Think you know Singapore?

1. Think Singapore is tiny and you can see it all in a day or two?

Think again

There’s no denying Singapore is small, but small doesn’t mean swift in Singapore’s case, and in many ways its size makes it more appealing.

For one thing, you can easily walk from one eclectic neighbourhood to the other. Spend a morning in Kampong Gelam for example, enjoying the colourful textile shops and Middle Eastern restaurants. Then walk north and you’ll be in Little India – a neighbourhood that feels entirely different, with its brightly painted shophouses and Hindu temples, where rows of stalls sell flamboyant silks, spices and flower garlands.

Because Singapore is a city-state offering a diversity of landscapes, it goes far beyond a standard ‘city break’. It’s also very multicultural – a mix of Chinese, Malay, Indian, Peranakan and other ethnicities, each one represented distinctly but melded as one nation. This makes Singapore extremely diverse: in its people, food cultures, religions and architecture – and it therefore needs much more than a few days to appreciate.

Think Singapore is all city and skyscrapers?

Think again

While it’s true there are lots of tall buildings in Singapore, it’s also one of the greenest cities in the world. A tenth of the land is given over to nature reserves, gardens and parks – linked up by 370km of ‘park connectors’. These connecting paths zig-zag all over the city – alongside canals, through parks and beside pretty rivers. There’s a coast-to-coast trail that stretches from west to east, as well as the newly-finished Round Island Route loops for 150km.

My favourite trail is the Rail Corridor – a 24km paved route engulfed in tangled trees and vines; a green vein running through the city. I walk, run, cycle and even roller skate along it almost every day and still find myself in awe of the nature.

There’s also a variety of wild parks, home to long-tailed macaque monkeys, wild boar and enormous monitor lizards. Hike the 11km jungle trail around MacRitchie Reservoir, climb to the summit of Bukit Timah Hill or seek out rare migratory birds and sleeping crocodiles in Sungei Buloh Wetlands – you’ll find it very hard to believe you’re still in a city.

Think Singapore is a fast-paced city?

Think again

Considering Singapore is the business capital of Asia, the pace of life is delightfully slow. In contrast to places like London, people walk slowly, take long and leisurely lunches and embrace the idea of community. There’s no litter and very little crime, which adds to an overall sense of calm.

That’s not to say Singapore is boring; far from it. There‘s a great nightlife scene, with live music, festivals and theatre performances happening all of the time.Craft beer bars are popping up all over the city, alongside natural wine and cocktail bars – many of which are ranked amongst World’s 50 Best Bars.

Still, if you are looking to slow down, Singapore is a great place for it. Spend a day at the Singapore Botanic Gardens, or find a moment for contemplation in the National Gallery. Yoga is everywhere now – including on top of Marina Bay Sands at sunrise. Or why not try Tai Chi in Singapore’s Botanic Gardens where classes are held between 8 am and 10am in the mornings? Strengthen your balance, relax and improve your blood circulation all while breathing in the fresh air of the greenery all around. 

Think Singapore is just one island?

Think again

Given Singapore’s reputation for being small, it’s surprising to learn it’s actually made up of 64 islands. The most well-known is Sentosa – the southern ‘Island of fun’ home to water parks, indoor skydiving and Singapore’s very own Universal Studios.

For a more quintessential island experience, head to Pulau Ubin, accessible by 15-minute bumboat from Changi Village. This island sanctuary is a teeming ecosystem, and you’re almost guaranteed to meet the monkeys and wild boar that call it home. Hiking and cycling are the best ways to explore, or head out onto the ocean in a kayak to meander through the twisting mangroves to Check Jawa.

To Singapore's south, you’ll also find St John’s and Lazarus, a pair of sandy islands connected by a footbridge. There’s no restaurants or shops, and little to do but swim and snooze in the sun – but that’s the charm of visiting. Neighbouring Kusu Island is even smaller, but its Chinese Temple makes its a popular place for photography, painted a brilliant crimson and turquoise.

Think it's all just street food?

Think again

If Singapore only had street food, that would be no bad thing. The hawker centres, considered the nation’s dining rooms, are one of the best reasons to visit. They’re a place where locals and visitors from all walks of life can find cheap and delicious dishes from morning to night. After all, who doesn’t want a bowl of laksa or prawn noodles for $3 (£1.80)?

That being said, hawker food is not all there is by any means. In fact, as of 2022, there are 67 restaurants with a Michelin Bib Gourmand and 52 with a Michelin star. Seven restaurants have made it into ‘Asia's 50 Best Restaurants’ and three are in the ‘World’s 50 Best’. Needless to say, good food is serious business here.

One of my favourite foodie neighbourhoods is Tiong Bahru, where coffee shops and cool eateries occupy the Art Deco buildings. Visit for brunch – any of the cafés would be a good choice, although I like Merci Marcel for its al fresco seating – before browsing the boutiques and retro shops. Don’t miss the market here either. Tiong Barhu Market is considered one of the best hawker centres in town and you can sample the famous chwee kueh (steamed rice cake topped with preserved radish), fried kway teow (rice noodles stir-fried with eggs, cockles and Chinese pork sausage) and tasty carrot cake (unlike western carrot cake, this rice flour treat is made from a white radish which is pan fried until crispy and cooked in an egg omelette). At night, grab a glass of natural wine at The Butcher’s Wife, then head across the road to Bincho, an underground yakitori and cocktail bar. Finish up with some hand-crafted ice cream and waffles at Creamier – then get ready for round two the next day. You’ll probably leave Singapore a few kg heavier, but I promise it will be worth it.