Paradise found: 8 island experiences in Thassos

Sitting pretty just six nautical miles from the Greek coast and set against a brilliant turquoise backdrop, Thassos is an often-overlooked island that offers a more tranquil take on the Mediterranean. Naturally decorated with pine trees, olive groves and mountains, this little island whispers stories of ancient Greece whether you’re wandering the old harbour, gazing at terracotta rooftops or exploring rocky remains from a time long ago.

Thassoss’ highest peak at 1,204m high, Mount Ipsarion, is swathed in pine, fir, oak and plane trees, where the only sound is birdsong, gurgling streams and leaves rustling in the breeze. There are paths for all abilities – hike to the very top from Potamia and spend a magical night on the summit at the Mountain Club’s shelter, and watch the sun set and rise over the Aegean. The wetlands below are part of the Natura 2000 network, a shelter for migratory birds, rare terrapins and tortoises. Cooler spring and autumn days are ideal for exploring.

Wealthy ancient Thassos was nicknamed ‘the Athens of the north,’ and you can seek out the fascinating ruins of its once enormous capital throughout the year. Start in Limenas, its modern replacement, where the Ancient Agora boasts ruins of temples and colonnades. Visit the treasures (including a giant kouros statue) in the nearby Archaeology Museum. Then, walk up to the Acropolis, a pine-wooded hill for views that deserve to be seen. Here, you’ll find the ancient theatre, foundations of several temples, a Byzantine castle, well-preserved city gates and a secret stairway that follows the walls back down towards the Ancient Agora.

In Limenas, local shops display an alluring array of handcrafts and goods produced in Thassos. The island’s goldsmiths and jewellers carry on a tradition that began in ancient times, when Thassos was famed for its gold. There are art galleries to explore, beautiful handmade ceramics and objects both useful and decorative in olive wood or marble. Other shops sell silks and clothes made with natural fabrics. And don’t forget to poke around the grocery shops for the local ‘raisin’ olives (throubes), dried mountain herbs and teas, honey, olive oil and wine.

Thassos has 56 beaches, and Aliki is one of the best for a lazy summer day. Overlooked by a quaint hamlet of traditional slate-roofed houses and a row of tavernas, Aliki’s soft sands and transparent sea are sheltered from the wind by a narrow, pine-wooded headland. Here, you can follow the path into another world altogether. It’s hard to believe, but in ancient times this dreamy spot was a bustling port, exporting Thassos marble, known for being the whitest in the world. Explore the foundations of pagan temples and early Christian basilicas, and on the tip, the half-submerged ancient marble quarry.

Set amid an arid, rocky coast, the natural lagoon of Giola glows an astonishing shade of blue, a sight so dramatic it’s accompanied by a myth of its own. Locals call it ‘the tear of Aphrodite’ for its shape. Others say it is a big blue eye created by Zeus to watch his lover; while some say it was here where the Sirens sang, trying to lure Odysseus to his death. Visit for yourself and ponder the tales that surround Giola: arrive early or late in the day, when the colours are richest, and immerse yourself in the turquoise water.

The mountain village of Theologos is immersed in its very own water world. The springs of Agias Vasiliki, located a kilometre to the north, once fed Theologos’ many watermills (one has been reconstructed into a café), used in pre-electricity days to produce flour, olive oil and beeswax before splashing over a pair of waterfalls, easy to reach on a signposted path below town. Go on a summer’s day: the waterfalls, immersed in greenery are so lush and bucolic you’ll be tempted to take a dip in the refreshingly cool water.

Fun and culture are embedded in Thassos’ history. In winter, the islanders join in an exuberant carnival in the mountain village of Potamia, with a satirical parade, costumes, dancing, music, free wine and sausages that continue into the early hours. In summer, Limenas hosts Jazz Nights featuring well-known performers, along with the Thassos Festival of Ancient Drama in the ancient theatre. The village of Panagia hosts a massive celebration with food, music and dancing on the 15^th of August, followed by the International Folk Dance Festival ‘Emerald Island’ in September, an unmissable-get together of dance troupes, costumes and music from around Europe.

At the day’s end, join the locals in Limenas for a lively stroll around the old port, then have a drink as the sun sinks in a blaze of colour and settle into a taverna for a relaxed dinner. Choose fresh seafood—Thassos’s pristine seas are renowned for lobster, squid and octopus—or tender, melt-in-your mouth lamb from the mountains, vegetables and salads with local olive oil and tomatoes bursting with flavour. Then, linger over a glass of the island’s wine as the stars light the sky above.