurants including Sierra Mar, Nepenthe and The Sur House.

A vineyard in Carmel Valley (seemonterey.com)

Pezzini Farm Stand (seemonterey.com)

Restaurants like Coastal Kitchen have taken Monterey's seafood dishes to a new level of gourmet (Coastal Kitchen)

Where to stay in Monterey County

(seemonterey.com)

Hotels

There are endless lodging options in Monterey County, from luxurious hotels to historic cottages, cosy lodges and cabins, and some incredible locations for camping. The area has hundreds of hotels, including world-recognised chains, independent boutique hotels, beautiful resorts, and handy roadside motels. It can cater for tourists, business travellers and conference visitors. However, what unites all the hotels in Monterey County is the welcoming smile and the pride that comes from living in this part of California. Staff will offer in-depth local knowledge of the region, and will happily point you in the direction of an excellent coffee shop, their favourite boutique or the perfect beach.

(seemonterey.com)

Quaint lodges and cabins

The characterful lodges and cabins across Monterey County take pride in being destinations in themselves, not just a place to rest after a long day. You’ll find Victorian cottages, countryside retreats, lodges set deep in the forest, and guesthouses overlooking the ocean throughout the region. Some have a long and illustrious history. Cypress Inn in Carmel-by-the-Sea has been offering a Monterey County welcome since 1929 and was once co-owned by Hollywood actress Doris Day, while The Pine Inn Hotel first opened in 1899. Or imagine staying among the 20,000 acres at the V6 Ranch near Parkfield and enjoy a quintessentially Californian cowboy experience.

(seemonterey.com)

Glamping

Imagine waking up to the sound of the Pacific crashing on the shore, the aromas of the coastal redwood forests and the wonder of truly dark skies. Monterey County has some of the state’s most desirable camping locations. Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park along the Big Sur coast has two tent-only sites, sat above the McWay Falls and overlooking the ocean. No wonder they are often booked up to six months in advance. With a similar outlook to the ocean, Limekiln State Park has a campsite among a redwood grove and views over the water, while Alila Ventana offers luxury glamping deep in a redwood canyon in Big Sur. If you’ve hired an RV, there are plenty of fully-equipped RV parks, too.

How to spend two days in
Monterey County

DAY ONE: MONTEREY PENINSULA

Morning

Begin your day (after a coffee and filling breakfast) out on the ocean on a guided whale-watching trip from Fisherman's Wharf. Monterey Bay is a excellent place to spot whales year-round, with blue (May-October), gray (December-May) and humpback whales (March-November), as well as orca (mid-April to mid-May), frequenting its waters. Dolphins, seals, sea lions and sea otters can also be spotted, so keep your eyes peeled. It's little wonder that Monterey Bay has been dubbed the 'Serengeti of the Sea'.

Afternoon

For lunch, fuel up with Monterey Bay's classic clam chowder served in a bread roll at Fisherman's Wharf. Then it's time to explore the wider Monterey Peninsula with a visit to Pacific Grove. With its narrow streets and 19th-century cottages, this snug community shows that small-town America is still very much alive (and still just as charming). You can spend time wandering its vintage Downtown but this is a place that lives side by side with nature. You can trace a 1.6km-long boardwalk that snakes through the creamy dunes of Asilomar State Beach or tread the Pacific Grove portion of the Monterey Bay Coastal Recreation Trail. If you're in luck you might spy harbour seals and sea otters, either from the shore or on a kayaking trip if you fancy a closer look.

Evening

There are few lovelier places to spend a long evening than in Carmel-by-the-Sea. After exploring the art galleries and boutiques, head to the beach and watch the sunset across the Pacific. For a fine-dining Michelin-starred meal, book a table at Aubergine, or savour some local wines at Dawn’s Dream Winery, De Tierra Vineyards or Galante Vineyards Tasting Room.

DAY TWO: WIDER MONTEREY COUNTY

Morning

It’s time to pick up the car because we’re heading to Big Sur and California’s most dramatic coastal scenery. Jump on the iconic Highway 1 and head south to Big Sur. After grabbing brunch at Big Sur Bakery or Café Kevah in Nepenthe, put on your walking boots. Big Sur is where the redwood forests meet the sea cliffs and the ocean beyond. Hike the two-mile Pfeiffer Falls & Valley View Trail for a short burst of nature at its most spectacular. For a longer hike, head a little farther down Highway 1 to walk the 9km Tanbark Trail and immerse yourself in the redwood groves and vast ocean vistas.

Afternoon

We’re going to slow down for the afternoon and travel inland to the wineries in Monterey County. There are dozens of tasting rooms in Carmel Valley and Salinas Valley. There are more than 20 wineries in Salinas Valley, mainly along River Road south of Salinas. While many of the wineries of Carmel Valley are all within walking distance of each other, including Bernardus Winery, Holman Ranch Vineyards, and Joullian Vineyards, with others a short bus or taxi ride away. Guided tours can also be taken. Don’t miss a visit to the Farm Stand at Earthbound Farm for some of the county’s best organic produce.

Evening

If you’ve settled in Carmel Valley, Lucia Restaurant at Bernardus Lodge is a wonderful eatery set among olive orchards and vineyards. Another great option is to head to Pacific Grove to watch the sunset from Asilomar State Beach. If you are there in autumn or winter, you’ll catch the annual migration of Monarch butterflies at the Monarch Grove Butterfly Sanctuary. The town is also home to some of the best restaurants in Monterey County. Finish off your excursion at Passionfish, an award-winning restaurant and one of the leaders of the sustainable seafood movement.